Copyright, 1912, by
McBride, Nast & Co.
Published, November, 1912

TO
MY WIFE

The acknowledgments of the author are due to the editor of The Travel Magazine, for his courteous permission to reprint some of the chapters which follow.

A. S. R.

Massy-Verrières,
France, June 5, 1912.

CONTENTS

CHAPTER PAGE
[Introduction][i-xii]
[I]Discovery[1]
[II]Palermo[17]
[III]A Night of Dissipation[30]
[IV]Cathedrals[42]
[V]Palaces and People[56]
[VI]The Plain of Panormos[74]
[VII]Around the Island[87]
[VIII]The Road to Syracuse[107]
[IX]The Harbor and the Anapo[123]
[X]Syracuse the Pentapolis[133]
[XI]Catania and Mt. Ætna[152]
[XII]Taormina[167]
[XIII]Some Mountain Vistas[178]
[XIV]Lights and Shades[192]
[XV]The City that Was[207]
[XVI]The Northern Shore[215]
[XVII]The Western Shore[233]
[XVIII]Addio, Sicilia![249]
[The Best Books on Sicily][265]
[Index][269]

THE ILLUSTRATIONS

The Faun[Frontispiece]
FACING
PAGE
Palermo, from the Porta Nuova[5]
Mte. Pellegrino and the Via Borgo[17]
The Musical Water-Seller[22]
The Wonderful Sicilian Cart[25]
Part of the City Street-Cleaning Department[26]
A Piece Bitten out of Coney Island[28]
An “Economical Kitchen”[32]
The Fried-Entrails Man[32]
The Holy Bambino of the Onions[36]
The Garibaldi Theatre[41]
The Palermo Cathedral’s Facade[42]
King Roger’s Sarcophagus[44]
The Monreale Cathedral[49]
The Creation of Eve, Monreale Cathedral[52]
Interior of the Cappella Palatina[60]
The “Church of the Vespers”[75]
The “Poor Man’s Promenade”[85]
The Temple of Concord, Girgenti[101]
Syracuse, from the Greek Theatre[115]
Queen Philistis’ Coins[120]
Ætna, the Greek Theatre, and Taormina[171]
A Taormina Water-Girl[176]
Taormina Knitting-School Pupils[179]
The Mola Pigs[184]
“Goats! Goats! Goats!”[189]
The Troubadours[200]
Messina—“The City That Was”[208]
Cefalù, across the Fields[217]
The Cefalù Cathedral’s Facade[220]
Solous, the City of the Rock[225]
“Five Minutes for Refreshments”[251]
Santa Rosalia’s Grotto[258]

VISTAS
IN
SICILY