My Dear Mrs. Torrey,—The place from which I write is a very pleasant and flourishing country village; the shire-town of Genesee County, forty-four miles from Buffalo and about thirty-four from Rochester. Here is your humble servant and correspondent “laid up for repairs.” This is, you may say, my first stopping-place since I left New York, from which place I am distant 418 miles. But I may as well begin at the beginning. I left home, as you remember, on Tuesday evening; breakfasted in Albany, dined at Utica, took stage immediately for Buffalo. We took our supper at Chittenango, which Dr. T. will recollect as the Ultima Thule of our peregrinations in the summer of 1826, and near which place we found the Scolopendrium. Riding all night we were at Auburn (a lovely village) by daybreak, and, passing through Geneva, arrived at Canandaigua in time for dinner. We reached Avon, on the Genesee River, by sunset. Here is a famous sulphur spring; and people crowd the dirty hotels and boarding-houses to drink nasty water. We reached the next considerable village, LeRoy, early in the evening; but our next stage, which brought us to this place, only ten miles, was two and a half hours; so it was about midnight when I arrived here, in a very pitiable plight, so thoroughly exhausted I was obliged to leave the coach and betake myself to rest. I was very unwilling to do this so long as I was able to ride, as, had I continued with the coach, I should have reached Buffalo early in the morning and in time for the steamboat, in which case I could expect to reach Detroit Saturday afternoon, making only four days from New York.
I find myself much better this morning, though weak, and so unstable about the epigastrium that I scarcely dare take any food. I have been debating with myself whether to go on directly to Buffalo to-day, and take the steamboat of to-morrow morning for Cleveland, or some other port in Ohio that I may be able to reach by Saturday evening; or to go from this place directly to Niagara Falls, which I could reach before evening, and remain there until Monday morning. I have pretty nearly decided upon taking the former course, as I shall save some time thereby. But I dread a tedious ride in a stagecoach. In either case I hope to have an opportunity of writing again to-morrow evening.
I met Professor Bailey,[33] of West Point, on board the boat in which I came up the river. He had called the evening previous, when both Dr. Torrey and myself were out. He informed me that the professorship of chemistry, etc., was now established by law on the same footing with the other professorships at West Point, and that the pay of all was increased, so that it is now equivalent to that of a major of cavalry; and more than this: he has been successful in obtaining the place for himself. The stage is nearly ready, and I must hasten. Did the doctor meet Mr. Herrick? I have been thinking that, as they do not know each other, the chance of their meeting at the Astor House is but slight. I must have given both him and yourself no little trouble with my expedition trappings; and if Herrick should conclude to stay at home after all, which is not unlikely, we shall lose our labor. However, tell Dr. T. that I will do as much for him whenever he fits out for an exploring expedition!
Cleveland, Ohio, August. 12, 1838,—
the 4th day of my pilgrimage.
Ere this reaches you, a letter which I sent to the post-office in Batavia, New York, will probably have come to hand. The coach called for me before I had finished, and I was obliged to take my portfolio in my hand, and finish, seal, and address the letter in the coach during a moment’s delay at the stage-office. I arrived at Buffalo a few minutes after sunset; stopped at a hotel not very munch smaller than the Astor House, with accommodations scarcely inferior. Learning that a boat was to leave for Detroit and the intervening ports that evening at eight o’clock I secured a passage. The internal organization of the Bunker Hill (and I believe the other boats on the lake are not materially different) is rather odd, but very well adapted to answer the purpose for which it is intended. All the boats carry large quantities of freight, and the whole space beneath the main deck is occupied by merchandise, and by the boilers and fuel. The deck is crowded with boxes, bales, and casks, many of which are directed to places in the far West yet so distant that they have hardly commenced their journey. The after part is occupied chiefly by a sort of cabin for deck passengers (equivalent to steerage passengers), in which men, women, and children, Dutch, Irish, Swiss, and Yankee, are promiscuously jumbled. It is infinitely better, however, than the steerage of packet-ships. The bow of the boat is occupied by a different set of passengers, viz., eight or ten horses, destined to draw sundry wagons which now occupy a very conspicuous situation in front of the promenade-deck. You would suppose there was no room left for cabin passengers. On the contrary, their accommodations, though by no means splendid, are really very comfortable and complete. They occupy what in a North River boat forms the promenade-deck, which here extends nearly the whole length of the vessel, has a ladies’ saloon entirely separate from the gentlemen’s cabin, and three or four private state-rooms for families. The gentlemen’s cabin is fitted up with state-rooms with three berths in each, and as there was only a moderate number of passengers I was so fortunate as to secure a whole state-room to myself, where I enjoyed very comfortable rest. When I rose, we were approaching the town of Erie, Pennsylvania. I made an attempt, while we were detained at the wharf, to get on shore to botanize: but time would not permit, and I consoled myself with the comfortable reflection that the dry and sterile gravely banks of the lake were not likely to afford me anything worth the trouble. We had a strong head wind nearly all day, so that our progress was not very rapid: the surface of the lake was covered with white-caps, and the boat pitched so as sadly to disturb the equanimity of a great part of the passengers. Indeed, although I was at no time sick, I found it the most prudent course to pass a large portion of the time in a recumbent position; and I was heartily glad when, a little before sunset, we came in sight of Cleveland. One or two passengers, destined for Detroit, etc., landed to pass the Sabbath here, among whom was Mr. Baldwin of Philadelphia, the machinist, a member of Mr. Barnes’ church, a very able and interesting man. We are both at the same hotel, and it being much crowded we occupy rooms which open into each other. I had a little time before night-fall to walk through the city (which will ultimately be a very pleasant place, and is now flourishing, but like most Western towns in a very unfinished state). The people show some signs of civilization: they eat ice-cream, which is sold in many places. I tried the article and found it very good,—nearly the same as what I might just at this moment be enjoying at 30 MacDougal Street, were I now there (as I wish I was), for it is more than probable that the notes of the peripatetic vender are falling upon your ear. Returning to the hotel I consulted the city directory, and read an account of the early settlement of this portion of the State, which is the famous Western Reserve once owned by Connecticut and settled mostly by citizens of that State, who brought with them the heretical doctrines and measures which caused the expulsion of the Western Reserve synod last year. But the evening is advancing, and I must break off; and hoping that the approaching Sabbath may be profitable to both of us and that you may be blessed with comfortable health and strength to enjoy it, I bid you good-night.
Sunday evening.—I attended the First Presbyterian Church this morning, expecting to hear Mr. Aikin, the pastor, formerly of Utica; but, instead, we heard President McGuffey of Cincinnati College, who is quite a celebrated man in this State.
Detroit, Tuesday noon.—I improve the first moment I could secure for the purpose to continue my letter, hoping to fill the sheet in time for the next mail.
On Monday (yesterday) morning I went botanizing, but found absolutely nothing. I kept near the shore of the lake that I might see the first steamboat that came in sight, and one was momently expected. It did not arrive, however, until eleven o’clock, and it was a little after noon before we were under way. The wind was very fresh, and the billows of Lake Erie would not have disgraced the Atlantic. It was, however, in our favor, and we made good progress; but for about two hours we had to run in the trough of the sea, so that the boat pitched and rolled sadly. At sunset we arrived at Sandusky in Ohio. The entrance to the bay is very beautiful. The lake is studded with islands of various sizes, all covered with trees, with here and there a house or a cultivated field upon the larger ones. It was dark before we left; the water was still rough. I went into the cabin and read until it was time to occupy my berth. I am not sure whether I told you that I had lost Bishop Berkeley. I left it behind at Avon, where I was too sick to think about it, but the driver promised me faithfully, for value received, to look it up and send it to the stage-office at Buffalo, where I may find it on my return.
I was roused this morning just at daybreak. We were just at Detroit. I established myself at a hotel, got my breakfast, and sallied forth to survey the town, which is larger than I supposed and most beautifully situated. As soon as I thought your friend, C. W. Whipple,[34] might be at his office I called to pay my respects and deliver the doctor’s letter. He was not in; but arrived in a few minutes. He is a good-looking man, but I suspect rather older and a good deal fatter than when you knew him. His black hair has a few silver threads mingled with it, but his countenance is youthful and most thoroughly good-natured. We had some conversation; then went to see Dr. Pitcher, but he was not at home: thence to Dr. Houghton’s house, which is entirely occupied as a store-house for the stuff collected in the State survey. It is astonishing what a prodigious quantity of labor Dr. H. and his companions have done and what extensive collections they have made. Dr. H. is not now at home but is expected to-morrow. We went next to the State-House, but did not find Governor Mason at his office. We looked through the building, at their commencement for a State library, etc., where we met some of the dignitaries of the State. We ascended into the cupola which crowns the building, where we have a most beautiful view of the town and region round about, the roads all diverging from the centre, the noble river, which we could trace from its commencement in Lake St. Clair. The people are evidently very proud of the prospect. By the way, I hear that the doctor’s protégé Dr. Fischer has been here, and has gone on to Indiana to astonish the people with his new fashion of blowing up rocks. He has performed wonders in this way between this place and New York. Whipple thinks they will have some place for him next winter. The university branch in this place has a vacation soon, and a public examination is now going on; thither we next directed our steps. I was introduced to the principal, Mr. Fitch, to whom they give a salary of $1500 per annum. I am informed that they employ no teachers or principals in any of the branches without first submitting them to a thorough examination. We stayed until the examination suspended for dinner, when I returned to my room, and here you see me engaged.—Sunset. After dinner Mr. Whipple called for me, and we went to see Governor Mason at his house. We were introduced to his sisters.... They live in a very good house, quite elegantly furnished. We stayed only a few minutes, all going to Whipple’s office, where a meeting of the board of regents was appointed to be held. It was known that there would be no quorum, so they adjourned until Thursday, when Mr. Mundy is expected back from New York, and a meeting of consequence will be held. I was introduced to Chancellor Farnsworth (who wrote me from the committee), Major Kearsley, Judge Brooks (Whipple’s father-in-law) and others. We all went to the examination, which was, as usual, very stupid, and as it closed we stopped in at the Catholic church—cathedral as it is called—and saw the pictures, of which there are several, some of them valuable. I was struck with a portrait of St. Peter, a stout Paddy-looking fellow with a heavy black beard and mustachios, bare-footed, lugging a pair of keys as large as he could grasp! We expect nearly all hands to go to Ann Arbor on Friday. All speak in glowing terms of the beauty of the location for the university. I had a few minutes’ conversation with Whipple as to the plan of buildings, etc., which satisfied me, but I wait for more information before I attempt to write you about the matter.
I am, so far, pleased on the whole with the prospects here, and think they are more promising than I had at first supposed. I must break off again, as I see Governor Mason has come, as he promised, to give me a call. I had hoped to conclude and fill the sheet ere this. I find that we had the fortune to come through the lake in rather slow vessels. There are several upon the lake which make the trip between Buffalo and Detroit in twenty-six or twenty-seven hours. These are large and really splendid boats, carrying little freight, with richly furnished cabins. I will try to arrange matters so as to come down one of these boats. To-morrow I hope to botanize a little.... Mr. Whipple has also asked me to take a ride up to the foot of St. Clair Lake. Now I have nearly filled this very large sheet, and it is so dark I can hardly see to finish. I shall look at the office to-morrow for a letter from home.