In locating troughs, follow the same principles laid down under [Feeding Floors]. Dig the trenches for the concrete supports and carry the concrete (mixed 1: 2: 4) to the necessary height by means of open box forms similar to the one shown on [page 36]. Use a spirit level to get the tops of these supports even. Immediately set the outside trough form, previously made with openings in the bottom board, to match the concrete supports. Provide a 2-inch drain hole, corked with a greased, tapering wooden plug long enough to extend through the concrete. Place 1 inch of concrete over the bottom, lay the heavy woven wire fencing so that it will extend up into the side walls. Tamp in the bottom the remaining 3 inches of concrete. Finish this concrete with a steel trowel. At once set in the sloping inside mold, built as one piece and without a bottom. Fill the space between the inside and outside forms with wet concrete. After the concrete is hard enough to bear considerable pressure of the thumb (usually five to seven hours), carefully remove the inside mold. No painting with neat cement (cement mixed with water) or plastering will be needed if the inside form is smooth. Do not take down the outside forms for two weeks. To make this same trough of suitable height for small calves or sheep, place around it a fill of gravel of the necessary depth. Two men can build such a trough in less than a day.
| Materials Required | ||
|---|---|---|
| Crushed rock or screened gravel | 1 cubic yard at $1.10 | $1.10 |
| Sand | ½ cubic yard at $1.00 | .50 |
| Portland cement | 1½ barrels at $2.50 | 3.75 |
| $5.35 | ||
Feeding Troughs for Hogs
Feeding troughs for hogs are usually built as a part of the feeding floor, according to the plan shown, and similar to [ Watering Troughs], page 74.
A Fire-protected Feed Cooker
Concrete is a first aid to the farmer in preventing fires.
The photographs shown here are of a wooden building in which a feed cooker for hogs and poultry is installed.