He loved to paint the city, and, besides his famous view of it, we find it in the background of his pictures. The Cathedral and the Bridge of Alcántara and the Castle of San Servando are perfectly distinct in the “Asunción” of the Church of San Vicente. The city figures again, though less clearly, in the magnificent picture of St. Martin (of Tours) dividing his cloak, an act of charity that certainly receives a new significance in this bleak, unsheltered Toledo country. And Toledo, not Troy, appears in the “Laocoon,” the only picture by El Greco that has a classical subject. El Greco, the Cretan, lived at Toledo for some forty years, and the charm of Toledo seems to have entered into his soul. His house was not in one of the smothered streets, but in an open space high above the Tagus, opposite the Synagogue of the Jews.[121] It has a cool patio with a floor of red bricks and glazed tiles, and four white pillars, with a tiny well near the entrance, and a grey wooden gallery above, resting on the pillars, and open on one side, so that in spring swallows occasionally enter and whirl round the court. To the right a door leads to a quaint, old-fashioned kitchen, with its immense open fireplace and seats on either side beneath the chimney. That El Greco, a foreigner, should have become the most Spanish of Spanish painters, was due no doubt to the influence exercised over him by this stern yet luring city of Castille. It is impossible to dissociate his colouring from the many greens and greys and browns of the city and surrounding country, the rust-coloured soil of the Cigarrales thinly covered with many greens that are not green, grey hill-plants, dull tints of thyme and olive, the shriller green of pomegranate and other fruit-trees, the grass sun-parched to patches of yellow. And perhaps it is not altogether fanciful to connect the metallic gleams visible in certain lights on the surface of the Tagus with the glazed effects so frequent in El Greco’s pictures, or even the ragged, wind-tormented elms by the river with some of his more extravagant figures. The city points upward like a grey sword; and whether seen in shafts and foils of orange light against a stormy sunset, or fainting and crumbling greyly beneath a relentless sun and sky of cloudless blue, it has the austere intensity that we find in El Greco’s work. Yet, as in the greyest pictures of El Greco occurs some relieving touch of colour, so Toledo is not merely a monotonous symmetry of brown or grey. A procession, white and gold and red and purple, passes through the narrow streets under a shower of roses from the balconies of houses gaily hung in white and red, red and yellow; or the bright colours of peasants’ dresses are to be seen against the ancient Alcántara bridge as they come in to market; or in some street of stifling, windowless walls that lead up to a line of blue sky by day, and at night to a ribbon of stars, comes a glimpse, through doors of massive ancient stone, of a patio of bright flowers—carnations, nasturtiums, geraniums—as one may find a picture of El Greco in some old forgotten Church; and beneath the yellow-brown walls and grey rocks of the city are gardens of fruit-trees, where in spring nightingales sing from pomegranates in scarlet flower. It is a city of continual surprises, not to be understood or appreciated in a single day or a single visit; it gives, like El Greco’s pictures, a strong original impression at a first glance, but its inner being, its softer moments, its true significance and charm it reveals only to a patient study. Its attitude is indeed that of reserve; it seems to be holding judgment on modern civilization. It represents all that is noblest, most individual, and unbendingly austere in the spirit of Spain.

INDEX

[A], [B], [C], [D], [E], [F], [G], [H], [I], [J], [K], [L], [M], [N], [O], [P], [Q], [R], [S], [T], [U], [V], [W], [Z]

A
Abenabet, King of Seville, [101]
Afforestation, [99]
Agriculture, [97], [203]
Ajofrín, [90]
Alarcón (Pedro Antonio de), [195]
Alas (Leopoldo) Clarín, [150], [193], [196], [197]
Alfonso, el Sabio, quoted, [98]
Alhambra, The, [89]
Alicante, [113], [114], [115]
Almería, [57], [113]
Altabiscar, Poem of, [62]
Altamira (Rafael), quoted, [22], [25]
Amadeo I., King of Spain, [43], [198-199]
Andalucía, [103], [128], [134-141], [186], [195]
Andalusians, [25], [26], [90], [140], [188], [190]
André (E. L.), [39]
Antequera, [137]
Anti-Clericals, [39], [40], [81], [199], [200]
Aragon, [26], [100]
Arenys de Mar, [104]
Arriba, [75]
Asturians, [26], [196]
Asturias, [196]
Atchuria, [64], [65]
Avila, [87]
Augustinians, [166], [181]
Aulnoy, Mme. d’, quoted, [20], [29], [52], [59], [60], [62], [239], [240]
Azorín. See Martínez Ruiz.
Azulejos, [132], [194]
B
Bacon (Francis), quoted, xi, [33], [34], [41], [252]
Barcelona, [88], [91], [104]
Baroja (Pío), [27], [93], [208], [209]
Basque Provinces, [50], [63], [66-79], [210-211]
Basques, [25], [28], [61], [62], [66-79], [209], [225]
Bayonne, [63]
Beggars, [29], [87], [126]
Béhobie, bridge of, [61]
Benavente (Jacinto), [27], [41]
Berceo (Gonzalo de), [39], [93]
Berenger (Remont), Count of Barcelona, [159-160]
Betting, [73], [74]
Biarritz, [63]
Bidasoa, [57-61], [65]
Bilbao, [60], [88]
Blasco Ibáñez (Vicente), [38], [123], [149], [152], [193], [205-208]
Böhl von Faber (Cecilia). See Fernán Caballero.
Booksellers, [172]
Borrow (George), [53]
Brigands, [47], [194]
Browning (Robert), quoted, [248], [249], [253], [256]
Bullfights, [38]
Burgos, [87], [158], [240]
Burton’s Anatomy, quoted, [88]
Butler, Bishop, quoted, [35]
C
Caciquismo, [23], [204]
Cadiz, [88]
Calderón de la Barca (Pedro), [32], [55], [227]
Cambridge, [165]
Camões (Luiz), quoted, [25], [26], [251]
Cantabria, [63], [223-238]
Cardeña, [139]
Carlists, [76], [78], [81], [84], [210], [211], [223], [230]
Carranza, Archbishop, [165], [169], [170]
Cartagena, [116]
Castejon, [158]
Castelar (Emilio), [149], [198]
Castilian language, viii, [24], [163], [181], [193], [202], [212], [221], [222], [237], [239-243], [245]
Castilians, [26], [93], [94], [95], [96], 212 [251]
Castille, [48], [54], [66], [92-96], [232], [246]
Castro (León de), [166], [167], [168], [173]
Catalan language, [241]
Catalans, [26], [34], [79]
Catalonia, [104-107]
Celestina, La, [144]
Cervantes, [48], [146], [147], [182], [227], [237], [241], [242], [246]
“Don Quixote,” [28], [88], [139], [146], [185], [240], [242], [245]
Don Quixote, [30], [151], [207]
Sancho, [27], [33], [40], [54], [242]
Charlemagne, [62]
Church in Spain, the, [39], [40], [200], [201], [245-246], [249]
Cid, Poema del, [144], [150], [153-162]
Cid, the, [87], [102], [144], [153-162]
Clarín. See Alas (L.)
Clarke (Edward), quoted, [21], [239]
Clarke (Henry Butler), [79]
Claudian, quoted, [48]
Climate, viii, [37], [54], [93], [100]
Clovio (Julio), [245]
Coloma (Luis), [201]
Córdoba, [90], [101], [103], [140]
Cortese (Paolo), quoted, [18]
Creighton (Mandell), Bishop of London, quoted, [44]
Creixell, [106-107]
D
Dances, Basque, [73]
Dante, quoted, [26], [130], [241], [250]
Deshoja, A, [230-231]
Díaz de Bivar (Rodrigo). See Cid.
Diligencias, [50], [51], [52]
Dominicans, [166], [168]
Dress, [53], [54], [77], [106], [135]
E
Ebro, the, [100]
Education, [140]
Edward II., King of England, [63]
Eibar, [73]
Elgoibar, [73]
Emigration, [100], [203], [225]
England and Spain, [25], [63], [166]
Escorial, the, [98]
Eskuara, [59], [60], [62], [64], [68], [70-71], [76], [85-86]
Espronceda (José de), [149]
Estella, [81], [217]
Estremadura, [98]
F
Fernán Caballero, [185-191], [193]
Fitzmaurice-Kelly (James), quoted, [142], [143], [146-147], [185], [195], [215], [227]
Flaubert (Gustave), [192], [197]
Ford (Richard), [25], [36], [47], [51], [53], [253]
France (Anatole), quoted, [30]
Francis of Assisi, Saint, [241]
Francis I., King of France, [57]
Fuenterrabía, [58], [62], [63], [85-86]
Fueros, [76], [78], [79]
Funeral offerings, [75]
G
Galicia, [214-221]
Gallegos, [25], [26], [214], [216], [220]
Ganivet (Ángel), [22]
Gallipienzo, [83]
Gasset (Rafael), [99]
Gautier (Théophile), quoted, [254], [256]
Generalife, the, [89]
Gibraltar, [207]
Giralda, the, [126], [133], [188]
Gómez de Baquero (E.), [201]
Góngoray Argote (Luis), [148]
Goya [Francisco Goya y Lucientes], [192]
Granada, [88-89]
Grao, El, [115], [205]
Grazalema, [136], [137]
Greco, El, [208], [243], [244-258]
Guadalete, the, [137]
Guadalquivir, the, [133], [140]
Guernica, [76]
Guernicaco Arbola, [76], [77]
Guipúzcoa, [64], [67], [68], [78]
H
Hendaye, [59]
Heresy, [38], [172], [173]
Horace, quoted, [71]
Houses, [21]
Huerta, the Valencian, [115-116], [121], [122], [124], [161], [205]
Hugo (Victor), quoted, [47], [49], [57], [114], [115]
Hurtado de Mendoza (Diego), [145]
I
Ibiza, [205], [206]
Idearium Español, [22]
Île des Faisans, [60]
Inns, [52], [140-141]
Inquisition, the, [34], [38], [39], [147], [148], [168-184], [246]
Inscriptions, [58], [60], [61], [64], [67], [77-78]
Irrigation, [98], [99], [121-124]
Irun, [62], [73], [198]
Isabel II., Queen of Spain, [187], [188], [198]
J
James I., King of Aragon, quoted, [26], [31]
Jews, [167], [176]
Jijona, [102]
Jimena, wife of El Cid, [157], [158], [160]
Johnson (Samuel), quoted, [47]
Joseph, King of Spain, [42]
Juan Manuel, Infante, quoted, [101]
K
Kipling (Rudyard), quoted, [50]
L
La Rhune, [64]
Larramendi (Manuel de), [72], [74]
Lazarillo de Tormes, [144], [145], [150], [202]
León, [48], [87], [90]
—— (Luis de), [148], [149], [151], [163-184]
—— (Ricardo), [23], [24], [94], [211], [212], [242-243]
Longfellow (H. W.), quoted, [52], [92]
Loti (Pierre) [Julien Viaud], [73], [74]
Louis XIV., King of France, [60], [64]
Lumbier, [83]
M
Madrid, [99], [198], [202], [203], [207], [228], [231], [232]
Maeztu (Ramiro de), quoted, [36]
Makhilas, [77]
Málaga, [137], [138]
Mallada (Lucas), quoted, [22]
Manrique (Jorge), [251]
Marbot, General, [61]
——, quoted, [18]
Mariana (Juan de), [37], [70]
Martial, quoted, [26], [54], [100]
Martínez Ruiz (J.), Azorín, [22], [89-90], [94-96], [193], [208], [209]
Masdeu, quoted, [19]
Menéndez y Pelayo (Marcelino), [151], [192]
Montaña, La, [26], [223], [226], [228-238]
Montano (Arias), [173]
Montoro, [140]
Moors in Spain, the, [26], [31], [86], [101], [161], [246]
Murcia, [90], [114]
Murillo (Bartolomé Esteban), [249]
Mystics, [148], [149], [192], [193], [194], [242]
N
Napier (Sir W.), Lieut.-General, quoted, [17], [18], [26], [64]
Napoleon, [42], [61]
Narváez (Ramón María), General, [30]
Navarre, [80-84]
Navarrese, [26], [83]
Norias, [108-109]
Novels, ix, [144], [151], [185-238], [241]
O
Ocaña, [90]
Ondarrabia, [85], [86]
Oranges, Court of, [90], [126]
Oropesa, [108-111]
Oviedo, [197]
Ox-carts, [74]
Oxford, [165]
P
Pacheco (Francisco), [245]
Palacio Valdés (Armando), [88], [193], [195-196], [200]
Papal authority in Spain, [146], [147], [183]
Pardo Bazán (Emilia), [185], [205], [214-217], [222]
Parish Priests, [76], [215], [233], [236]
Pascal (Blaise), [148], [171]
Pastorales, Basque, [69-70]
Patios, viii, [54], [88], [90], [131], [133], [189], [256]
Peasants, [71], [82], [83], [94], [100], [110], [120-124], [135],

[140], [141], [205], [215-216], [226-227], [229-230], [240]
Pelota, Basque, [73], [74]
Peninsular War, the, [17], [64], [65], [81]
Pepys (Samuel), quoted, [19], [25], [39], [44]
Pereda (José María de), [40], [91], [151], [152], [189], [190], [191], [193], [222-238], [242]
Pérez Galdós (Benito), [24], [29], [30], [35], [37], [150], [191], [192], [193], [197], [204], [223], [242]
Péroz, Colonel, [61]
Philip II., King of Spain, [165], [246], [248]
Philip IV., King of Spain, [60]
Picón (Jacinto Octavio), [201-202]
Pilgrims, [61], [62], [76], [147]
Pino, [138]
Place-names, [64], [65], [68], [78], [85], [86]
Politics, [28], [35], [212]
Pomponius Mela, quoted, [86]
Post, [56], [59]
Prim (Juan), General, Conde de Reus, [198]
Processions, [87], [127], [133]
Proverbs, ix, [26], [28], [29], [32], [33], [34], [35], [36], [39], [40], [63], [69], [72], [79], [93], [121], [145]
Q
Quevedo [Francisco Gómez de Quevedo y Villegas], [29], [39], [144], [148], [150], [242]
R
Reclus (Elisée), quoted, [21]
Religion, [38], [39], [40], [44], [76], [80], [147], [200]
Roads, [50], [51], [52]
Romayquia, Queen, [101]
Roncesvalles, [62]
Ruiz (Juan), [39], [142], [150]
S
Sagunto, [160]
Saint-Jean-de-Luz, [57], [60], [62], [64], [78]
Saint-Pée, [78]
Salamanca, [87], [164-168], [173-175], [181-183]
Sánchez (Tomás Antonio), [154]
San Feliú de Guixols, [104]
Sanguesa, [84]
San Sebastian, [63]
Sansol, [83]
Santa Cruz (Manuel), [210], [211]
Santander, [91], [224], [232-233]
Santiago de Compostella, [61], [62]
Santillana, Marqués de [Iñigo López de Mendoza], [142], [143]
San Vicente, [107]
Sare, [64], [78]
Scaliger, quoted, [60]
Scott (Sir Walter), [185]
Segovia, [87]
Serenos, [111], [188]
Seville, [88], [90], [125-133], [187], [188]
Shakespeare, quoted, [29], [41], [149], [246]
Sierra de Jaen, [139]
Sierra Nevada, [117], [118], [138], [139], [141]
Sitges, [106]
Smuggling, [57], [58], [77], [205]
Socialism, [27]
Socoa, [65]
Song of Solomon, the, [166], [175]
Sorolla (Joaquín), [205]
Stendhal [Henri Beyle], [189], [192]
Strabo, quoted, [98]
T
Tagus, the, [54], [161], [202-203]
Talavera, [90]
Tannenberg (Boris de), [151], [223], [237]
Tarifa, [118]
Tarragona, [107]
Teresa, Santa, [25], [148], [183]
Theotocopuli (Dominico). See Greco.
Threshing, [72], [82]
Ticknor (George), quoted, 52 [149], [163]
Tiepolo (Paolo), quoted, [19]
Tintoretto, [255]
Titian, [245], [254]
Toledo, [87], [90], [91], [155], [240], [244-258]
Torrevieja, [113-114]
Townsend (Joseph), quoted, [31]
Translations, [241-242]
Travelling, [47-56]
Turroneros, [102]
U
Unamuno (Miguel de), [212]
Urrobi, [81]
Urrugne, [61]
Usury, [95], [100], [203], [217]
V
Valencia, [90], [91], [115], [120], [160], [161], [205], [206]
Valencia Island, [86]
Valencians, [25], [26], [122]
Valera (Juan), [150], [191], [193-195], [212], [242]
Valle-Inclán (Ramón del), [205], [208], [210], [211], [217-221], [242-243]
Vega (Lope Félix de), [33], [149]
Velázquez [Diego Velázquez de Silva], [60], [144], [248], [253], [254]
Vera, [58], [64], [78]
Vézinet (F.), [214]
Villages, [48], [80], [83], [92], [94], [100], [107], [135], [138], [229]
Villanueva y Geltrú, [106]
Vinson (Julien), [71]
Vizcaya, [60], [63], [68], [76], [78]
Voltaire, quoted, [73]
Vulgate, the, [166], [167], [176-177]
W
Webster (Wentworth), [71]
Wellington, the Duke of, [17], [78]
Whale-fishing, [63], [225]
Witches, [231]
Women, influence of, [40]
Wordsworth (William), quoted, [76], [77]
Wynn (Sir R.), quoted, [30], [60]
Z
Zagal, the, [51]
Zola (Émile), [207], [222], [238]

THE SPANISH SERIES.

Edited by ALBERT F. CALVERT.

A Series dealing with the Arts of Spain.