At the moment we left the state house, he found himself in the midst of eight hundred children from the public schools, who presented him with a gold medal on which was inscribed, “The Children of Hartford to Lafayette, September 4, 1824.”
After passing through several streets strewn with flowers, we arrived at the institution for the deaf and dumb. About sixty of these young unfortunates arranged in a line, awaited in the profound and eternal silence which the lamentable caprice of nature had imposed on them, for the arrival of Lafayette. As soon as they saw him, they pointed out to him, while placing their hands on their hearts, a legend containing these words, “What the nation expresses we feel.” At their head was their teacher Mr. Clerc, pupil of the Abbe Sicard and of Massieu.
Lafayette experienced lively pleasure in seeing this young Frenchman, whose love of liberty and of humanity had brought him to this country, where he had rendered the most important services.
When General Lafayette had reviewed the troops, under command of Colonel Johnson, and taken leave of the magistrates and inhabitants of Hartford, he was conducted on board of the steam-boat Oliver Ellsworth, by a detachment of an hundred revolutionary veterans, preceded by the military band. After taking leave of his ancient companions in arms, the boat pushed off, and we began to descend the Connecticut. This river which arises between lower Canada and New Hampshire, a little above the 45th degree parallel of latitude, serves as a boundary between this state and that of Vermont, and traverses the states of Massachusetts and Connecticut from north to south. Its course is about three hundred miles long. Although much obstructed by rocks, it is navigable by batteaux almost to its source, and large vessels can ascend it nearly fifty miles. During its course, it receives a large number of tributaries, and empties into Long-Island sound about thirty miles east of New Haven. Its banks are very delightful and fertile, though we had but little time to enjoy the sight. Soon after leaving Hartford, our boat stopped in front of Middletown, a beautiful little manufacturing town situated upon the right bank of the river. The sound of cannon and the acclamations of the crowd that thronged the bank, apprised Lafayette of the impatience with which he was expected by the people of Middletown. He hastened on shore to express his satisfaction, and it was not until seven in the evening that he returned on board the Oliver Ellsworth; so that night soon came on and hid from our view the beautiful dwellings which adorn both banks of the Connecticut. However we could form some idea of their number by the lights which appeared on the right and left, glittering like stars amid the obscurity.
At day-break we emerged from the river into Long-Island sound, commonly called the East River. We had Long-Island on our left, and the state of New York on our right.—Whichever way we turned, we beheld beautiful country houses or farms, the mere aspect of which announced comfort and abundance. Although the sun was but just risen when I went on deck, I perceived a large number of ladies at their windows, waiting for the vessel which they knew was to bring back Lafayette, to New York. As soon as our flag was perceived, it was saluted by the most animated exclamations and signs of the warmest affection.
While breathing the fresh morning air, always more so in the vicinity of the sea, and contemplating with pleasure, the delightful harmony of a beautiful prospect, and a rich and free industry, I was accosted by one of our travelling companions, an old revolutionary soldier, who came with us from Hartford, who said he could not sleep during the night, so much was he excited by the pleasure of seeing his general again. I asked him for some account of the most remarkable dwellings, which were in view, and he replied with much kindness, and in a way that led me to believe, that he was familiar with the navigation of the sound. When asked if he had occasionally visited Long-Island, he replied, “Oh yes, certainly, and it is long since the first time; it was in 1776, and without the courage and skill of our worthy General Washington, it is probable that this first visit to Long-Island would have also been my last, and my bones would now rest in peace. It would have been a pity, however, as I should have missed the happiness I yesterday enjoyed in shaking hands with one who has done so much for the independence of my country,” and a tear of gratitude and tenderness fell from his eyes. After some moments of silence, emboldened by his frank and cordial manners, I inquired in what manner his first visit occurred, with which so many other recollections appeared to be connected. He replied, by taking me by the arm, and turning round towards Long-Island, which like a moving panorama, was swiftly passing before our eyes, “in 1776, I was no longer a child, as my bald head and white hairs may show you, and served in the continental army; our regiment made part of the forces destined to defend Long-Island. On the 7th of August, the English and Hessians to the number of about 24,000, protected by the guns of their ships, landed upon the island. We had not more than ten thousand troops, and were in such a position that the greater part of these could not be brought into action. The action was hot and our resistance obstinate, although the enemy had every advantage over us in numbers, discipline and experience.
“The attack of the English was conducted with intelligence and bravery, but I dare say, if we were less skillful, our courage was not undervalued by our adversaries. In fact, we were soon surrounded, some were taken and the rest dispersed, leaving the victory in the hands of the enemy together with our two generals, Sullivan and Sterling. We lost from 1000 to 1200 men, and the English about as many.
“After this unfortunate engagement, we entrenched our lines at Brooklyn, where we were not in safety; fatigued and discouraged by our defeat, having in front of us, an enemy of superior force, rendered daring by success, and knowing that a numerous squadron was preparing to cut off our retreat by entering the East river, we felt clearly, that we could not escape complete destruction unless by the aid of Providence, and the prudence of our commander-in-chief; Washington resolved to withdraw us from this dangerous position. Profiting by the darkness of the night, he crossed the East river in person on the 29th of August, and found us in our lines. His presence re-animated our hopes and courage; we relied with confidence on his direction, and our retreat was effected with an address, which alone would have sufficed to rank him among the best generals. It is true that under these circumstances, Providence vouchsafed us a striking evidence of its protection. A thick fog enveloped Long-Island during the whole night; so that our movements were completely concealed from the enemy, although the atmosphere on the New York side was brilliantly clear. We passed so near to the enemy, that we could distinctly hear the labourers at work, preparing for the attack of next morning. Before day-break, our 9000 men, with their baggage, magazines, horses and munitions of war, had crossed the river, where it is more than a mile wide, and without losing a single man. An hour after our arrival at New York, the fog dispersed as if by enchantment, and permitted us to see the English entering our lines with defiance, where not a single man was to be found.”
During this recital of the old soldier, almost all our travelling companions were collected on deck, grouped around us, and the conversation soon became general. A great deal was said of Long-Island, of the elegance and richness of its country seats where the merchants of New York go to seek repose and fresh air during the protracted heats of summer. I learned that this isle, anciently called Matawack,[[10]] by the Indians, its ancient inhabitants, is 140 miles long, and its width varies from one to five miles. It is the largest island existing between Cape Florida and Cape Sable. The coast, which is washed by the Atlantic ocean, is flat, sandy and indented by various bays. The greatest part of its surface is level. The soil is composed of a blackish, spongy earth, upon a basis of sand which absorbs the rain and is little favorable to vegetation. Dr. Mitchill, the learned translator of Cuvier’s theory of the earth, has remarked that a bed of sea sand extends the whole length of the island at the depth of from 30 to 50 feet, containing clam and oyster shells, and that pieces of wood have also been found in digging wells. A range of hills which traverse the island from New Utrecht in the west, to the environs of South-hole in the east, is elevated at Harbour hill more than 319 feet above the level of the sea. Notwithstanding the unfavorable character of the soil, the finest orchard of fruit trees is found on Long-Island, perhaps in all America. It is cultivated by Mr. Prince, a skilful gardener and orchardist, whose enlightened zeal renders great services to his country, and who will without doubt, become very serviceable to Europe, as his correspondence is already much sought after.
It was about noon when we arrived at New York, General Lafayette hoped to re-enter the city quietly, but the streamers and flags of the Oliver Ellsworth betrayed his return; and the Franklin ship of the line which was at anchor, fired a salute of thirteen guns. This salute was a signal to the citizens of New York, and when we landed at Fulton wharf we found the population collected, as on the first day of our arrival, who accompanied us with acclamations to the City hotel, where we found our lodgings as we had left them.