Nearly thirty benevolent associations for mutual assistance, have been established by the different classes of mechanics, designated by the names of the society of master masons; of carpenters; of stone-cutters, &c. There are similar associations for foreigners, and their descendants, among which may be numbered the benevolent society for Frenchmen in distress, founded in 1805. That for the Germans was founded in 1801.
A circumstance well worthy of remark, is that of four great benevolent establishments in Philadelphia; there is not one which is not founded and supported by private donations or subscriptions, and managed by citizens who devote their time and attention to them without fee. These four institutions are the Pennsylvania hospital; Christ church hospital; the Philadelphia dispensary, and the lunatic asylum.
Most of the travellers who have visited Philadelphia, agree in this point, that the rigid manners and grave characters of the Friends, who are very numerous in the city, have produced an unfortunate effect upon general society, by impressing upon it an air of frigidity and monotony, which render it insupportable to Europeans. I can neither contradict nor adopt these opinions; for how can I form a judgment upon a population which I have only seen in an accession of enthusiasm and gratitude, which reigned in all hearts, and drew along with it the most serious, even the Friends themselves, after him who was the cause of the sentiment. It is difficult, however, to believe that society lacks charm and resources in a city where science and the arts are cultivated so successfully. The learned men who belong to the philosophical society, the medical society, to the academy of natural sciences, the agricultural society, &c. &c. the large public libraries, rich museums, numerous journals of all sorts, &c. ought to offer in this city sufficient aliment to the most active mind, and in my opinion may largely compensate for the absolute want of all the frivolities to which we unfortunately attach so high a price in Europe.
One may affirm that Philadelphia is the most regularly beautiful city, not only of the United States, but in the world. Its fine streets crossing all at right angles, its large and always clean foot pavements, the elegance of its houses, built of brick, and adorned with fine white marble, and the good taste of its public buildings, at first sight present a seducing view; but may eventually become fatiguing from their exceeding regularity. The plan of the city which was drawn by Penn himself, extends from the right bank of the Delaware to the left bank of the Schuylkill; this distance is about two miles long by one broad; two-thirds only of this space is at present covered with buildings, but new houses are daily erected, and I believe a few years will be sufficient to fill with houses all the space at present remaining unoccupied between the city and the Schuylkill.
Among the public buildings which adorn this beautiful city, we cannot avoid indicating the old bank of the United States, in Third street, the first edifice erected in Philadelphia with columns and a portico. It was begun in 1795, and finished in 1798. Its principal front is entirely of white marble, and resembles considerably the Dublin exchange, which is said to have served for its model. It is at present the banking-house of Stephen Girard.
The new bank of the United States in Chesnut street, the work of the American architect Strictland, is generally considered as one of the finest pieces of architecture in the union. It presents in miniature a tolerably exact image of the temple of Minerva at Athens. It is entirely built of white marble, brought from Montgomery county, in the state of Pennsylvania.
Perhaps, before ending this chapter, I should resume the description of the brilliant and varied festivities which the inhabitants of Philadelphia offered to the Nation’s Guest, during the eight days we passed among them; but a simple enumeration of them, would carry me far beyond the circle to which I wish to confine the narration of this journey, or rather triumph; and notwithstanding all the pleasure I should have had in speaking of the masonic dinner, the civic ball, the visit of general Lafayette to the arsenal, and navy yard, the party at general Cadwalader’s, &c. &c., I am forced to pass from Philadelphia to Baltimore, where the guest of the nation was received with equal transports of love and gratitude.
CHAPTER XI.
Voyage from Philadelphia to Baltimore: American aristocracy: Fort M’Henry: Entry of Baltimore: Description of Baltimore: Defence of the city in 1814.
On the 5th of October, received the touching adieus of the inhabitants of Philadelphia, and at 8 o’clock, P. M. we embarked on the Delaware to go down to Chester. We were accompanied by the committee of arrangement, a battalion of volunteers and a great number of staff officers. We arrived at Chester by 11 o’clock at night, and found the town illuminated; the hall in which general Lafayette was received and addressed, reminded him of a very memorable epoch of his life; it was in this very hall that the wound was first dressed, which he received at the battle of Brandywine. Before dismounting he still had the strength and presence of mind to rally a party of troops which were flying in disorder, and placed them at the entrance of the bridge to check the enemy, if he had conceived the thought of following up his first success. These different circumstances were recalled in a very affecting manner, by the orator charged to receive the general in the name of the inhabitants of Chester. After partaking of an excellent supper prepared by the ladies of Chester, we went to pass the rest of the night at the dwelling of colonel Anderson, an ancient companion in arms of general Lafayette.