The testimonials of affection both public and private, which the citizens of Baltimore heaped upon their guest, are too numerous to be all related; however I cannot refrain from stating the following.
The evening before our departure we had passed at the house of general Smith; whence we returned on foot accompanied only by two or three persons. Notwithstanding the lights which illuminated the street, we hoped to be able to pass through the crowd which was considerable, without being known, but the size and gait of general Lafayette betrayed us. He was recognized by some of the passers-by, and his name flying from mouth to mouth, brought the crowd immediately around us. Nevertheless we approached our place of residence, and were already rejoicing that we had not been too long delayed, when George Lafayette feeling himself strongly pulled by his coat, turned round and saw a most beautiful girl, who with her hands joined, and with the most touching voice, exclaimed “I beseech you to enable me but to touch him and you will make me happy.” General Lafayette hearing her, turned towards her and gave her his hand, which she seized and kissed with transport, after which she retreated concealing, her tears and blushes with her handkerchief. Such a circumstance, especially when it is not insulated, says more than the most skilful historian.
We visited in nearly all its details the city of Baltimore, which appeared to me to be one of the most handsome cities in the union. Although its streets are all very broad and regular, still they have not the monotony of those of Philadelphia. The ground upon which Baltimore is built is undulating, which gives to every part a character of variety: from several elevated points of the city, the eye can take in not only the whole of the buildings, but also a part of the port. The sparkling waters of the Patapsco, and the sombre forests which extend in the distance, seem placed there like shadows fit to bring out more strongly the magic picture of a city containing 60,000 souls, which has sprung up in half a century. The inhabitants of Baltimore generally have a decided taste for the fine arts. I have already said that it was to a Frenchman that they were indebted for their marked superiority in music, over almost all the cities in the union. They are also much indebted to a Frenchman for much of their good taste in architecture. Several of their public buildings are built from designs furnished by Mr. Godefroy, who resided a long time in Baltimore. The Unitarian church is a masterpiece of elegance and simplicity. The battle monument (by Capellano) is of a chaste style and fine execution. The Washington monument (by Mills) is considerably similar in its form and elevation to our column in the Place Vendôme, at Paris. It is built of beautiful white marble, and stands on a gentle elevation, whence it may be seen from various parts of the city, and it may be also seen from a great distance upon the water.
The harbour of Baltimore is safe and commodious; it occasionally happens, however, that it is frozen over in rigorous winters. Although two hundred miles from the sea, it is much frequented; the great number of navigable rivers which flow into the Chesapeake, makes Baltimore the centre of a very active internal commerce. Nevertheless, within a few years a very sensible diminution has taken place in the commercial activity of Baltimore, which is attributed to various causes. It is believed that these will be removed, or at least cease to operate prejudicially so soon as the Ohio rail road shall be completed.
Baltimore appears to me to be one of the most agreeable places of residence; its inhabitants although occupied ardently in all sorts of industry, do not neglect those studies which form the taste and enlarge the dominion of intellect. Several scientific societies exist there; one of them, the Newtonian Society of Maryland, formed in 1818, encourages with vigor the study of the natural sciences; the Economic Society, founded in 1819, is intended to forward manufactures and domestic economy. The Agricultural Society is not less remarkable than the others for the services it renders, and by the merit of its members. Before our departure, we were all three distinguished by being elected honorary members of this society. The cabinet of anatomy by Chiappi, (at the hospital,) the museum of natural history, the gallery of paintings by Rembrandt Peale, and the mineralogical collection of Mr. Gilmore, are beautiful and valuable. The city library is composed of about 14,000 volumes, and belongs entirely to the public. What tends to give a great charm to the advantages of the city of Baltimore, is its vicinity to Washington, the seat of the general government, which is about 35 miles distant; which, during the session of congress, offers great attraction to those who wish advantageously to attend to the political debates. However, at Baltimore, as throughout New England, Sunday is rather a dull day; religious observances are austere, though the most perfect liberty of conscience exists. The city contains at least twelve sects; the Catholics are the most numerous, and although thus superior in numerical force, the sect is as mild, as tolerant and as charitable as the others; because it is well known that it would meet with no support from government if it wished to intrigue and domineer as in some parts of Europe.
This city, so beautiful and interesting at present, was forty-five years ago, nothing but a small collection of badly built houses. In 1790, its population amounted suddenly to 13,500 inhabitants: in 1800, by the new census, it was found to contain 26,514: in 1810, 35,583: in 1820, 62,738; and in 1824, it amounted to 65,000, of which at least fifty thousand were whites, and eleven thousand free citizens of colour; the remaining four thousand were slaves. The numbers of the latter are fortunately daily diminishing: the progress of philanthropy, and of interest well understood, although slow, is nevertheless constant, and the friends of humanity have a right to hope that before many years the inhabitants of Baltimore will be disembarrassed from this pest of slavery, which might be called disgraceful if we were not aware how many obstacles have been surmounted to the present time, to abolish this horrible inheritance which England has bequeathed to the United States, as if to punish her for having broken her colonial yoke.
The luxury and the arts introduced into Baltimore, have not brought with them the effeminacy and corruption, which some persons believe to be their inseparable companions. The defence of Baltimore during the late war, sufficiently proves that the inhabitants are still, as in the glorious days of the revolution, passionate lovers of liberty, and courageous defenders of their independence. Their campaign of 1814, did them much honour, and pleads victoriously in favour of the militia system in a defensive war.[[18]]
CHAPTER XII.
Farewell to Lafayette, by the inhabitants of Baltimore: Journey from Baltimore to Washington: Entry of that city: Visit to the President: Description of Washington: Jesuits.
Our departure from Baltimore was as brilliant as our entry, but not like the latter enlivened by resounding acclamations of public joy. The troops paraded on the plain between the city and fort M’Henry, to perform some grand manœuvres in presence of general Lafayette, after which we were invited to a farewell dinner, under an immense tent, whence we could behold nearly all the points rendered illustrious by American valour during the war of 1814. Generals Smith, Stricker, and Harper, colonels Howard, Carrol, Bentalou and other veterans of liberty were present at this repast, during which a number of toasts were drank, among others was one paying to general Smith a tribute of eulogy and gratitude for his excellent conduct as commander-in-chief, during the late war. The modesty with which the veteran received this testimonial of esteem from his fellow-citizens, proved to us what generous sentiments are inspired by liberty and excellent institutions. He rose with vivacity, and in a short address replete with the fervour of feeling, reproached his friends for heaping their gratitude exclusively on him, while so many brave men had an equal claim to it.—“My plans and orders,” said he, “would have been unavailing, if my troops had not been freemen, and had I not been so ably aided by my worthy friend general Stricker. Cease then fellow-citizens to thank me exclusively, you cannot wish that a republican should appropriate to himself a victory common to all.”