The people of Connecticut are rigid observers of religious customs; but they have long since freed themselves from the persecuting spirit, which animated the founders of the colony, whose first ecclesiastical ordinance, on taking possession of the soil in 1637, was to refuse the privileges of citizenship to all who did not entirely and unreservedly submit to the formalities of the established religion. Now that religious liberty is secured by law, the reciprocal tolerance of the different communions has established a sort of fraternity among them. We had a very striking proof of it during the Sunday we stayed at New Haven. On arriving in town, general Lafayette, that he might not in any respect act contrary to the habits of the excellent people, from whom he had received so many affecting proofs of regard, expressed a wish to attend divine service. The congregationalists and episcopalians, who formed the principal communions of the town, immediately invited him to their churches; it was difficult to accept the offer of one without appearing to neglect the other, and the general answered that he would willingly go to both. We attended first at the congregational church, and afterwards at the episcopal; we found them all surrounded and filled by the crowd without distinction of sect; in both the sermon turned upon morals, without any discussion of dogmas, and terminated by reference to him whom God had so often conducted across the dangers of the ocean, to secure the liberty of America. These sermons were listened to with an equal respect by all, and on coming out of church, the two ministers cordially shook hands, mutually congratulating each other on the happiness they had enjoyed of receiving among them the nation’s guest.

The inhabitants of Connecticut have the reputation of being litigious, which keeps, it is said, among them a great number of lawyers who necessarily live at their expense. But I believe that this reputation has no better foundation than that which they formerly had of allowing their youth of both sexes to live in a state of excessive familiarity before marriage; and that both these inconveniences either no longer exist, or at least are considerably diminished by the influence which time necessarily exercises upon a population daily becoming more enlightened.[[6]]

The state of Connecticut contains within itself all the elements of prosperity; its fertile soil offers rich products, both of the vegetable and mineral kingdoms. Iron, lead, copper, marcasite, antimony, marble, porcelain clay, and anthracite coal are found in quantities in some of the counties. To give an idea of the number, variety and activity of the manufactures, it is sufficient to say that of a population of nearly 280,000 souls, more than 18,000 persons are constantly employed therein. Industry is indebted to Connecticut, for many useful inventions; among others for the following; Chittendon’s machine for making card-teeth, for the carding machines invented in 1784, and since highly perfected; this machine is set in motion by a mandrel twelve inches long and one inch in diameter, each revolution of which makes a tooth; it makes 36,000 an hour.—Miller and Whitney’s machine for separating cotton from the seeds. Before this invention, the cotton was picked by hand, and an individual could not pick more than a pound in a day; by this new method more than a thousand pounds a day are cleaned. The right of the inventors of this machine was purchased for 50,000 dollars by the government of the state.—Wm. Humphrey’s machine for spinning wool by water power; twelve spindles of this machine spin as much as forty common spindles. The right of constructing this machine costs a dollar for each spindle. The machine of Culver for clearing out basins, and removing sand-bars from the mouths of the rivers; by means of this machine the canal of the Thames has been considerably deepened.

Lafayette experienced keen regret on entering the state of Rhode Island, on account of his inability to delay his journey for an instant. He would have enjoyed much pleasure in revisiting places, which recalled so many of his youthful recollections.

In 1778, Lafayette was detached from Washington’s army with two brigades, to go to the assistance of Sullivan, who was endeavouring to get possession of Rhode Island, which the English had occupied since 1776. To render the success of his operations more sure, he waited for the arrival of the count d’Estaing, who commanded the French squadron, which having troops on board, offered the double advantage of cutting off the retreat of the British by sea, and of reinforcing Sullivan in the attacks he meditated upon Newport. But unfortunately a misunderstanding took place between Count D’Estaing and Sullivan, the French troops were not landed, and while Lafayette exerted himself to restore harmony between the two commanders, the arrival of the English squadron under Lord Howe was made known. Count D’Estaing profiting by a favourable wind immediately made sail to meet Lord Howe. Two days were lost by the admirals in manœuvring for the weather gage, and when, at length they were just about to come to blows, a dreadful tempest separated them and injured both squadrons so much, that one was obliged to seek shelter in New York, and the other hastened into Newport Harbour. Upon the return of the French squadron, Sullivan hoped to resume his operations, but the count D’Estaing informed him, that after having consulted with his officers, he was determined to sail for Boston; that his instructions, moreover, directed him in case his squadron suffered any damage, or should be menaced by a superior English force, that he should seek shelter in that port.

The damage that D’Estaing’s squadron suffered by the tempest, and the news of the appearance of a very numerous English fleet upon the coast, may justify his retreat to Boston, but his determination threw Sullivan and his army into despair. Without the aid of the French squadron it was impossible to count upon success. Her departure put an end to all the hopes that had been entertained. Generals Greene and Lafayette were deputed to visit Count D’Estaing and oppose his fatal resolution. They talked to him with energy of the glorious advantages which the French and American arms would derive from his co-operation against the English garrison of Rhode Island, which could not escape, and of the disastrous effects which would be produced upon the spirits of the American army by the withdrawing of an ally, whose presence had at first caused so much joy. They represented to him the dangers of his retreat across Nantucket shoals, with his ships in bad trim, and the advantages Newport possessed over Boston either for repairing his squadron or for resisting the attacks of an enemy, rendered daring by the superiority of his forces. They concluded by beseeching him not to sacrifice to little private quarrels, the glory and interests of two nations united in support of so admirable a cause. Notwithstanding the importance of all these considerations, the Count D’Estaing persisted in his resolution, and sailed immediately. Being thus abandoned by the squadron, Sullivan summoned the general officers of his army to a council, to advise upon the course to be pursued; whether to attempt to carry the place by storm, or to evacuate the island, carrying off all the magazines. The discouragement of the army caused by the departure of the squadron rendered the first proposal very difficult of execution; and the second was exasperating to men who had been so near to success. Sullivan decided on a middle course, and the council separated with a determination to raise the siege and retire to the northern extremity of the island, where behind their entrenchments they would wait the progress of events; this resolution was carried into execution the following night by Sullivan, with as much good fortune as skill. Sullivan once more turned his hopes upon the French squadron, and wished to make another effort with the Count D’Estaing. Full of confidence in the great influence which Lafayette exercised over all with whom he was engaged, he charged him with this delicate mission; Lafayette accepted it, but not without shewing with what reluctance he left his warlike companions, at the moment when there could be little doubt but that they would soon be attacked by the enemy. In fact, during his absence the English several times attempted, though unsuccessfully to carry the American post. These different engagements had served to raise the confidence of Sullivan’s forces. Lafayette was successful in obtaining a promise that the squadron would return as soon as all its damages were repaired. Every thing seemed to promise Sullivan the reward due to his perseverance, when the news of a reinforcement for the enemy of 4,000 men under General Clinton himself, placed him under the sad necessity of evacuating the island as speedily as possible, or of being himself blockaded. He prepared to retire with a peculiar degree of skill. The movement was about to commence, when to the great astonishment of Sullivan, Lafayette arrived to take command of the rear-guard. He had travelled the distance from Boston to Rhode Island, about thirty leagues, in seven hours, a circumstance almost incredible. Sullivan was highly gratified by this zeal, and gave him the command of the rear-guard; every thing was executed with so much correctness, that at two o’clock in the morning the movement was entirely terminated, and the American troops placed in safety upon the continent from Providence to Tiverton.

The thanks of Congress were presented to Sullivan for this retreat, and they also commended Lafayette as much for the sacrifice of his personal satisfaction, in consenting to quit the army on the eve of a battle, for the sake of the interests of the United States, as for the vigorous conduct he had exhibited in commanding the rear-guard.

From the joy which was on all sides expressed on our arrival at Providence, it was easy to perceive that the people of this country had not lost the recollection of Lafayette’s conduct in the trying times of the revolution: neither were the expressions of gratitude of Congress forgotten, as I heard them repeated by many persons, and beheld them inscribed upon all their triumphal arches. Notwithstanding the solicitations of the people and magistrates, the general could not delay longer than was necessary to take some refreshment; we then hastened towards the frontier of Massachusetts, where two aids of the governor of that state waited for Lafayette, with other carriages and a fresh escort. We met them at sunset. Colonel Harris, the governor’s first aid, regulated our march with so much activity, that we reached Dedham at eleven o’clock, and at two o’clock in the morning, we arrived by torchlight in Roxbury, a delightful village two miles from Boston, where the residence of Governor Eustis was situated, who waited for the general with eager impatience. In spite of the lateness of the hour, all the inhabitants of the house were on the alert, having the windows, avenues and the garden illuminated. The governor received the general in a frank, plain, and friendly manner, such as became an old republican soldier, delighted to receive an ancient comrade whose toils he had shared.

Two hours sleep made us forget the fatigues of the day, and rendered us fit for entering Boston in the morning. At day-break we were awakened by the sound of martial music; it was from the light infantry which was already manœuvring in front of our windows. The sight of the uniform of this company deeply affected the general, he could not keep his eyes off it, and exclaimed every moment, “my brave light infantry! such was their uniform! What courage! what resignation! How much I loved them!” At this instant the governor’s aid introduced a man, still young, but of a melancholy aspect; he carried a sword in his hand, which he presented to the general: “Do you know this sword?” said he. “I find at least,” said the general, “that it strongly resembles those which I brought from France to arm the sub-officers of my light infantry with.” “It is one of them;——my father received it from your hands: it has served gloriously in gaining our independence. He religiously preserved it in memory of his general, and would have been happy to have presented it to you himself; the day before yesterday he still hoped to do so, and this hope softened his last moments,—on that day he died. He has not bequeathed me wealth, but has left me this sword, which will be the most precious of legacies if you sanction his gift.” While he was speaking, the general had taken the sword and examined it with interest; he returned it to him immediately, saying, “Take it, guard it carefully in order that it may in your hands be used to preserve the rights it has so gloriously contributed to acquire in the hands of your father.” The American received the sword with joy, and left the room, pronouncing with tenderness the names of Lafayette and of his father.

Soon after, the procession which was to accompany the general arrived; the cannon gave the signal for marching. The concourse of people coming out of the city was so great, and so much obstructed the road, that we were two hours in riding the distance of only two miles. All the road was lined with troops on foot, and on horseback. The carters of Boston, dressed in perfectly white frocks, formed a numerous corps of well mounted cavalry. Sixty small boys, from twelve to fourteen years old, organized as an artillery company, and having two pieces of cannon proportioned to their strength, ran in front of the procession. From time to time they halted and fired a salute from their battery, and then pushed forward with rapidity, to take another position, and fire another salute. At noon we reached the suburbs of Boston. At the entrance of the city, under a triumphal arch we were met by the corporation; the mayor alone in an open carriage, stopped by the side of the open carriage of the general. Both rose to salute each other, when the mayor addressed him on behalf of the city. The calm and modest appearance of the general during the discourse, the fine countenance of Mr. Quincy, which became more animated as he proceeded in his address, the triumphal arch which shaded the orator and hero, together with the attitude and solemn silence of so many thousand citizens, offered at this moment to my astonished vision, the beau idéal of a popular festival, a republican triumph. After the general had replied, we traversed the city to visit the state house; during this passage, the evidences of the love of the inhabitants lavished on the general, were so affecting, that it was impossible to avoid shedding tears. In front of the state house, upon an immense terrace, whence the sea might be discovered at a distance covered with small vessels, was a long double row of girls and boys, from the public schools, all decorated with Lafayette badges; raising their little hands towards heaven, and uttering cries of joy. One of the youngest girls advanced towards the general; she was lifted up to his carriage, placed a wreath of evergreens on his head, embraced him tenderly, and called him Father. We then entered the senate chamber, where all the public functionaries were collected, the society of Cincinnati, the scientific bodies, and as many citizens beside as the hall could contain. At the moment the general appeared before Governor Eustis, who received him at the door, the national standard was displayed from the dome of the state house, and all the troops fired a volley. After the address of welcome was pronounced in the name of the government, and in the presence of the citizens of the state of Massachusetts, the scene of the New York City Hall was repeated; that is, the general was detained for more than two hours, by the expressions of regard from all who could approach him. From the state house we were conducted to Park street, to an hotel prepared for us. The mayor introduced us to our apartments, which were richly furnished, saying, “here you are at home; I hope you will find every thing that is necessary; if you find no superfluities recollect that you have been received by republicans.” These words of Mr. Quincy were doubtless very amiable, but I confess they made us think a good deal upon what the Boston republicans considered necessary, especially when we found that fine horses and carriages had been provided for our use, during all the time that we should stay.