CHAPTER X.
Cumberland River—Arrival at Nashville—Tennessee Militia—Residence of General Jackson—Shipwreck on the Ohio—Louisville—Journey from Louisville to Cincinnati by land—State of Kentucky—Anecdote.
On the 2d of May, at 8 o’clock in the evening, we entered Cumberland river, which we ascended all night, notwithstanding the darkness. This river, which is one of the largest tributaries of the Ohio, rises to the westward of Cumberland mountains, waters the state of Kentucky by its two branches, and Ohio by its main stream, which forms a great bend; it is navigable for about 400 miles. By daylight we were able to judge of the richness of the country it traverses, from the great number of boats, loaded with all kinds of produce, that we passed. As the banks of Cumberland river are flat, and sometimes swampy, from its mouth to the vicinity of Nashville, no town is met with on its shores; all the establishments are situated some distance back, and, therefore, we were unable to visit them; but many of the inhabitants came in boats to salute the general, this retarded our progress, as we were obliged to stop every moment to receive or dismiss the visiters.
Wednesday, May 4th, we remarked that the banks of the river were considerably elevated above our heads, and presented agreeable and healthy situations for cities or villages; at 8 o’clock no houses were, as yet, in sight, but we heard in the distance the sound of bells, announcing our vicinity to population, and preparations for some solemnity; a few moments afterwards we perceived on the horizon the spires of buildings, and on a plain at a short distance from us a dense crowd of men, women, and children, who appeared to be expecting with great solicitude the arrival of something extraordinary, and when our vessel came sufficiently near to be recognized, a joyful shout arose from the shore, and the air resounded with cries of “Welcome, Lafayette;” this was the salutation of the inhabitants of Nashville to the guest of the nation. This welcome was continued without interruption until we had arrived beyond the city, at the place for disembarking, where the general was received by the illustrious Jackson, who ascended a carriage with him to conduct him to Nashville, several corps of cavalry preceded them, and the procession formed behind them was composed of all our fellow travellers, joined by a multitude of citizens from the neighbourhood; we entered the city by a wide avenue, lined on each side by militia remarkable for the brilliancy of their uniforms, and their soldier-like appearance under arms; it was easy to recognise by their martial air, that their ranks contained great numbers of those intrepid citizen soldiers, by whom the English were overthrown under the walls of New Orleans. In entering the city, the procession passed under a triumphal arch, on the summit of which were these words, also repeated at every moment by the crowd, “Welcome, Lafayette, the friend of the United States!” Above this floated the American flag, attached to a lance surmounted by a liberty cap. After having traversed the principal streets, we arrived at the public square, which was decorated with thousands of flags, suspended from the windows; it was also ornamented by a triumphal arch, under which was an elevated platform, where the governor of the state waited to salute the guest of the nation. His speech was not only touching from the sentiments of affection and gratitude with which it was filled, but it was also remarkable for the truth and fidelity with which it sketched the actual situation of Tennessee, and the rapidity of its growth under the influence of liberty and wise laws. General Lafayette replied with that heartfelt emotion, and that happy choice of expression, which so often, during his journey, excited the astonishment and admiration of those who heard him. Forty officers and soldiers of the revolution, the most part enfeebled by age, and some mutilated in war, notwithstanding which they had assembled from all parts of the state to assist at the triumph of their old general, now advanced from the two sides of the arch, amidst the acclamations of the people, and showered upon him marks of affection and patriotic recollections; among them was one, remarkable above all the others for his great age, and the vivacity with which he expressed his joy; he threw himself into the general’s arms, weeping and exclaiming, “I have enjoyed two happy days in my life, that when I landed with you at Charleston in 1777, and the present, now that I have seen you once again, I have nothing more to wish for, I have lived long enough.” The emotion of this old man was communicated to the whole crowd, and there was a profound silence for some time. Notwithstanding his infirmities he had travelled more than fifty leagues to procure this moment of happiness. We afterwards learnt that his name was Hagy, that he was born in Germany, and that he had come over to America in the vessel with Lafayette, and had been under his orders during the whole war of the revolution. General Lafayette, after devoting a few moments to the affection of his old companions in arms, re-entered the carriage with the governor, and went to the beautiful residence of Dr. M’Nairy, who had prepared accommodations for us, and who, with his whole family, received us with the most amiable hospitality. The general was received at the door by the municipal body and the mayor, who addressed him in the name of the inhabitants of Nashville. After the reply of the general to this speech, the people gave three cheers, and retired in silence, to permit their guest to take a little repose before dinner; but the general profited by this occasion to visit Mrs. Jackson, whom he understood to be in the town, and to Mrs. Littlefield, the daughter of his old fellow soldier and friend, General Greene.
At four o’clock another procession came to conduct us to a public dinner, at which more than two hundred citizens sat down, and which was presided over by General Jackson. Among the guests was a venerable old man, named Timothy Demundrune, the first white man who settled in Tennessee. According to the American custom, the repast was terminated by the frank and energetic expression of each guest’s opinion on the acts of the administration, and the public character of the magistrates, and candidates for the different offices; among these numerous toasts I will only cite the three following, which appeared to me as peculiarly well adapted to demonstrate the predominant sentiments of the people of Tennessee.
“The present age—it encourages the reign of liberal principles. Kings are forced to unite against liberty, and despotism to act on the defensive.”
“France—republican or monarchical, in glory or misfortune, she always has claims on our gratitude.”
“Lafayette—tyrants have oppressed him, but freemen honour him.”
After this last toast, the general rose, expressed his thanks, and begged permission to give the following: “The State of Tennessee, and Nashville, its capital—may our heritage of revolutionary glory be for ever united to the unfading laurels of the last war, and thus form a perpetual bond of union between all parts of the American confederation.”
The president then gave the signal for departure, and we went to the masonic lodge, where three hundred brothers, in the most brilliant costume, received us with the most affectionate cordiality. We passed a true family evening with them. An eloquent orator, Mr. William Hunt, delivered an excellent discourse, which, in a masonic form, embodied the most noble precepts of patriotism and philanthropy; and the meeting terminated by an elegant collation, at the end of which the general proposed a toast, which was received with the greatest enthusiasm; it was to the memory of our illustrious brother Riego, the martyr of liberty! In retiring to our quarters at Dr. M‘Nairy’s, we found the town brilliantly illuminated, and a great number of houses decorated with transparencies representing General Lafayette, with a variety of ingenious emblems.