At Chads-Ford the general learned that one of his companions in arms, Gideon Gilpin, under whose roof he had passed the night before the battle, was now confined to bed by age and infirmity, and despaired of being able to join his fellow citizens in their testimony of respect to the general: he went to visit the aged soldier, whom he found surrounded by his family. Gideon Gilpin, notwithstanding his extreme weakness, recognized him on his entrance, and proved by tears of grateful and tender recollection how much this visit tended to the comfort and soothing of his last moments.
On arriving at the field of battle, General Lafayette recognised successively, and pointed out to us himself, all the principal points on which the two armies had manœuvred and fought on the 11th of September 1777; nor did his recollection wander a single moment. Being arrived at the spot where the first attack was made, and where he had been wounded, he paused a moment; his ancient companions pressed around his carriage, and the militia passed before him, amid the loudest acclamations and the cry a thousand times re-echoed, “long live Lafayette.” During the whole of this scene, of profound emotion on his part, and which his modesty induced him frequently to attempt to abridge, he spoke to those around him of nothing but the presence of mind evinced by Washington on the fatal day of the 11th September, and of the courage manifested by the officers and soldiers in supporting him. But in vain he recalled the names of the most illustrious chiefs, and attributed to them all the glory of having saved the army: the reply he received was by pointing him to the soil on which he had spilled his blood, and the sight of this indestructible monument exalted to the highest degree the gratitude of the crowd of spectators who accompanied him. In prolonging our excursion along the route by which the British had conducted their first attack, we arrived at the house of Mr. Samuel Jones. It had been for a short time occupied by General Howe during the battle, and yet retains traces of the well directed fire of the American artillery. After the elegant collation with which we were entertained by Mrs. Jones, we had presented to us various implements and remains of arms found on the field of battle; and we returned with these precious reliques to West Chester, where we concluded the day in the enjoyment of festivities prepared by the inhabitants.
In the multiplied recitals I have made of the public rejoicings at which I assisted, during my stay in the United States, it was impossible not to be struck with the constant association of religious ideas and patriotic sentiments which so strongly characterise the citizens of this republic: but what is not less remarkable is, that their religion, free of practical minutiæ, seems as much an uniform sentiment as their love of liberty resembles an uniform faith. With them a political orator never terminates a prepared address without an invocation, or grateful recognition of divine power; and a minister of the gospel on taking the pulpit commences, by recalling to the notice of his auditors their duties as citizens, and their peculiar privileges in living under the wise institutions of their country. It may also be remarked, that this union of political morals and theology influences all the actions of the Americans with a gravity and deep conviction, the charm and tendency of which are wholly inexpressible. How could any one listen to these simple and touching invocations without being deeply affected, and without uniting in their humble and pious acknowledgements? We were about being seated at the hospitable board prepared by the citizens of West Chester at the National Hotel, when the president of the day remarked that a minister of the church was in the company, and invited him to ask a blessing on the assemblage, which was done in the most affecting manner by the Rev. William Latta.
A committee of the citizens of Lancaster having been deputed to escort General Lafayette from West Chester, he committed himself to their care on the 27th, after taking leave of a great number of the soldiers of 1776, who could not receive the last adieu of the aged general without testifying their emotion with tears.
I have already, I believe, mentioned the remarkable fact, that at the south, as at the north, and from the east to the west of the United States, we had met with men of different manners and languages, submitting for the general good to the same democratic government; living in harmony, in the enjoyment of domestic happiness and of public prosperity, under the shield of the same institutions. Having made this observation, we naturally concluded that neither great wealth nor diverse habits of the people of this country, are obstacles to the establishment and the administration of republican government, which is founded on an equal appreciation of the interests and rights of all. Nothing perhaps more strongly confirmed General Lafayette in this opinion, than a view of the city and county of Lancaster, where are found men from all parts of America and Europe, and of almost every diversity of religious faith, yet all attached to the wise and excellent institutions by which they are governed.
I shall not describe the festivities with which the citizens of Lancaster entertained the man, who, whilst they received him as a guest, they most warmly claimed as their friend, though they were not inferior either in elegance or cordiality to those of the largest cities of the Union. I shall not, however, pass over in silence, events which by their nature serve to explain the unity of sentiments and principles which characterise all classes of the American people. I shall, therefore, relate the proceedings of the clergy of every denomination in the city and vicinity, who, at the intelligence of the arrival of the general, spontaneously collected to unite their patriotic felicitations with those of the other citizens. Their congratulations were conveyed by the dean on their behalf, without distinction of sect. If the address were to be given at length, it would give additional weight to the opinion I have already advanced respecting the American clergy: but it will suffice, I trust, to relate a portion of the general’s reply, in which this opinion is expressed with a strength and precision which leave no doubt of his convictions.
“I accept,” replied he, “with sincere gratitude the proofs of kindness and regard which the clergy of this city and vicinity have voluntarily accorded to me, and which you, sir, have expressed in so impressive a manner. In my happy sojourn in this country, I have often had occasion to remark the veneration which the clergy of every denomination inspire, whose individual members, apostles of the rights of man, are the immediate functionaries of a religion founded on the principles of liberty and equality, and on the principle of elections by the people of evangelical ministers.”
On quitting Lancaster, we travelled to Port Deposit, on the shore of the Susquehanna, where we were met by a deputation from Baltimore, with whom we embarked, destined for this latter city. On our way we visited Havre-de-Grace, a small town situated on the Susquehanna, at its entrance into the Chesapeake. Here we remained several hours, and then continued our voyage favoured by fine weather, our way being beguiled also by the pleasures we enjoyed on board. From the deck of our vessel, we beheld expanded to our view the delightful vallies and the rich hills of Maryland: the companions of our voyage, pressing around Lafayette, and designating to him the fields in which, during their struggle for liberty, he had fought to obtain it: and at short distances on the shores, groups of the inhabitants attracted by the sounds of national airs which echoed from our deck, testified, by incessant acclamations, the delight occasioned by the presence of the adopted son and benefactor of their country.
The sun had left the horizon some time ere we arrived at the mouth of the Patapsco, and it was not till midnight that we touched the wharf at Baltimore. Though at that advanced and unseasonable hour, a large number of persons were in waiting for the appearance of our vessel, and on disembarking General Lafayette found himself surrounded by a crowd of friends. At the moment of placing his foot on shore, an immense burst of light suddenly illuminated the port, and looking to the southern quarter of the city we saw volumes of flame rising almost to the clouds. Instantly the hollow cry of “fire, fire,” resounded in every street. Anxious to offer the first assistance, we left the general in care of two members of the committee, who conducted him directly to the hotel provided for him, and we ran at our utmost speed toward the scene of conflagration, but we discovered that we had been outstripped by four engines, which on our arrival were already in full operation. Other engines arrived from all quarters, directed by young men, volunteers in this patriotic employment, and commenced their operations with such promptness and activity, that, although the fire had originated in a frame building occupied as a store, the flames were very soon subdued, and indeed wholly extinguished. We found ourselves involuntarily amidst the inactive crowd of spectators, and returned to our lodgings at two o’clock in the morning, filled with admiration of the spontaneous exertions as well as the zeal and ability of the young firemen of Baltimore.