Leisure hours among the gems

by Augustus C. Hamlin

The finest rose-colored diamond known belongs to the Austrian jewels. It is of a beautiful rose-color, thirty-two karats in weight, and of remarkable lustre. It is now placed in the centre of a knot of white brilliants to which the decoration of the cross of Maria Theresa is attached. Here is also the beautiful bouquet of flowers made for Maria, and constructed out of colored diamonds and other precious stones.

The finest collection of colored diamonds in the world is to be seen here. It was made by a Tyrolese named Helmreicher, who went to Brazil and spent the most of his life there in searching for them among the different mines. They illustrate finely the wide range of color possessed by the gem.

The Empress of Austria, in 1800, during the war with France, wishing to emulate the manners of ancient warriors, sent to the Archduke Charles, then in command of the army of Bohemia, a helmet set with magnificent gems.

In ancient times it was not rare for Eastern monarchs to array themselves richly, which the stern Romans affected to despise, believing in the virtues of unadorned steel. The decorations of Artaxerxes Mnemon and Mithridates are said to have amounted to millions of dollars in value. It is also reported that Alexander, at the battle of Arbela, wore a helmet with a gorget of polished steel set with gems. Murat, however, the gayest of all modern generals, obtained his picturesque effects by means of colored fabrics and feathers rather than from gold and gems.

There were few persons among the frequenters of the courts of Europe during the past three-quarters of a century who had not heard of the value and the splendor of the Esterhazy jewels. It appears that near the close of the last century Nicholas, Prince Esterhazy, assisted at the crowning of Francis II. as King of Hungary. He was then captain of the Guard of Honor, which was composed of twenty-four nobles and princes of inferior rank, and on this occasion first appeared in his ornaments of precious stones. The Prince, not content with the usual decorations belonging to his rank and his corps, transformed all parts of his equipments which were of metal into open gold-work incrusted with gems. The effect was so beautiful as to stimulate the Prince to continue and complete his designs in a magnificent manner. And therefore he sought far and wide for the finest gems to adorn his person.

This passion for collecting and decorating soon ripened into a mania, and developed a prodigality greater than the Curii or Fabricii ever dreamed of. Ample means were at hand to foster this love of magnificence, for the Prince was feudal proprietor of a third of Hungary, being possessor of thirty-three manors, and lord of seventeen grand seignories.

The uniform of his rank as general of Hungarian huzzars, composed of jacket, pelisse, and pantaloons, was woven with pearls of the finest description; and among the multitudes of gems which formed the decorations were fifty thousand fine diamonds of the brilliant form. The weight of these mantles of magnificence was more than one man could endure for a length of time; and its profusion of ornament recalled the barbaric splendor of Lollia Paulina as she appeared at the banquet of Caligula. Gems of all colors and varieties were employed by the Prince, and many fine rubies, emeralds, and topazes were made use of. The most valued and the most delicately formed of all his ornaments was the aigrette of diamonds which replaced the ordinary plumes on his huzzar cap. It was called the most beautiful jewel in the universe. These artificial plumes, which flashed like flames of fire, contained five thousand diamonds of the purest transparency and most beautiful colors. Their weight amounted to one pound and a half avoirdupois. Around the huzzar cap were placed a wreath and a band, over which were ranged, in many rows, the finest and most brilliant pearls. The sword and scabbard were incrusted with the rarest brilliants. The broad band which hung over the shoulder to the belt was a remarkable article of workmanship. It was a simple band covered with fine pearls and the most precious diamonds, one of which, at the shoulder, was valued at 20,000 livres and another at the waist at 12,000 livres. Besides these ornaments he had for decorations six orders,—of the Toison d’Or, of the Bath, Saint Andrew, and others, all constructed of unequalled magnificence.

These costumes were worn by the Princes Nicholas and Paul at the coronation of Francis II., of George IV., of William IV., of Victoria, and of the Emperors of Russia and Austria; and were the themes of admiration, even among the glittering uniforms of higher ranks. But finally, by the fatality that attends collections of all that is beautiful on the earth, there came a change in the fortunes of the heir of Esterhazy. Paul, the last Prince, died some years ago harassed with debts. His estates were hypothecated; but his jewels passed into the hands of his creditors, and many of them were sent to London to be separated and sold. Since then most of the beautiful gems, which sparkled so brilliantly in former times in the courts of Europe, have been scattered over the world, and their identity lost, their history forgotten.

There is a very beautiful diamond of thirty-six karats owned in Holland, but its history we have not learned.

The famous crown of St. Stephen of Hungary, which disappeared during the Revolution of 1848, is said not to have any diamonds among its gems. Whether the absence of this stone is due to the extreme antiquity or to the whims of the constructors of the crown, we are unable to state.