Query.—H. B. writes: I have been trying to cure corned beef, but it has a very funny taste. If you can tell me what is the trouble and how to avoid it I will be greatly obliged. I boil the water for making it into brine and use refrigerated meats. I thoroughly cleaned the barrel with scalding hot water. I did not cure the meat in a cooler, but in a room where the temperature runs from sixty to sixty-five degrees. The brine was seventy degrees strength, according to the pickle-tester. I did not use either sugar or molasses in the brine. The curing is a failure. Will you please give me all the information you can?
Ans.—Your questions are their own answers. It is impossible to cure Corned Beef or any other kind of meat in a room where the temperature is as high as 60 degrees. It should not be higher than 45 degrees, and 40 degrees will be much better.
We refer you to our directions for curing Corned Beef in our book, “Secrets of Meat Curing and Sausage Making.”
The directions contained therein should always be followed to the letter, if good results are desired, and when they are followed you will turn out the very finest Corned Beef; it will be in perfect condition and have the sweet taste so much desired. The brine for 100 pounds of meat should be made as follows: 8 pounds of common salt, 1 pound of Freeze-Em-Pickle, 2 pounds of granulated sugar and 5 gallons of cold water. The meat should be cured in this brine ten to fifteen days, according to the weight and thickness of the pieces. Use only fresh meats that have been thoroughly chilled.
LARDING NEEDLES—HOW USED.
Query.—F. P. C. writes: What are larding needles used for? I would like to receive a copy of your book.
Ans.—A larding needle is used for drawing fine or thin strips of bacon through beef tenderloins and other kinds of meat. Frequently small strips of dry salt pork are drawn through beef tenderloins, also through meat to be roasted. This makes the meat nice and juicy and also imparts to it a fine flavor. The strips which are to be drawn through the meat are cut very thin and usually square. They are about ⅛ to 3/32 of an inch in thickness.
WHY COOLER “SWEATS.”
Query.—F. B. writes: “I would like a little information in regard to my cooler. In sultry weather it sweats terribly, almost changing its natural finish to white and the sweat rolls down from it. If you can give me any information as to how I can stop it, I will be very thankful to you. The inside of the cooler is perfectly dry; in fact, I could strike a match in it anywhere. Kindly let me know if there is any way of preventing this trouble.”
Ans.—The trouble with your cooler is no doubt due to the moisture of the atmosphere and to some imperfection in insulation. The defect can be remedied by the manufacturers. You say the cooler is perfectly dry inside, therefore, its construction must be very good, but the outside insulation is not just right, so the outside becomes too cool and the moist air coming in contact with the cold surface readily condenses. If the cooler can be insulated in such a way that the outside will not become so cold, we have no doubt your trouble can be overcome.