In seven hours we reached Vercknei-Kamtschatka, which is thirty-five wersts from Charom. Vercknei is a very considerable place, compared with the ostrogs I had hitherto seen. I counted more than a hundred houses. Its situation is commodious, and the prospect round it tolerably various, Besides bordering upon the river[67], it has the farther advantage of being near to woods and fields, the soil of which is good, and begins to be cultivated by the inhabitants. The church is built of wood; its architecture is not disagreeable, and it is only to be wished that the inside corresponded with the external appearance. The inhabitants differ in no respect from those of the other villages. For the first time I saw at this place a species of buildings, about the height of a balagan, that serve no other purpose than to dry fish. A serjeant had the command at Vercknei, who lives in a house belonging to the crown.
This village is also the place of residence of the unfortunate Ivaschin, whose history I related upon my leaving Saint Peter and Saint Pauls[68]; he was of our party, and had only quitted us in order to arrive sooner at Vercknei, where his first care had been to kill one of his oxen, which he entreated us to accept for our journey, as a testimony of his gratitude. This proceeding justified the concern I felt for him, whose aspect alone made me more than once shudder at the idea of his misfortunes. I cannot easily conceive how he was able to support them, and reconcile himself to his fate: it must have been the consciousness of his innocence alone, that could have given him such strength of mind. We paid him a visit upon our arrival. He was drinking merrily with some of his neighbours. His joy was sincere, and gave us no intimation of a man sensible of his past sufferings, or weary of his present situation.
Our stay at Vercknei was short; we set out after dinner in order to sleep at Milkovaïa-Derevna, otherwise called the village of Milkoff, which was at the distance of fifteen wersts. In our way we passed a tolerably large field inclosed with pallisades, and farther on a zaimka, that is, a hamlet inhabited by labourers. These labourers were Cossacs, or Russian soldiers, employed in the cultivation of land on government account. They had eighty horses belonging to the crown, and which equally answer the purposes of industry, and of the stud established in this place for the propagation of animals so useful and so scarce in the peninsula. About five hundred yards from this hamlet, which is called Ischigatchi, upon an arm of the Kamtschatka, is a water mill built of wood, but not very large. No use could at present be made of it. The swell of water had been so great as to overflow the sluice, and to spread itself over a part of the plain where it was frozen. The soil appeared to be good, and the country round it to be very pleasant. I questioned the Cossacs upon the productions of their canton, where I conceived every species of corn might be cultivated with success. They told me that their last harvest had, both in quantity and quality, surpassed their hopes, and was not inferior to the finest harvests in Russia: two pouds of corn had produced ten.
Arrived at Milkoff, I was astonished no longer to see either Kamtschadales or Cossacs, but an interesting colony of peasants whose features and address told me they were not a mixed breed. This colony was selected in 1743, partly in Russia and partly in Siberia, among the primitive inhabitants, that is, among the husbandmen. The view of administration, in sending them into this country was, that they might clear the land and make experiments in agriculture; hoping that their example and success would instruct and encourage the indigenes, and induce them to employ their labours in this advantageous and necessary art. Unfortunately their extreme indolence, which I have already described, little corresponded with the wise intentions of government; and so far are they from pretending to any rivalship, that they have never derived the smallest advantage from the examples that are before their eyes. This extreme sluggishness of the natives is the more painful to an observer, as he cannot but admire the industry of these active emigrants, whose labours have been attended with such beneficial effects. Their habitations, situated upon the Kamtschatka, seem to shew that they live at their ease. Their cattle thrive well from the great care they take of them. I observed also that these peasants had in general very much the air of being contented with their situation. Their labour is profitable, and not excessive. Every man plows and sows his field, and having only his capitation to pay, he reaps abundantly the fruit of his exertions, which a fertile soil repays him with usury. I am convinced that greater advantages might be derived from this source, if the cultivators were more numerous. The harvest consists chiefly of rye, and a very small quantity of barley. This colony has nothing to do with the chace. Government extended its cares so far as to prohibit it, that their labours might be wholly devoted to agriculture, and that nothing might divert their attention. The prohibition however, I could perceive, is not very scrupulously observed. Their chief is a staroste, appointed by administration, and selected from the old men of the village, as the name implies. His business is to inspect the progress of agriculture; to preside over their feed time and their harvest, to fix the precise period when they are to take place; in short, to stimulate the negligence, or encourage the zeal of the labourers, and particularly to maintain the spirit of the establishment and a good understanding among them.
Being desirous of going to Machoure, to spend a day with the baron de Steinheil, I left M. Kasloff at Milkoff, and set out twenty four hours before him, that I might occasion no delay in his journey. To travel with the greater expedition I made use of a small sledge. The roads were no better or less obstructed with snow than what we had before experienced, and I was therefore unable to make the speed I intended, notwithstanding my precaution. The first village I came to was Kirgan. Before I reached it, I passed a number of houses and balagans that appeared to be deserted, but I was informed that the summer regularly brought back every year their proprietors. The few habitations which compose the ostrog of Kirgan, are built upon the border of a river called Kirganik, which is formed by a variety of streams that issue from then neighbouring mountains, and unite above the ostrog, fifteen wersts from Milkoff.
The cold was so severe, that notwithstanding the precaution I took of covering my face with a handkerchief, my cheeks were frozen in less than half an hour. I had recourse to the usual remedy, that of rubbing my face with snow, and was relieved at the expence of an acute pain that continued for several days. Though my face was thus frozen, the rest of my body experienced the contrary effect. I conducted my own sledge; and the continual motion which this exercise requires, added to the weight of my Kamtschadale dress, threw me into a violent perspiration, and fatigued me extremely.
My dress merits a particular description; by which it will be seen that it gave me no very alert appearance. Commonly I wore merely a simple parque of deers skin, and a fur cap, which upon occasion would cover my ears and part of my cheeks. When the cold was more piercing, I added to my dress two kouklanki, a kind of parque that was larger and made of thicker skin; one of them had the hair on the inside, and the other on the outside. In the severest weather, I put on over all this, another kouklanki, still thicker, made of argali, or dogs skin, the hairy side of which is always undermost, and the leather or external surface of the skin painted red. To these kouklankis a small bib is fixed before, so as to guard the face against the wind: they have also hoods behind, which fall upon the shoulders. Sometimes these three hoods, one upon another, composed my head dress, by being drawn over my common cap. My neck was defended by a cravat called ocheinik, made of sable, or the tail of a fox, and my chin with a chin-cloth made in like manner of sable, and fastened upon my head. As the forehead is very susceptible of cold, it was covered with an otter or sable fillet, and this was covered again by my cap. My fur breeches gave me more warmth than all the rest of my dress, complicated as it was. I had double deer-skin spatterdashes, with hair on both sides, and which are called in Kamtschatka tchigi. I then put my legs into boots made of deers skins, the feet having an interior sole of tounchitcha, a very soft grass, which has the quality of preserving heat, Notwithstanding these precautions, my feet, after travelling two or three hours, were very wet, either from perspiration or the gradual penetration of the snow; and if I stood still for a moment in my sledge, they be came immediately frozen. At night I took off these spatterdashes, and put on a large pair of fur stockings made of deer or argali skin, and called ounti.
Notwithstanding my fatigue, I made no stop at Kirgan. A few wersts farther on, I perceived a volcano to the north, which emitted no flame, but a column of very thick smoke ascended from it. I shall have occasion to return this way, and will then speak of it more at large. I observed near Machoure a wood of firs, tolerably bushy, and which was the first I had seen in Kamtschatka. The trees were strait, but very slender. At two o'clock in the afternoon I entered the village of Machoure, which is upon the Kamtschatka, and thirty-seven wersts from Kirgan.