In different parts of Scotland, as in Aberdeenshire, Hebrides, and Shetland Islands, there are examples of the natural chronometer mentioned in the text. In Morayshire there is a striking example of the sand-flood, concerning which the following details have been furnished by my young friend the Rev. Mr Ritchie.
Sand-Flood in Morayshire.
“Westward from the mouth of the river Findhorn in Morayshire, a district, consisting of upwards of ten square miles of land, which, owing to its extreme fertility, was once termed the Granary of Moray, has been depopulated and rendered utterly unproductive by the sand-flood. This barren waste may be characterised as hilly; the accumulations of sand composing these hills frequently varying in their height, and changing their situation.
There is historical evidence, that, in the year 1097, the Moray Firth overflowed the low country on its southern shore, and threw out sand. But the destruction of the barony of Coubine (which includes the greater part of the desert mentioned above) was long subsequent to this, as might be proved from the inscription on a tombstone in the church yard of Dyke. From historical notices, also, in regard to the Kinnairds of Coubine, preparing for publication, it appears that the eruption of sand commenced about the year 1677; that its progress was gradual; that, in 1697, not a vestige was to be seen of the manor-place, orchards, and offices of Coubine; that two-thirds of the barony were already ruined, and that the sand was daily gaining ground.
This sand, which overwhelmed Coubine, came from Mavieston, situated on the shore, about seven miles west from the mouth of the Findhorn, where, from time immemorial, there have been large accumulations of sand. The sands at Mavieston had formerly been covered with vegetation. In an act of the Scottish Parliament, dated 16th July 1695, for the preservation of lands adjacent to sand-hills, it is stated, that the destruction of Coubine “was occasioned by the bad practice of pulling bent and juniper.” Having been thus set at liberty, the sand moved towards the north-east, as appears from the desolation which marks its progress. The moving cause is the wind. I have had opportunities of witnessing the effect of the wind on the loose sand. When the breeze is moderate it carries along with it successive waves of sand, each wave (if I may be allowed the expression) being of a small size, and moving with greater or less velocity, in proportion to the strength of the breeze, and presenting a very beautiful appearance. When the wind is high the heavier particles are drifted forwards, the more minute are raised to a considerable height in the atmosphere, occasioning no small inconvenience to the spectator, who finds his ears and nostrils filled with sand. The movements of the sand are still towards the north-east. In the winter of 1816 a large portion of Binsness, the only remaining farm on the west side of the Findhorn, situated in the line of the sand’s progress, was overwhelmed. Since that period large accumulations of sand have disappeared altogether, and rich soil, marked with the plough, has been left bare, after having been buried for upwards of a century.
The very minute particles, which, as has been stated, the wind raises to a considerable height, are occasionally carried across the Bay of Findhorn. In the statistical account of Dyke, the parish in which Coubine is situated, it is said, “that, at the town of Findern, in a blowing day, one may feel the sand sharply striking on his face, from the west side.” This sand, of extreme fineness, is to be seen in and around the town of Findhorn, and along the coast much rich land is said to have been covered by sand brought from the west.
The greater quantity of the sand is drifted into the river, and its effects have been very remarkable. Many years ago the mouth of the river having become blocked up with sand, it cut out for itself its present channel, which conducts it, by a more direct course, to the sea. In consequence of this, the old town of Findhorn had changed its situation, from the east to the west side of the river, and its site has since been covered by the sea. Previous to this, however, the inhabitants, carrying with them the stones of their former houses, had removed across the river, and erected the present village. On the retiring of the tide from the bay, the river almost disappears, being swallowed up by the sand, and quick-sands are formed. The effect resulting from the same cause, the drifting in of the sand is very different at high water. In consequence of the channel of the river having been filled up, the bay has increased in breadth. The sand constantly carried down by the river has formed a bar, which prevents the entrance of large vessels; and the river, probably owing to its increased breadth, and this bar depriving it of the impetus acquired in the course of its descent, is, at spring-tides, unable to force its way into the sea, when it is made to flow back, and inundate a considerable extent of carse-land situated at the head of the bay. It was at one time proposed to render the river navigable by dredging. And it is proposed to endeavour to save the adjoining carse-land, which is of the richest quality, from the monthly inundation to which it is at present subject, by building a wall along the river side.
I venture to suggest, that the plan Nature employs for fettering down sand should first be imitated, and that seeds of the Arundo arenaria, Elymus arenarius, and other plants, which grow readily in sand, should be, from time to time, strewed over the Mavieston Hills. The seeds of the Arundo arenaria are not always to be had; but plants might easily be procured in abundance, and be dibbled into the sand-hills. The circumstance of great accumulations of sand having of late disappeared from Coubine, has given rise to the expectation, that the barony is at no distant period to become again serviceable to man. By cutting off fresh supplies from Mavieston, this period would be accelerated, and the proposed improvements rendered comparatively easy.