CHAPTER VIII
Forestry: Reindeer: Land Tenures[149]
CHAPTER IX
Fisheries: The Lapps: Religion and Morals: Music[169]
CHAPTER X
Legends and Literature[187]

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

1.Country Girl from Dalen[Frontispiece]
FACING PAGE
2. Trondhjem—Old Boats[4]
3. Costume worn in the Bergen District[6]
4. The Road to Hell, near Trondhjem[8]
5. White Cap worn in the Bergen District[10]
6. Trondhjem[12]
7. Little Girl of Telemarken[14]
8. Making the Dinner—a Cottage Interior at Sælbo[16]
9. Bergen[18]
10. On the Fjord, Sundalsoren[20]
11. Country-women selling Berries on the Road to Storen[24]
12. Norwegian Captain[26]
13. Farm-house and Mill at Gjora[28]
14. Mountains and River at Gjora[30]
15. A Little Farm on the Riverside at Gjora[32]
16. Ostre Kanalhavn, Trondhjem[34]
17. The Town of Molde[36]
18. Woman Spinning, Sundalsoren[38]
19. Snow-capped Mountain at Sundalsoren[40]
20. Old Warehouse and Boats, Molde[46]
21. Mountains and Fjord facing Molde[48]
22.Moldöen[50]
23. Bergen[52]
24. A Fair Maiden of North Bergen[54]
25. Bergen Boats and Warehouses[56]
26. Væfos, Hildal, Hardanger[58]
27.A Hardanger Country Girl[64]
28.Skjæggedalsfos, Hardanger[66]
29.Hardanger Headdress[68]
30.River at Haukeli[70]
31. A Peasant of Sætersdalen[72]
32. Espelandsfos, Hardanger[74]
33. A Boy of Sætersdalen[76]
34. Sundalsfjord[78]
35. Sætersdalen Girl in National Costume[80]
36. Sætersdalen Peasant Girl[86]
37. Moldöen[88]
38. A Cottage Interior, Telemarken[90]
39. A Norwegian Girl[92]
40. Kjendalsbræ[94]
41. A Typical Norwegian Maiden[96]
42. A Baby of Telemarken[98]
43. Romsdals Horn[100]
44. Old Age, Telemarken[102]
45. Romsdals Waterfall[108]
46. The Houses of Parliament (Storthing), Christiania[110]
47. Ski Sports—the Great Holmencollen Day outside Christiania[112]
48. Room by Munthe at Holmencollen[114]
49. Skiers drinking Goosewine[116]
50. Girls on Overturned Sledge, Holmencollen[118]
51. Old Canal, Christiania[120]
52. Sledging by Torchlight[122]
53. Making Native Tapestry[124]
54. Bird's-eye View of Christiania[126]
55. A Vosse Bride[130]
56. Farm-houses built of Poles[132]
57. Country Girl, Bergen District[138]
58. Sætersdalen Bride[140]
59. A Hardanger Bride[142]
60. Making "Flad-Brod"—a Cottage Interior[144]
61. Snow Plough drawn by Eight or Ten Horses[150]
62. Fishing through the Ice on Christiania Fjord[152]
63. Fishing-nets at Sundalsoren[156]
64. The Midnight Sun[158]
65. Mundal, Fjærland, Sognefjord[162]
66. Fishing-boats at Lofoten[170]
67. A Little Sætersdalen Peasant Girl[172]
68. Buerbræ, Odde Hardanger[174]
69. A Lapp Mother and Child[176]
70. Snow-capped Mountains at Aune[178]
71. River at Gjora[182]
72. Grieg[184]
73. Henrik Ibsen[188]
74. Bjornstjerne Bjornson[190]
75. Fridtjof Nansen[192]

PRECARIOUS TRAVEL

NORWAY

CHAPTER I

PRECARIOUS TRAVEL

Of the sea voyage to Norway the less said the better. It is my habit to be ill when I am at sea. That is unfortunate; but habit in itself engenders a mode of philosophy that makes many of the evils of life more easily bearable than they might otherwise be. I expect to be ill, and literally lay myself out for it; but Nico takes up an attitude of aggrieved surprise that the ocean should thus overcome him, and consequently is a far greater sufferer than I am. However, it is easy to assume a more or less frivolous tone when all is over, and the fact must be admitted that the voyage to Norway is almost invariably unpleasant to the majority. From the Continent, one can go overland; but such a country as Norway should be approached by sea. Still, many a valiant sportsman prefers the land for his return when the autumn winds begin to blow, and so it is not surprising that less hardy natures are inclined to do the same. It was summer when I visited Norway for the first time; and, although one has frequent chances of viewing the coast as one steams along it from Stavanger to Trondhjem, I did not really begin to take any interest in the country until I had rested and eaten for some days in the latter town. Certainly I had one experience in Bergen during the two or three hours that we stopped there on our way north. With my usual insatiable thirst for dissipation, I insisted on visiting a circus I had discovered upon the outskirts of the town. The performance was not very thrilling; but we are neither of us difficult to please, and we stayed rather late. Thus, when we returned to the quay the gangway of our vessel was being pulled up. Nico made a rush for it, and was saved; but could not prevent the sailors from completing their task, and thus I was left lamenting. However, the sailors finally threw me a rope, and I managed to scramble on to the deck. It was most undignified, and, I am afraid, from the safety of the deck a most laughable spectacle; and I fled to hide my embarrassment in my cabin, ultimately going supperless to bed.