Christmas, as a holy-day, is strictly observed by the general suspension of business, and service is performed at all the churches, as in most other Catholic countries. The only exception to this uniformity perhaps consists in the devotional ceremonies usually offered to a cross affixed to the walls of the Bishop’s palace, which rites concluded the religious offices of the day. These services were performed by the Indians—and give but too painful evidence of the influence of their priesthood.
The next day was Sunday, and concluded the feast of St. Christoval. The churches were crowded, as is usual, during the morning; but the majority of the multitude that attended the service consisted of females, mostly Indian. In the afternoon we proceeded towards the church of St. Christoval, for the purpose of witnessing the closing scene of a festival which is finished by a procession. Before reaching our destination, however, we met it, and took a position in a door-way, the better to observe it and be out of the crowd. It was headed by eight or ten Indians, with long brass and tin horns, making the most discordant sounds imaginable. Then followed Indian boys, drumming on hollow pieces of wood, squalid and dirty in their appearance, and who were the only ones of a like character that presented themselves to view among the immense multitude. Next came the priests, chanting for the saints, and waving the burning incense, followed by drums and fifes in advance of a large image of the Virgin, decked in various colors, interspersed with tinsel ornaments, surmounted with glass vases, in which a lighted candle or a bouquet of flowers was alternately placed. This imposing display was borne upon the shoulders of eight Indians, surrounded by priests. The rear was brought up by a company of soldiers with fixed bayonets; the whole surrounded by an immense crowd, filling up the streets for a great distance. All were uncovered, and many knelt during the haltings of the procession, which were purposely frequent, so as to enable the people to salute the image. This grand display occupied about three hours, the procession passing through the principal streets and back to the church, where it was dismissed. The whole dispersed with the utmost quietness; some to their homes, and others to places of gaming and dancing.
In returning to our lodgings we met a calesa, preceded by two Indians with lanterns, tinkling small bells, followed by four Indian soldiers, armed with muskets. The carriage contained a priest, who was going to administer holy unction. The people, as is the universal custom here, knelt as he passed. To obviate a similar necessity, we retreated into the nearest house; thereby escaping a charge of heresy, and the unpleasantness of coming in contact with muddy streets.
A stranger, on his first arrival in this country, is at a loss where to place the Indian in the scale of social life. He sees him clean and well dressed, mingling with the whites, and without distinction. To have Indian blood is no reproach, and family groups, in many cases, show this most palpably. It is not unusual to hear mothers threaten to send their children home to their respective fathers, whenever their rudeness requires chiding. The Indian, however, performs the menial labor of the country—and there is an appearance of apathy in his looks and actions, which seems to carry with it the signs of a broken, or at least a subdued spirit—resting upon him like a melancholy vision, a dreamy remembrance, of better days. For, say what we please of him, he is the humble descendant of a once great and powerful people—the “children of the sun,” who were lords of that soil on which their offspring are now held in humiliating vassalage.
We were roused early this morning by the tramp of horses. It was a body of cavalry returning from a neighboring town, where they had been ordered for the purpose of quelling an émeute. They were headed by a small bloody-looking Mexican, with a pair of mustachios that the proudest Castilian might have envied. He was dressed in a blue roundabout, loose white trousers, and a glazed Mexican hat. His followers were mounted upon mules of the most jaded appearance, saddled and caparisoned with manilla matting and ropes. Each wore a shirt, trousers, and straw hat; and was bare-footed, except a pair of huge spurs, which embellished the otherwise naked heel of each rider. Their usual arms were the broadsword and pistols, but this squadron was not well equipped; and the common bayonet, with them, was frequently compelled to do duty for one or both of the other weapons. After so particular a description of these soldiers, it is a matter of extreme regret that the result of the expedition cannot be minutely stated. I feel entitled, however, to indulge a little pride in making the announcement, that they did return crowned with wreaths of victory.
INDIANS OF YUCATAN.
This season of the year is the high noon of the holy-days, which engrosses the best part of the year, and which formerly included two-thirds of it. Their number, some time since, was reduced by a bull from the Pope. The people testify their respect for these festival days (for such they are denominated) by processions and such amusements as are suited to their taste. Notwithstanding the acknowledged debasing effects of their sports and pastimes, which wholly consist of bull-baiting, cock-fighting, and gambling, they are not disgraced by any riotousness or drunkenness. It is a singular fact, that, although the degrading habit of gambling is general among all classes of society, male and female, drunkenness and its concomitant vices are unknown. The priests give countenance to these recreations, if they may be so called, both by their presence and participation. It is but due to the Yucatecos to say, that during my residence in their province, I never observed any cheating or quarrelling at the gaming table, nor have I observed others tempted by improper means to participate in the hazard of the gaming table, after the manner of people at the North. Gambling seems to be a passion peculiar to the Mexican’s character, which he indulges from motives quite independent of mercenary considerations. They usually gamble with cards; but of the skill or even the names of their games, I must plead an utter ignorance. Their interest would sometimes become perfectly intense, as every lineament of their countenances abundantly testified. Hope, fear, satisfaction, and disappointment followed each other in quick succession over their faces, while the portly priest and the flippant señora, who stood near, with their bets vibrating with the chances of the game, seemed scarcely less interested in the result than the more immediate parties. Had a spell of enchantment been laid upon the whole group, they could not have been more completely at the mercy of the uncontrollable hazards of their game. All moral accountability seemed to disappear before its irresistible fascinations.
THE PLANTAIN TREE.