I embraced an opportunity, which was now offered me, of visiting the bishop at his palace. Entering a large doorway in the centre of the court-yard, and ascending a flight of stone steps to a range of corridors, I was met by a servant, who conducted me into an ante-room. My name was taken in; and, in a few seconds, I was received by the bishop, in an adjoining room, with a most cordial welcome. He has a fine head. His person is tall, rather robust, and looked the bishop to the life. He was clad in a blue silk gown, and a cap of the same material, resting upon the crown of his head; and embellished with a massy gold chain around his neck, appended to which was a cross. He conversed respecting citizens and residents of the United States with whom he was acquainted, either personally or by reputation; and spoke of the shipwreck of our national vessel, the schooner Porpoise, on board of which he was a passenger, while on her way to Vera Cruz. He expressed himself in the highest terms of commendation of the officers, and gave a glowing account of the perilous voyage. He showed his library with a great politeness, and a becoming pride; but it struck me as being quite limited for one in his position. He expressed himself liberally; and no doubt, as his countenance and actions indicated, he is a right worthy man.
His rooms were fitted up more with an eye to the useful, than to any apparent desire for display. The ceiling was ornamented with lithographs of battles, interspersed with patterns of French fire-boards. Previous to taking leave, he very kindly offered all the aid in his power for facilitating my visit to the towns in the interior. For this, as for other civilities, I shall probably never have an opportunity of testifying to him the full extent of my gratitude.
He passed with us through his house to the door of the college, adjoining, when he left us in charge of the rector, with instructions to conduct us through the building. The institution is called “Minerva.” The first room entered was the library, which was small and badly arranged. It was comprised of works principally relating to the church. It contains a portrait of the founder of the college, a building which was completed in 1775. It is supported by certain taxes paid by each curate in the province. These having been cut off, in a great degree, by the recent changes in the government, seriously affect the institution, which, at this time, is quite limited in its means. Though the pay of the president and professors is small, and the contingent expenses are light, it is apprehended that it cannot long be continued. Its studies do not go beyond the high schools in the United States. We hastily glanced at this building, and then entered the cathedral with our attentive friend, who took especial pains to point out every thing worthy of particular notice. Upon a close examination of the altars and shrines, it was plainly to be discovered that the church was poor. The time is gone by in which churches are made the depositories of the precious metals, formerly a source of so much wealth to them.
One of the shrines contains a wooden image of our Saviour, to which attention was called by one of the priests that accompanied us through the church. He stated to us with much gravity, that it was preserved harmless from a great fire by a miracle, and that it is now looked upon as a most sacred relic. A room was shown us containing portraits of all the bishops of Yucatan. They were badly executed. One of them was pointed out as having been a great eater; he would devour a whole turkey at his dinner, and say, “it was a fine chicken.” Another was shown who had performed the miracle of changing sour apples to sweet, a function which has given its proprietor’s name to a species of apple, which is retained to this day.
CHAPTER III.
Mechanical Pursuits—The Circulating Medium—A Ball—A Remnant of Franciscans—Signs of Decay in the Suburbs—The Cemetery—The Weather—A Whole Congregation Flogged—The Wise Men—The Gentlemen—Extra Civilities—The Appearances of Trade—Products of the Soil—Education—Language of the Indians—The Ancient People—Waldeck’s Opinion of them—The Maya Language—The Lord’s Prayer in Maya—Grammars of that Dialect—Difficulties in Speaking it—Traits of the Indian Character.
Having resolved to visit the towns in the interior, I was under the necessity of making some preparations which brought me in contact with the mechanics of Merida. It being customary and even necessary to travel chiefly upon the backs of horses and mules, the saddler and the tailor were first called into requisition. These professions were principally filled by Indians and half-breeds, who, though clumsy in their business, were far more expert than might have been expected. The custom of the country invariably exacts the payment of one-half of the amount agreed upon in advance, in order that the contractor may be in funds to purchase stock, wherewith to fill his contract. Though their delays are very annoying, yet they are generally honest, and may be depended upon for ultimately fulfilling their engagements.
The wants of the people are so limited that few mechanics are necessary. Nature is kind and lavish. The articles necessary to cover and protect the body are not numerous, and every thing requisite for its nourishment abounds. It looks very odd, I had almost said humiliating, to see men sitting upon the public sidewalks, working upon a lady’s dress, and similar articles hanging around the door-ways of their houses, as a sign of the services which they hold themselves competent and ready to render. Manufactories are nowhere to be seen; the clatter of the loom or the noise of the hammer never disturbs the quiet of Merida.
Some idea of the wealth or poverty of a country may be formed from an acquaintance with its currency. Silver is the basis of the circulation of Yucatan, of which the Spanish sixpence is the smallest. A fractional sort of change, however, is represented by the seeds of the cacao, two hundred and fifty grains of which are considered equal to sixpence. Of these, five grains constitute the smallest amount ever received in trade. In some of the provinces of the Mexican confederacy, pieces of soap pass as a circulating medium, and lose none of their estimated value for a few washings, provided the balance of exchange should not be such as to carry it out of the district where it is known. The great scarcity of money tends to reduce every thing else in an equal ratio. Servants’ wages are from three to five dollars a month, and those of mechanics are at a proportionate rate. Rents are almost a nominal charge. This is partially produced by the number of untenanted buildings that are decaying without occupants.