Connected with one of the monasteries of the Jesuits, is the Church of Jesus. It has partially lost its ancient splendor by the removal of valuable plate and embellishments, which formerly belonged to it; and I should not detain my readers with a notice of it here, but for a most singular religious ceremony which I was permitted to witness within its walls during vespers. The congregation was composed principally of Indians. After the usual ceremonies were concluded, a large Indian prostrated himself upon the floor before the altar, carefully adjusted his limbs, and laid himself out as if he were preparing for burial. Men, with coils of rope about their heads, representing crowns of thorns, dressed in loose garments, and bending under the weight of a heavy cross, then entered and tottered up the aisles. A cross and scull were then passed around; the bearer repeating in Latin, as they were handed to be kissed, “This is the death, and this is the judgment!” When this form had been concluded, we were all supplied with whips, (I declined to avail myself of their politeness,) the lights were extinguished, and all was darkness. Nothing was visible but the gigantic windows, and the outlines of the stupendous arches and fretted walls above us. The chamber of death was never more silent than was that church for the moment. While I was speculating upon what would probably occur next in the order of exercises, my meditations were suddenly interrupted by the sounds of stripes rising and echoing through every part of the vast edifice. That there was whipping going on, I had no doubt; but whether each one did his own whipping, or had it done by his neighbors, I was, for some time, unable to satisfy myself; but I soon discovered that the former was the case, upon the presumption, doubtless, that each one knew how much his case required better than any one else. This penitential ceremony continued for the space of fifteen minutes, at least, without intermission. When it ceased, which was at the tinkling of a bell, the candles were relighted, and the assemblage slowly left the church, apparently perfectly satisfied that they had received no more than they deserved.
I had the gratification of visiting a number of the learned men of Merida, or “sabios,” as they are denominated by some travellers. In Yucatan, this title is not inappropriate. They are celebrated here, and very justly; for they are tolerably well informed; therein, having greatly the advantage of the mass of their fellow-citizens. They seem to be a chosen band, living and moving in a distinct body within their own circle; like Rosicrucians, having no kindred spirits to whom they can attach themselves, or from whom they can increase their numbers. Thus, in the course of ordinary events, as their days approach to threescore and ten, their order must become gradually extinguished. One of them, to whom I paid frequent visits, was already upwards of ninety years of age, and one of the most interesting old men I have ever beheld. He seemed happy to see me; was fond of speaking of his youthful days; gave an account of his early studies and recreations; and, withal, a goodly portion of fatherly advice and admonition. His mind appeared to be vigorous; too much so, indeed, for the feeble state of his body. He was pleased to answer questions; and, when adverting to the state of the country, spoke with much feeling, but despairingly, of every thing connected with it.
I had the pleasure of meeting, to-day, with the gentlemanly owner of the estate upon which are the celebrated ruins of Uxmal. He was intelligent and communicative, and had travelled in the United States. He traced back, as far as practicable, the title-deeds of his forefathers to this land, in order, if possible, to gain some clew to its early history; but it led to nothing that could be made available to the traveller. He expresses great confidence in Mr. Stephens, who is now investigating these ruins, and to whom he had rendered every facility for the prosecution of his task. I asked him what he would take for the land upon which those ruins were situated; and he readily replied, five thousand dollars. I declined to embark in a speculation in these lands, but did not hesitate to avail myself of the letters with which he was so kind as to favor me to the majordomos of his several estates; for which I beg leave here to express my most sincere thanks.
The social condition of the female sex in Yucatan, so far as my observation extends, compares very favorably with that of females of the same rank in the other provinces of Mexico. The Yucatecos ladies generally attend to their household affairs, and to the education of their children; but though their habits are rather domestic, the standard of virtue is not to be estimated as high as in the United States. Their personal attractions are quite inconsiderable. In the absence of animation and intelligence, nothing is left to fascinate or to be loved. The brunette complexion, regular features, black hair, and eyes of the same color, predominate. They dress in the Spanish fashion—bright colors are generally preferred—with a light veil thrown over their heads, and a profusion of jewellery and other ornaments carefully arranged about their persons. They seldom walk out, except to church, where they appear to more advantage than at any other place. At their houses, their carelessness of dress amounts to slovenliness. They may be seen at almost any hour of the day, swinging in their hammocks, with cigars in their mouths, or making their toilet in the doorway of their dwellings. It is a general custom here for the ladies to sleep in this suspended apparatus. Those who are accustomed to the luxury of a bedstead, are not easily reconciled to this arrangement; and I have in vain tried to discover a sufficient reason for the prevalence of these articles, to the exclusion of the bedstead.
The gambling propensities of the ladies are as strong as those of the gentlemen; which, however, they do not indulge in to so great an extent. They mingle at the public tables, but good order and decorum always prevail.
A stranger is particularly struck with the apathy of the wife in her household affairs. She is seldom seen in conversation with her husband. Being poorly educated, she has no literary resources whatever. She is rarely seen with a book in her hand. The common topics of her household form the only points of intellectual contact between herself and her husband. Sleep is her chief resource; and, in the swing of the hammock, many of her best hours are lost in forgetfulness. Music, I found to my great surprise, was but little cultivated.
Considerable attention is paid to the education of children; but it is not deemed necessary, by parents, for them to proceed much beyond the first rudiments. The public school system is adopted, and kept up with some degree of ability, by the government and corporations. The towns are divided off into districts throughout the state, in which are two colleges and fifty-seven schools; besides others of select tuition, in which the elements of an ordinary education are taught, together with the doctrines of the Romish church.
The impressions which I have received of the male population are as yet necessarily undefined, and would not perhaps warrant me in attempting to characterize them; but, so far as my knowledge extends, I am inclined to think them a proud, though not a supercilious people. It is that Castilian sort of pride which is identified with the old Spanish character; and which has descended from him as naturally to the Mexican as his siesta. This gives them, even in their ignorance, some character. While they have this pride about them, we may be sure they will not degenerate into Caffres. Though they have declared their independence of Mexico, and have promised to the world to prove themselves worthy of enjoying entire political liberty, yet it is very evident to a stranger, that a majority of the population are perfectly indifferent whether they return or remain under their present rulers. This apathy in political matters indicates a condition of the national mind, which is likely to be but little affected by the form of government under which it exists. Their constitution much resembles that of the United States. They have a President, Vice President, and two houses of legislators. The elective franchise extends to all, not excepting either the Indians or the blacks. The latter class is principally composed of runaway slaves from the neighboring islands. Their number, however, is small. All religions are tolerated; but that of the Catholic is protected!
In their private dwellings very little or no taste is displayed. Their furniture, generally, is plain. They are not very choice or select in the ornaments for their rooms, French lithographs in frames, such as are usually hung about in our bar-rooms and barbers’ shops, being almost universal.
The people throughout Yucatan are exceedingly polite to strangers. It would be well for foreigners, however, to know that when, on presenting letters of introduction to the Yucatecos, they tender you all their earthly possessions, together with their personal services into the bargain; it would be wise to get accustomed as soon as possible to the habit of being satisfied with their individual attentions, without expecting an immediate transfer of the title-deeds of their estates. This would save much disappointment, as many of their civilities are empty ceremonies, offered only in conformity with their national customs.