CHAPTER IV.
Preparations for the Interior—Outfit, &c.—The Indian Boy—Departure from Merida—Arrival at Tixcoco—Calcachen—A Feast-day—Isamal at a distance—Arrival there—Our Palace—A Procession—Ancient Mounds—The Church—A striking Indian—Wrong Impressions—Tuncax—A Dilemma—Philosophy of the Road-side—A Dinner—Visit to a Curate—A Touch of Comfort—Mail Carrier—Sitax—An Indian Alcalde—Tinum—An Allusion—Valladolid—A Mistake rectified in time.
The varying and unsatisfactory accounts which I had received of the interior of Yucatan, had awakened in me an irresistible desire to explore it, although I tried in vain to define to myself the cause of my curiosity. Partly through a desire of novelty, and partly for the want of a more definite purpose, I resolved to invade those unexplored regions which had not yet found a corner in our geographies, nor even been reached by the all-pervading spirit of traffic. As soon as I had resolved, I addressed myself to the preparation of my outfit; in which, despite the ignorance and indolence of my Mexican aids, I was ultimately successful.
To some future traveller, it may be interesting to know the nature of my preparation.
In the first place, then, I provided myself with an over-all shirt, (pockets made to order,) Mexican riding-trousers, and palm-leaf hat. In addition to these, were a hammock and a striped blanket; the latter article Americanized by ornamental stars, representing the emblems of my country, in white, red, and blue; under which one could sleep, fight, or negotiate, as circumstances might require. Of weapons, defensive and conciliatory, there were a double-barrelled gun, an Indian knife, and rather a limited amount of the smallest Spanish coin. The Indian and the Bowie knife are very similar in weight and shape. The former is an indispensable accompaniment upon a journey through this peninsula. It may be seen that, if driven to the wall, a very tolerable show of defence might have been made.
The cooking arrangements consisted of tin cups and pans, salt, and loco-foco matches. My philosophical and mathematical instruments were a memorandum book, an ordinary lead pencil, and a pocket compass! The instruments and dress were intrusted to no one but myself—the latter enveloped my person, while the former occupied those invaluable shirt-pockets, of which I claim to be the original inventor. To the Indian boy José, (pronounced Hosay,) whom I hired as a servant to accompany me, and who will be hereafter better known to my readers, was intrusted the other portion of my luggage.
The boy, to whom allusion has just been made, was decidedly genteel in his appearance. Though he has been termed a boy, he is of the kind who, among the Irish, never become men until they are married. He was about five-and-twenty years of age. His mother and sisters thought the world of him, and well they might; for he was most worthy of their affections. Both his physical and mental powers were very symmetrical. He was active, industrious, and faithful. If he had any fault, perhaps it was in being too amorous. I do not feel disposed, however, to quarrel with a constitutional infirmity.
I left the agreeable residence of Doña Michaelé, in company with my fidus Achates, on the twenty-ninth of January, on one of the most lovely mornings that the eye of God ever looked out upon to bless.
Our route was eastward, towards Valladolid. The road was wide, and in excellent condition, being one of the principal thoroughfares. This road is under the superintendence of government; and the expenses of its repairs are defrayed by a tax, similar to the road-tax usually levied in the United States.