At eight o’clock we arrived at Sitax, the prettiest town we had seen; where we stopped for breakfast and to obtain a horse, that of José having given out. As I strolled about the place, I noticed a more marked appearance of order than was generally to be seen in the other towns. At the house of an old Indian I saw an earthen vase, something of the Etruscan shape, which he told me had been found among some of the ancient ruins in this province. He used it as an incense-burner; and refused to sell, or even to set a price upon it. Money is not omnipotent with these Indians, as in most civilized countries; and this prostration of the divinity almost startled me.
On returning to the Casa-real, breakfast and an alcalde were sent for. Both came. The former consisted of the almost undeviating course—eggs, tortillas, and frejoles; and the latter, of a strapping big Indian, barefooted, bearing his staff of office, and accompanied by one of his aids. My wants were soon explained; and he immediately despatched his aid, who brought an Indian that agreed to carry José and luggage to Valladolid, eight leagues, for the sum of half a dollar. The bargain was concluded, and the money paid in advance, as is always customary among the natives. This demand must be complied with uniformly. Even the women who wash clothes require a medio in advance, to buy soap.
The luggage was lashed to the back of a mule, and we were again upon the road. Several stops were made by the way, to visit haciendas and ranchos, (grain and cattle farms;) but little of interest occurred upon our journey. We arrived at the town of Tinum at two o’clock. The sun being excessively hot, we waited till evening. The Casa-real in this, as in other towns of the province, was the loafering-place of the Indians. They were squatted about in the shade, silent and motionless, killing time to the best of their abilities. At four o’clock we again betook ourselves to the road, and passing through several inconsiderable Indian towns, arrived at Valladolid at dusk on the fourth day of February, distance one hundred and twenty miles from Merida.
For the greater part of the way from Isamal to this city, the road is level, though somewhat rough. As we drew near to Valladolid, gentle risings were more common at intervals, particularly near the sonatos. Although this road commences at the capital, and leads through all the principal cities and towns of the interior, it is but little travelled. No wheel carriages, of any description, were seen. Transportation is mostly effected by mules—perhaps I should say, by Indians; many of whom were met upon the road with heavy packages secured upon their backs, and held by plaited ropes passed around the head in the usual manner.
After a fatiguing day’s journey, we reined up in the square of the city, before the Casa-real, and dismounted. I discovered, however, before entering, that it was full; and, upon inquiry, ascertained that it was occupied by prisoners, who were detained there while their usual place was undergoing repairs. This sort of association not being altogether agreeable to me, we remounted, and went in quest of a countryman, who I heard was residing here. Successful, after much inquiry, in finding him, my name, the object of my visit to Valladolid, &c., were all communicated to him in due form; but somehow Mr. Stephens, who had been daily expected here for the last two months, had got into the head of my new acquaintance, as I afterwards learned, and, in his confusion, he had mistaken me for that celebrated traveller, and led me, without my being aware of the misconception, to the house of a friend who had been long advised of that gentleman’s approach. I was met by the polite and hospitable owner of the house, and invited to walk in, while orders were given to have care taken of the horses. But, mistrusting that all was not right, I halted at the threshold, and requested a parley. It was only with a considerable degree of earnestness that I was enabled to convince him that I was neither Mr. Stephens nor the Medico, (alluding, probably, to Dr. Cabot, one of the companions of Mr. Stephens.) The amiable lady and her daughter were quite amused at the incident, and seemed rather to enjoy my embarrassment than otherwise. I drew off, and followed my countryman to his quarters, where I was kindly entertained for the night. This was rather a laughable circumstance; but I congratulated myself that we came to an understanding in time to prevent its becoming ludicrous.
The ROAD SIDE.
CHAPTER V.
Festival of the Purification—A Factory Discovered—New Quarters—Appearance of Public Buildings—Church—Singular Display of Taste—Population and Health—The Town—Its Suburbs—Monastic Ruins—Remarkable Sonato—Amusements—The Riband Dance—The Market Place—Cotton—Ancient Ruins—Difficulties of Strangers—A Norther—Kaua—The Churlish Curate—End of a Feast—The Route—Approach to Chi-Chen—A Glimpse of the Ruins.