The cotton plantations, or rather the districts where the material is raised that is consumed in the manufactory in this city, are to the north, and known as the “Tizimin district.” The same spot is seldom cultivated for two successive seasons. After the crop is gathered, the ground is suffered to be overrun with weeds and brushwood; which, when years have elapsed, are cut down and burnt, and the field is re-planted. Cotton here is not in classification; it is gathered and sold in the seed, and ranges from ten to fifteen cents per pound. It is generally superior, both in texture and color; but the indolence of the natives, and other causes, will prevent the extensive cultivation of that article for many years to come.
I learned, during my sojourn here, that there were many interesting places, further to the east, worthy the attention of the stranger—ancient buildings, and even cities—some as far east as the island of Cozumel. I also heard of ruins in the neighborhood of Chi-Chen, which, for reasons that need not be mentioned, I concluded to visit first. The owner of this hacienda, which is situated about eleven leagues to the west-south-west from this city, resides here. Having learned my intentions, he not only very generously offered me the use of his house, which is near to the ruins, but sent his major-domo to have it prepared for my reception.
On the morning of the eighth of February, after again experiencing the instability and fickleness of the natives, and that apathy and indolence proverbially characteristic of them, I succeeded, through the aid of my friend, in securing a guide and horse to conduct us thither. The Indian, who is the traveller’s sole reliance, as previously remarked, in all kinds of menial service, can hardly be induced to work, unless from the necessity of supplying his own immediate wants, or under the orders of the alcalde, to whom strangers are often obliged to apply for assistance in compelling these indolent people to assist them. In such a case, the aggrieved party enters his complaint to the alcalde, stating that he has endeavored to hire an Indian, but that he refuses. The Indian is then sent for, and his reasons for declining heard: if not satisfactory, and they seldom are, he is commanded to attend the traveller, and the amount of his compensation fixed at the time. The penalty for disobedience is imprisonment, which, however, is seldom incurred.
We were upon the road at an early hour, but had not proceeded far before we experienced “a norther” of rain and wind—a kind of tempest peculiar to these regions, and exceedingly annoying. We stopped at an Indian’s hut for shelter; but the dilapidated state of the walls offered so insufficient a protection from the elements, that I soon concluded to make headway under their fury, and to endeavor to reach the town of Kaua, where we expected to find a good retreat. The ride over the slippery rocks was slow and hazardous, but at three o’clock we reached the long looked-for place, where we had pictured to ourselves so much happiness in the change of clothes and comfortable lodgings. How fallacious, sometimes, are our brightest anticipations! On arriving at the Casa-real, (the traveller’s first hope,) every thing was found to be comfortless and forbidding. Our clothes were drenched, and the storm continued unabated.
The curate was the next resort; he lived close by. So, dripping with the rain, and trembling with cold, we went to his house, and gave such a shivering knock, that it might have denoted our pitiable condition without the necessity of words to explain it. After some delay, a short, thick-set, gray-headed old man came to the door, inquiring, rather gruffly, what was wanted? A single glance might have told him; but we, however, verbally stated our situation, and requested his advice. All we could obtain from him in answer was, “Nadie, Nadie!”—with such an emphatic and significant shrug, that I was sure he had practised it all his life. I left as I had entered, rather coolly. Slightly scanning his room, however, I observed, in a corner, a table covered with broken pieces of cups, the floor filled with old chairs, books, &c., and dirt in abundance. I had little difficulty in believing the grapes were sour. I pocketed my ungracious reception as well as might be, and returned through the streets to the Casa-real, partly to see of what sort of people this pious churl, to whom I was a stranger, and who took me not in, was the Corypheus, and partly to get an idea of the topography of the place. I found my home had much improved by my absence. I was now in a state of mind to look at it with far greater satisfaction than when I left it. We built a huge fire upon the floor, warmed ourselves, and dried our clothes; and over our supper, that we had just bought of the Indians, decided, that it was better to submit to the evils that we already had, than “to fly to others that we knew not of.”
Only one white man was seen in the place, and it is questionable whether he were so all the way through. He was the curate, of whose tender mercies I had received so refreshing a specimen.
In my walk, I witnessed a scene which was calculated to excite both pity and disgust. In front of the church were collected some forty or fifty drunken Indians, with the log drum and other uncouth instruments, including their voices, making up with discordant and hideous noises a celebration of the last day of the masquerade. One of the prime actors in this revel eventually became so affected by the liquor he had drunk, that he became decidedly mad—striking about him and raving furiously. His companions were obliged to secure him by ropes, and have him carried to his hut.
By eight o’clock on the following day, I was mounted and on the route. The roads were somewhat more passable, though the same rocky surface, with occasional rises, was encountered. I observed one sugar-plantation on my way; the cane, which was then nearly ready to be cut, looked very well.
As I approached Chi-Chen, and while not more than four or five miles distant, I observed the roadside was strewn with columns, large hewn stones, &c., overgrown with bushes and long grass. On our arrival, at noon, we were most cordially received by the major-domo at the hacienda: the horses were taken into good keeping, and I was conducted to quarters which had been prepared in anticipation of my coming. These were in the church near by, in that part which is known to us as the vestry-room; and a very comfortable room I found too for my purposes.
This church stands upon a rise of land that over-looks the country for a considerable distance around, embracing the hacienda, and, probably, the most remarkable ruins the world has ever known. I found the major-domo as unremitting in his attentions as if he had been made for me expressly. The eighty Indians attached to the hacienda, the house and all its contents, as he assured me, were mine. I ought to be comfortable and happy. This, and the surrounding attractions, offered every facility for repose. There never could be found a more delightful place for dreaming life away in a state of irresponsible vegetation than the one now presented to me. The climate—the example and behavior of Nature about me—almost tempted me to abandon myself to the enchantment of its charming indolence.