On our return with the padre, we dismounted at his house; our horses were led through it, and myself into it, where, seated in a hammock, I partook of refreshments, and spent a very pleasant hour with my kind cicerone. I then took my leave, returned to the convent, rode through the long hall, and dismounted at my parlor door.
February 23d, at seven o’clock in the morning, I bade adieu to my good friends of Ticul, and we continued our journey. It was a delightful morning; our route was along the foot and across the Cordilleras; which we ascended by a narrow, rough, and cragged pass. We were obliged to dismount shortly after we commenced the rise, as the steep and slippery rocks make it not only difficult but hazardous, and we were glad to lead our horses over in safety. The prospect from the summit was beautiful and picturesque. Our descent was rather more easy and rapid; and we reached the town of Nohcacab, three leagues distant, at half past eight o’clock. Here we took a hasty breakfast, procured a guide, and were again on the road to Kahbah, distant three leagues, for the purpose of looking at the ruins which we learned were to be seen at this place.
CHAPTER VIII.
The Ruins of Kahbah—Those of Zayi—Scattered Ruins—Church at Nohcacab—The Padre—The Town—Departure for Uxmal—Arrival at the Hacienda—Quarters and Arrangements—The Scenery—General Character of the Ruins of Uxmal—The Governor’s House—The Nuns’ House—The Pyramid—Other Remains—Pyramids, Walls, and Mounds—Reservoir—Moonlight.
I first entered upon the ruins of Kahbah from the main road leading from Nohcacab to Bolen-Chen-Ticul. On the west side I found fragments of buildings, walls, &c., scattered about, principally upon a low range of hills. No perfect rooms were visible. Parts of walls and ceilings were seen, and the ground about covered up with rubbish, mingled with broken pillars, sculptured work, &c. In the building farthest from the road, (which is in the best preservation of any on the west side,) we observed two square pillars, which had been taken from the door-way, and placed against the ceiling of the room, by some traveller, no doubt, who intended to present them to the world. They are about six feet high and two wide; the front facings of which are deeply cut, representing a cacique, or other dignitary, in full dress, (apparently a rich Indian costume,) with a profusion of feathers in his head-dress. He is represented with his arms uplifted, holding a whip; a boy before him in a kneeling position, with his hands extended in supplication; underneath are hieroglyphics. The room is small, with the ceiling slightly curved; differing, in this particular, from those of Chi-Chen.
The ruins on the east side of the road comprise mainly three buildings, and an immense pile of stone in a pyramidical form, and in a much better state of preservation than those on the opposite side. These buildings are elevated upon a succession of terraces, which I ascended by a double flight of broken steps, to a square formed in front of each; the sides of which show the existence of walls now nearly levelled, and overgrown with trees and vegetation. Sufficient, however, is remaining of two buildings to indicate a similarity with those of the opposite side. The fronts measure about one hundred feet, the façades of which are ornamented with the most elaborate and skilful work, though now much broken and defaced. The carvings are somewhat similar to those of Chi-Chen; but they are much smaller, and do not display as much order in the arrangement. Broken columns, of unusual sizes, are to be seen a short distance from these buildings, evidently moved from their original positions.
The door-step of the principal inner room is elaborately sculptured, and entirely different from any thing I have observed in other places. In the centre of one of these squares, foundation walls are to be seen, which have been recently excavated. They, probably, were pedestals. These structures stand, uniformly, about four rods apart, on a line; and all have mounds and a succession of broken walls contiguous to them.
A few rods north of these buildings is a mass of broken stones, piled together in the shape of a pyramid, at the summit of which, to the height of one hundred and twenty-five feet, are still to be found the remains of the broken walls of an edifice. It is located, with reference to the cardinal points, like the pyramid of Chi-Chen, and was probably used for the same purposes, (whatever those might have been,) though the style of the work is not similar or equal to it. Its sides, at the base, measure five hundred feet, and are mostly bare; the loose stones barely maintain their form. The space occupied by these ruins cannot be less than a mile square.
