Early in the evening hammocks were slung in the billiard-room, (the place that had been the scene of our recent dinner,) and all my fellow-passengers and myself, without distinction of party or sex, conductors and Indians, turned in for the night.
At four o’clock, next morning, we were called; chocolate was served, and we were soon off by the light of—our cigars; our lady passenger keeping up the supply from an ample depository in the folds of her hair. The road was extremely stony, but it was now undergoing repairs and improvements. We arrived at Campeachy at nine o’clock; a distance from Merida of forty leagues, and were set down at the Traveller’s Hotel, immediately in front of the bay. Here is a fine view of the open roadstead, in which lie at anchor one Havana packet, and some four or five schooners. Near the shore are a number of canoes, engaged in the coasting trade.
CAMPEACHY.
CHAPTER XII.
Reception at Campeachy—The City—Public Buildings—The Convent—The Market—Charity—An Ancient Custom—Population—The College—Foundations of the City—Subterraneous Caverns—The Suburbs—The Harbor—Climate and Health—Various Ruins—The Author’s Collection of Idols—Dr. Morton on the Archæology of Yucatan—Other Ruins—Reptiles and Insects—A Concealed Nation—The Brothers Camachos.
My reception at Campeachy was extremely gratifying. There is evidently a class of society here which contrasts favorably with any to be found in the other cities of the province. The streets are narrow and irregular; and have a natural pavement of flat stone, which is much broken, and makes an exceedingly rough route for carriages. The buildings have not the clean appearance of those of Merida, owing to the extreme humidity that accompanies the sea winds; but they display more wealth and taste.
The public buildings on the square are of two stories, and tastefully ornamented and painted. The churches, as usual, are the most conspicuous public works. The private houses, generally, are of one-story, and well painted. There are few good two-story houses in the place.
The convent at Campeachy is a huge mass of stone and mortar; the walls of which bear the marks of the balls from the cannon of the besiegers of 1840, when the government troops fired upon the town. The cannonading was continued for three days, but without doing much execution! The city was obliged, however, to capitulate, for want of ammunition and supplies.