In lieu of a cold frame, a fairly deep trench, with a layer of pebbles or sand for drainage, can be used in the same way, with twice as much salt hay on top or even more. Some growers set the pots on shelves in cool, dark corners of the basement, but our cellars have always been much too warm. Soil should be kept moist, but not wet, during the rooting period.
When the pot is completely filled with roots, and a few stick out the drainage hole in the bottom, the potted bulbs are moved to a cool, shady spot in the house or greenhouse for just a few days. Then they are brought into the sun for growth and flowering. For the best and most lasting flowers, try to provide temperatures between 55 and 60 degrees by day, five degrees or more cooler by night.
The window of an unheated bedroom or attic, or an enclosed porch, may be the only place where temperatures are low enough for healthiest growth. These are good places to grow the plants until they open their flowers, then they can be brought into warmer quarters for a flowering display.
If you are trying to force bulbs into flower at some specific time, and if the buds aren’t swelling as fast as they should, warmer temperatures and a booster feeding of liquid manure should speed up the process. Cooler temperatures will help retard flowering.
Keep the soil always moist before, during, and after flowering. When the leaves begin to yellow, gradually hold back on watering and keep it barely moist until time to set the bulbs out in the garden. Forcing bulbs two years in succession is not usually successful.
MINIATURE BULB PLANTS
Chionodoxa Liliaceae Glory-of-the-Snow
Early April flowers that disregard unfavorable weather. Leaves are narrow and grassy and disappear after the flowering period. Flowers are open-faced with short tubes.
gigantea—Largest flowers, pastel lavender-blue. Strong stems that don’t fall over in bad weather.
luciliae—Five or more flowers per five-inch stem, bright sky-blue with white centers. The variety alba is white; rosea, pink.