CONTENTS


PAGE
CHAPTER I
WHY THE BALKANS?
The Rundreise Ticket—Why the Balkans?—When and Where English is Heard—Why Not the Balkans?[1]
CHAPTER II
BUDA-PESTH AND BELGRADE
Buda-Pesth and Its Language—From Buda-Pesth to Belgrade—The Servian Passport System—First Impressions of Belgrade—Garden Spots in and about the Servian Metropolis[12]
CHAPTER III
TWENTIETH CENTURY SERVIA
The Servians—The Rise of the Nation—The Army—The Race-meets—The Market in Belgrade—National Customs—The National Dance[24]
CHAPTER IV
THE SERVIAN DYNASTIES
Karageorge—Milosh Obrenovitch—Murder of Karageorge—Turkey Grants the Title of Prince—Milosh Abdicates—Abdication of Prince Michael—Alexander Abdicates—Prince Milosh Re-installed, His Death and the Re-election of Prince Michael—Murder of Michael—Prince Milan’s Marriage, Abdication and Death—Alexander Elected[43]
CHAPTER V
ALEXANDER AND DRAGA
Alexander—Draga—The Meeting—Draga’s Return to Belgrade—Russia’s Intrigues—Marriage of Alexander and Draga—Origin of the Plot to Murder[53]
CHAPTER VI
THE CAPITAL OF CRIME
Plans of Procedure—Meeting of the Regicides—The First Move—The Murder of the King and Queen—The Assassination of Others—The Royal Burial—The Murder of the Brothers Novakovics in 1907[61]
CHAPTER VII
PREDICTIONS OF SERVIAN TRAGEDIES
Prediction of the Assassination of Prince Michael—Natalie’s Visit to the Parisian Fortune-teller—The Prediction in London of the Murder of Draga and Alexander[78]
CHAPTER VIII
NISCH AND SOPHIA
From Belgrade to Nisch—Nisch—Provincial Hotel Accommodations—The Monument of Skulls—Tzaribrod—Sophia—Value Received for $1.25 per Diem—Dragoleftsky[94]
CHAPTER IX
BULGARIA AND HER PAST
Progress of Bulgaria—Origin of her Peoples—The Bulgari—First Russian Invasion of Bulgaria—The Assenide Dynasty—Turkish Tyrannies—Emancipation of Bulgaria—Russia’s Intrigues against Prince Alexander—The Late Balkan Disturbances[111]
CHAPTER X
A BULGARIAN MARKET
Bulgaria’s Busy Day—The Orient Express[130]
CHAPTER XI
SARAJEVO—THE SPIRED CITY
From Belgrade to Sarajevo—The Turkish Bazaar—A Bosnian Street Sprinkler—Horse-races at Ylidze—A Dervish Dance[145]
CHAPTER XII
FROM SARAJEVO TO THE COAST
Jablaniča—Mostar—Across the Mountains—The Balkan Riviera—Ragusa: The Fairy City of the Adriatic[166]
CHAPTER XIII
RAGUSA
As She Is—The First Colony—The Fire of 1292—The Black Death—Hungary Acquires the Place—Ragusa Establishes her Independence—Plague—Earthquake—Napoleon Takes Ragusa—The City Ceded to Austria[179]
CHAPTER XIV
THE BOCCHE DI CATTARO
Steamer-day at Gravosa—Ragusa from the Sea—The Bocche di Cattaro—Castelnuovo—Cattaro and Her Mountain Background[199]
CHAPTER XV
MONTENEGRO
The Gibraltar of the Balkan Peninsula—The Settling of Montenegro—Peter I—The Family of Petrovich—Prince Nikola—The Montenegrin Costume—Incidents of War—The Montenegro of To-day[211]
CHAPTER XVI
THE ROAD TO CETTINJE
The Ascent of the Mountains—Njegushi—The Montenegrin Capital—Historical Monuments in Cettinje—The Return to Cattaro[229]
CHAPTER XVII
SPALATO AND SALONA
Westward Along the Coast—First Glimpse of Spalato—The Campanile—Diocletian’s Palace—Salona and Her Ruins[247]
CHAPTER XVIII
ZARA
From Spalato to Zara—Chief Objects of Interest in the Capital of Dalmatia—The Story of St. Simeon—The Five Fountains—Fragments of Roman Occupation[269]
CHAPTER XIX
THE GULF OF QUARNERO
The Home of the Bora—Fiume—Abbazia—The Home of the Torpedo—Descendants of the Uscocs[282]

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

PAGE
The Late Queen Draga of Servia[Frontispiece]
Map[viii]
“A crowd of stary-eyed, open-mouthed, inquisitive natives”[5]
The Hotel Proprietor, Sophia[9]
The Fischer Ramparts, Pesth[13]
The Elizabeth Bridge,—Buda in the Background[17]
The Native Servian Head-dress[25]
Drinking a Friendly Glass of Slivivitz[31]
A “Boze” Peddler, Belgrade[35]
The Prishtina Costume, Worn by Servian Women on Feast Days[39]
The Late King Alexander of Servia[51]
A Sidewalk Café, Belgrade[63]
King Peter Karageorgevitch of Servia[69]
The Ball-room of the New Palace, Belgrade[73]
Fruit Venders, Nisch[95]
A Street Scene, Sophia[103]
A Bulgarian Village Church[109]
The Saint Cral Cathedral, Sophia[115]
The Ruined Church of Saint Sophia, Sophia[119]
Monument to the “Tzar Liberator,” Sophia[123]
“A hawking, bantering multitude ... in gala dress”[131]
Bulgarians in Gala Attire[135]
A Group Posed for the Camera at the Friday Market, Sophia[139]
The Austrian Army Barracks at Sarajevo[147]
Some Turkish Homes in Sarajevo[153]
Double-decked Stores in the Turkish Bazaar, Sarajevo[157]
“The Real Devotees of the Races”[161]
A Gorge of the Narenta, Near Jablaniča[167]
The Old Roman Bridge, Mostar[173]
The Harbour of Gravosa[181]
Ragusa,—Mount Sergius in the Background[185]
The Walls of Ragusa[189]
The Sea Forts of Ragusa[197]
A General View of Castelnuovo[205]
The Famous “Ladder” across the Face of Mount Lovčen[209]
A Group of Montenegrins[213]
A Typical Montenegrin Girl[219]
A Stone Mason of Cettinje and His Cart[225]
A Section of the Road across the Mountains[231]
The Pass at the Top of the Mountains[235]
The Main Street, Cettinje[241]
A Turn of the Road across the Mountains[245]
Spalato from the Campanile[253]
A Fountain on the Outskirts of Spalato[259]
The Ruins of the Basilica, Salona[263]
Roman Sarcophagi, Salona[267]
The Water Front, Zara[273]
The Five Fountains, Zara[279]
Via Andrassy, Fiume[285]