With a silver fork mix cheese and butter to a smooth paste, moistening with champagne as you go along, using a little more or less champagne according to consistency desired. Serve with the demitasse and cognac, offering, besides crackers, gilt gingerbread in the style of Holland Dutch cheese tasters, or just plain bread.
After dinner cheeses suggested by Phil Alpert are:
FROM FRANCE: Port-Salut, Roblochon, Coulommiers, Camembert, Brie, Roquefort, Calvados (try it with a spot of Calvados, apple brandy)
FROM THE U.S.: Liederkranz, Blue, Cheddar
FROM SWEDEN: Hablé Crême Chantilly
FROM ITALY: Taleggio, Gorgonzola, Provolone, Bel Paese
FROM HUNGARY: Kascaval
FROM SWITZERLAND: Swiss Gruyère
FROM GERMANY: Kümmelkäse
FROM NORWAY: Gjetost, Bondost