Fig. 159.—Bracelet of Kletis (No. 375).
Bracelets.—A favourite form of bracelet or armlet was modelled in imitation of a snake coiled round the arm or wrist. See the small silver bracelet of about the fourth to third century B.C., inscribed with the names of its owner Kletis (No. 375; fig. 159). The same design is also used for finger-rings (No. 376). Snake-coils of a large size were also worn on the legs, as shown by a small terracotta torso from Ephesus, which has this ornament on the thigh (No. 377). This torso also has a chain of beads passing over the shoulders and crossing between the breasts. Such an arrangement is common on figures in vases of the fourth to third century B.C.
Finger-rings.—The rings are generally set with an engraved gem or bezel; some have revolving scarabs which are pierced through the middle (No. 378), another has a gold intaglio portrait of the Empress Faustina (No. 379), while an enormous bronze ring has the design cut in the bezel itself, a double head of Hermes and a Seilenos (No. 380). These examples are in bronze and of poor workmanship, but they serve to illustrate the general style of ancient rings. A great number in gold and silver, arranged in order of date, are exhibited in the Room of Gold Ornaments, where the subject can be more adequately studied. The intaglio designs were for use in sealing, which was more commonly practised by the ancients than it is now. Others have a purely decorative purpose, and were worn in profusion. The bronze hand (No. 381) has rings on the upper joints of the fingers, in accordance with a common fashion of the Roman Imperial period. Fragments of bronze and terracotta also show the fashions of wear. The Greeks of an early period did not usually wear ornamental rings, although signets were in constant use, and it was not until the fourth century B.C. that rings were worn for display. In Rome there were class restrictions on the use of the gold ring, but these were lessened as time went on, until in the late Empire they practically disappeared. Betrothal rings were customary among the Romans, but in Greece there is no record of their use. A gold betrothal ring is shown in Case 53 (No. 639).
Fig. 160.—Greek Bronze Earrings of Early Date, from Ephesus (Nos. 382-3). 3:4.
Earrings.—The bronze earrings are from the site of the temple of Artemis at Ephesus, and are earlier than the sixth century B.C. (fig. 160). Two types are represented; the swelling hoop of wire, which hung like a liquid drop (No. 382) and the heavy coil, which was suspended from a ring (No. 383). For a very great variety of earrings, see the collection in the Room of Gold Ornaments.
Bullae.—The flat bronze pendants (No. 384), with a circular receptacle in the middle, are bullae. These are ornaments of Etruscan origin, introduced early into Rome. They were designed to contain amulets and charms, and were worn principally by freeborn Roman boys, and occasionally by domestic animals.
Necklaces.—The necklaces here exhibited (No. 385) consist of beads of painted terracotta and glass. See also the imitation jewellery in terracotta, in the Terracotta Room, Table Case C. Those of more precious materials are in the Gold Ornament Room. Some fragments of terracotta show the Cypriote fashion of wearing numerous necklaces together (No. 386).
Studs, etc.—Links and studs of Roman times (No. 387) bear a striking resemblance to the modern articles, as does a coiled hook-and-eye which dates actually from the Bronze Age Period (No. 388). A peculiar fastening is seen in the double hooks which probably served to loop together the two sides of a shawl or cloak (No. 389). They are probably of Roman date, and come in some instances from the province of Gaul.