Zicavo, pop. 1500, hotel, 2385 ft., charmingly situated, overlooking the valley of the Taravo, 38 m. by coach from Ajaccio. From Zicavo the ascent is made of [Monte Incudine], 7008 ft., in 6 hrs. Mules can be employed to within ½ hr. of summit. Although not difficult, guide and mule are advisable, if for nothing else than to assist in fording the streams. After having passed the chapel of S. Roch, ascend a steep mule path, right, among the largest and best formed chestnut trees in the island, then rounding Mt. Buchino, 3623 ft., among ilexes, and Mt. Occhiato, 5749 ft., covered with beech trees, ascend southwards by a wooded ravine between great rocks. Between 2 and 3 hrs. the Pastures of the plain of Coscione, with many shepherds’ huts, are reached, whence Mt. Incudine is seen. After leaving this the path becomes very bad, over loose stones and across troublesome torrents. These are succeeded by an annoying thick coppice of alders, and then the Col de Cheralba, 6345 ft., is ascended, in about 5½ hrs. from starting. The mules are left here, and the ascent is made by the western flank, taking care to make the guide understand that the highest peak is wanted, and not the Rocher de l’Incudine.
Nelson.
“The view is probably the most beautiful in Corsica—a vast panorama full of variety. Steep pine clad hills sink abruptly into the eastern sea; glens open southward on a rich glowing valley; the blue depths of the bays are fringed with an edging of white sand and green water. The great granite aiguilles of the forest of Bavella, a strange array of horns and pinnacles, run across the foreground; to the left the long fiord of Porto Vecchio stretches far into the land; while in the centre of the picture are spread out the broad Straits of Bonifacio, studded with pale isles and islets. On the left is Caprera, the home of the liberator of the Two Sicilies. The one beside it, [Maddalena], is linked with even greater memories—[Nelson and Napoleon]. Under its lee, in a bay which
Nelson christened ‘Agincourt Sound,’ the British fleet lay for months before the battle of the Nile, watching for the French squadron sheltered behind the guns of Toulon. Two silver candlesticks on the altar of the village church record Nelson’s gratitude for the friendly services of the inhabitants. It was in attacking this same village that [Napoleon], in 1793, first saw fire. For mountain views the Alpine clubman is spoilt, but for sea views, and they are not less beautiful, he must go far, perhaps as far as Greece, to find such another.”—D. F. Freshfield, Alpine Club. See [map on fly-leaf].
AJACCIO
SARTÈNE 21 32 [GROSSETO] 1476 feet, pop. 600; 4½ hours by diligence from Ajaccio. A little beyond the inn is the church, sheltered by large ilex trees, which grow to a great height in this neighbourhood.
AJACCIO
SARTÈNE 30 23 [BICCHISANO] 350 feet, pop. 1800, where the passengers dine. The diligence then passes the villages of Petreto and [Cassalabriva], pop. 300, and shortly afterwards reaches the summit of the [Col Celaccia], 1910 feet, about 2½ m. E. from [Sollacaro], pop. 800, where Boswell visited Paoli. Sollacaro is not on the highroad.
AJACCIO
SARTÈNE 39 14 OLMETO pop. 1650, hotel. On a hill, with an extensive view. In the neighbourhood, on Monte Buttareto, are the ruins of the castle of Arrigo della Rocca. No more beautiful sight than that of Olmeto can be pictured. Immediately below the town the ground dips steeply down, covered with corn or turf; or in terraces of vineyard, varied with large groups of fine olive trees stretching down to the shore. Above the village a vast growth of vegetation climbs the heights. Among huge masses of granite are tangles of every shrub the island produces, the wild olive or oleaster being one of the most elegant; while every part of the heights close to the town abounds with little picture subjects, with a clear blue sky for a background.
The road now descends to the coast, and after crossing the Baracci, near the [hot sulphurous mineral baths of Baracci], arrives at