Rochemaure.
LYONS
NÎMES 98 74 [ROCHEMAURE], pop. 1300, Auberge Gabarre. Suspension bridge across the Rhône. The modern part of the village is built along the high road, but the old on the steep slopes of the basalt rocks crowned by the ruins of the castle. There are many ways up to the top; the best and most frequented commences just opposite the “auberge,” traverses the centre of the curious old stony village, passes on the right the chapel with the arms of Ventadour and Soubise on the portal, then ascends by the battlemented wall to some miserable habitations, among what was the seigneurial manor, of which large portions still remain. Next to it, on a needle-like peak of nearly horizontal columns of basalt, rises the Keep, like a spear piercing the sky. A narrow path leading so far up will be found round the N.W. corner. The views are superb, of the valley of the Rhône on one side, and on the other of the Coiron mountains. These ruins, which from below look slim and airy, are the remains of a massive edifice constructed principally of basaltic prisms in the 12th cent. by the family of Adhémar de Montheil, and reduced to its present condition by order of Louis XIII.
A road up the gap on the N. side of the hill leads in a little more than an hour to Mount Chenavari, 1668 ft., distinctly seen from the top of the gap. On the summit is a tableland bordered with massive basaltic columns. At Rochemaure the olive trees begin to appear.
Le Teil.
LYONS
NÎMES 95¾ 76¼ [LE TEIL], pop. 3200, with some small inns. Omnibus awaits passengers for [Montelimart], 3¼ m. E., on the other side of the Rhône (p. 48). Branch line to Alais, 62¼ m. S.W., on the line between Nîmes and Clermont-Ferrand. From Vogué, on this branch, 17½ m. S.W. from Le Teil, and 44¾ m. N.E. from Alais, a smaller branch extends 12 m. N. to Nieigles-Prades. The Nieigles-Prades line forms a convenient entrance into Ardèche (see maps, [pages 26], [46], and [56]).
Aubenas. Vals.
[ Vogué, Aubenas, Vals, Neyrac, Thueyts, Mayres.]
5 m. W. from Teil, on the branch line to Alais, is [Aubignas] (Alba Augusta), pop. 530, once an important Roman station. 6¼ m. N. from Vogué is Aubenas, pop. 8000, Inn: H. Durand, on a hill covered with vines, olives, and mulberry trees, rising 328 ft. above the Ardèche, and commanding an extensive view of the valley of the river. On the highest part of the town are the church and the fine old castle, now containing the college, the hospital, and some other public institutions. Aubenas is the centre of an important trade in raw silk, butter, and cheese. At Vesseaux, a village to the north of Aubenas, excellent chestnuts are grown. (Maps, pages 56 and 46.)
3¼ m. N. from Aubenas is La Begude, the station for Vals. Omnibus awaits passengers. [VALS], pop. 4000, on the Volane, famous for its Mineral Waters. Hotels: Des Bains, on an eminence above the bathing establishment and the gardens. In the same neighbourhood are the Hotels Parc; Juliette; Délicieuse; Lyon; Orient. All the important springs are also in this part. In the town are the Hotels Europe; Durand; Nord; Poste. The Pension in the Hôtel des Bains is from 12 to 15 frs., in the others from 9 to 10 frs. Season from 1st May to October. Vals is prettily situated on the Volane, in a hollow among hills covered with vineyards and studded with mulberry and chestnut trees. The springs, gardens, baths, and best hotels are all at the eastern extremity. Near the H. du Parc is the intermittent fountain, and from it, across the bridge, are the springs Vivaraises, under a grotto; and, adjoining them, the spring Juliette, while a little beyond is La Délicieuse. The springs Madeleine, St. Jean, Précieuse, and the others, belonging to the Société Générale, are all farther up the river, nearer the town, at the second bridge. None of them are so pungent nor so agreeable to the palate as the Juliette and the Délicieuse. The properties of all are much the same. They give tone to the stomach, assist the action of the liver and kidneys, and remove paralysis of the bladder. They are all cold, easily digested, and may be drunk at any time. They contain bicarbonate of soda, lime, and magnesia,
lithia, iodine, iron, and some of them traces of the arseniate of soda, and owe their pungency to the free carbonic acid gas.