The South of France—East Half

by C. B. Black

The finest of the views of Toulon and neighbourhood is from the deck of the steamer while sailing through the roads. To the north rises the massive and precipitous Mont Faron with its forts and barracks, and to the east is La Malgue with its forts and batteries. To the west is La Seyne, by the north side of the hill on which is Fort Napoleon, and southwards is the peninsula of Cepet with the large Military Hospital of St. Mandrier. The whole coast from Toulon to Hyères is afterwards seen distinctly from the steamer. Just before arriving at Porquerolles the steamer sails closely along the southern shore of the peninsula of [Giens] (see p. 140, and [map, p. 123]).

Porquerolles.

[Porquerolles], pop. 500, is 5 miles long, and of an average breadth of 2 miles. The culminating point is 479 ft. above the sea. The northern coast is low, the land sloping upwards to the south, where it terminates in vertical cliffs of schistose and quartzose rocks. The vegetation is nowhere luxuriant. Pines, arbutus, and heaths cover the mountains, while the more fertile plains and valleys have vineyards and fields. The climate is very dry, and the water-supply is obtained from wells. Mosquitoes can hardly be said to exist. Many rare plants are found in the woods, such as the Delphinium requienii, Galium minutulum, Pelargonium capitatum, Latyrus tingitanus, Alkanna lutea, Genista linifolia, Cistus Porquerollensis, and the Cistus olbiensis.

The Port of Porquerolles is situated in nearly the centre of the N. side of the island, exactly opposite Hyères, and 9 m. from Les Salins. The pier has not sufficient water to allow the steamer to moor alongside. In the “Place,” quite close to the pier, are the church, the museum of the island collected by the most worthy curate, and the two inns, of which the H. du Progrès is the larger of the two. Above the town, at an elevation of 215 ft., is the castle, with some small buildings formerly used as an hospital, now a prison.

There are three main roads in the island—the road by the N. coast westward is called the Chemin du Langoustier, the road by the N. coast eastward the Chemin des Mèdes, and the road up the centre of the island, from N. to S., the Chemin au Phare. This last road

commences at the N.W. corner of the “Place” and terminates at the lighthouse on Cap d’Armes, the most southern point of the island, 210 ft. above the sea. The lighthouse, first-class, is ascended by 70 steps, is 46 ft. above the ground, and has a white light.

The first road right from the N.W. corner of the “Place” is the Chemin du Langoustier, which, on its way westward, traverses a comparatively open country. The building in ruins, seen on the top of the ridge to the left, 370 ft. high, is an old watch-tower, considered the most ancient structure on the island. Near the end of the road is a decayed soda manufactory. At the terminus on the peninsula is a Vigie, a watch-tower and signal-station combined, 108 ft. above the sea.

The road along the N.E. coast, the Chemin des Mèdes, traverses the most fertile part of the island. About half-way, near Point Lequin, it passes round the N. end of a ridge, extending N. and S., on whose summit, 479 ft. above the sea, is a semaphore or signal-station, commanding a perfect view of the whole island, while the view of the other islands, of the peninsula of Giens, of Hyères, and of the coast to beyond Cannes, is admirable. The way up is by the first branch road right at the commencement of the wood. The road at the commencement looks as if it led up the plain. The Chemin des Mèdes terminates at a farmhouse called Notre Dame, formerly a monastery, whence the continuation is by a path leading to a fort on Cap des Mèdes, to the N. of a hill 449 ft. high.

Port-Cros. Port Man. Levant.

[Port-Cros.]—11½ m. E. from Porquerolles port is the island of Port-Cros, 12½ m. S. from Les Salins, on the western side of the island, at the head of a small landlocked bay. An inn is near the pier. The main road extends from the landing-place up the valley by the church and the proprietor’s house to [Port Man] at the eastern end of the island. Port-Cros consists of a picturesque wooded ridge, whose culminating point is to the south, 669 ft. above the sea; it is 2½ m. from S.W. to N.E., and 1½ m. from N. to S., and contains 1482 acres. The rocks in Porquerolles and Port-Cros are similar—mica, schist, and quartz. Round the coast are numerous little coves with tiny smooth beaches. Excellent sea fishing may be had at all times.