Hyères: Drives.
[Drives.]—A 3 to 4 hours’ drive in a coach with 1 horse costs 6 to 8 frs., with 2 horses 10 to 12 frs., but, as there is no recognised tariff, it is necessary in every case to settle the price beforehand. The drive to Carqueyranne by the coast and back by the road between the Paradis and Oiseaux mountains, with 1 horse, 8 frs. The same price to La Crau, round by the west side of Mt. Fenouillet, and back by the valley of the Gapeau. The great drive, forming a good day’s excursion, is to the Chartreuse of Montrieux, 18 m. N., by La Crau, Solliès-Pont (a railway station), and Belgentier (pronounced Belgensier). (For [description], see p. 129.) Coach with 2 horses, 25 frs. there and back. The other great drive (costing the same) is to the Fort of Brégançon, 16 miles east by the coast-road, passing by Les Vieux Salins, at the eastern extremity of which a road strikes off due north towards the St. Tropez road, passing Bastidon (7 m. from Hyères) amidst large olive trees. After Les Salins the road enters the part of the plain called La Plage Largentière, in which is situated the Château de Bormettes, built by Horace Vernet (7½ m. E. from Hyères). A little farther east, on the Plage de Pellegrin, are the châteaux of Léoubes (11 m.) and Brégançon; and, on the western point of Cap Bénat, Fort Brégançon, about 4 miles west of Bormes. (For [Bormes], see p. 142.) Another pleasant drive is to Cuers, 14 m. N.W. by the Gapeau and Pierrefeu. The first road that ramifies to the right, from the Gapeau valley road, leads up into the Vallée de Borel, in the heart of the Maure mountains. This road passes by the large farmhouse of Ste. Eulalie, in a plain full of large olive trees, some 6 feet in diameter. There are also some large pines. Besides these excursions there are a great many little drives which may be taken in the wooded sheltered valleys running up between the ridges of the Maure mountains, but for them a light vehicle should be selected, as some parts of the roads are not good.
Hyères: Coaches.
[Coaches.]—From the Place de la Rade start daily coaches for Carqueyranne 6¼ m. W., for Les Vieux Salins 4 m. E., for [La Crau] 4½ m. N. (see p. 130), and for St. Tropez 32½ m. E., whence a steamer sails to St. Raphael. Near the “Place,” opposite the Hotel and Restaurant du Var, start several times daily large omnibuses for Toulon by La Valette (see maps, [pp. 123] and [129]).
Hyères proper is a little dirty town of narrow streets, running up the south-east side of the castle hill; like, however, all the other winter stations, the new quarter, with its handsome streets and villas, has far outgrown the original limits. A plain, 2 m. wide, is between the town and the sea. The beautifully-wooded Maure mountains surround it on the land side, mitigating the keenness of the north, north-east, and east winds, but affording indifferent protection from the mistral or north-west wind. The Toulon road, extending east and west, forms the principal thoroughfare. On it, and in its proximity, are the best shops and the best hotels. From it rise the steep streets of the old town, of which two of the gateways still exist. At the east end, fronting the Place de la Rade, is the Porte des Salins, and at the west end the Porte Fenouillet. Exactly half-way between these two stood the principal gateway, the Porte Portalet, from which the street R. Portalet leads directly up to the *Place Massillon, containing the fish-market, a bust of Massillon, and the Maison des Templiers, 12th cent., now the Hôtel de Ville. [ Massillon.] Standing with the face towards the Hôtel de Ville, we have to the left a dirty narrow street called the Rue Rubaton, in which is the house, No. 7, where Massillon, the greatest of the pulpit orators of France, was born on the 24th of June 1663. In the pulpit he appeared sedate, without gesture and parade. On one occasion, when he preached to the Court at Versailles, his sermon produced such a powerful effect on Louis XIV. that he exclaimed in the presence of the Court— “Father, I have heard several good orators and have been satisfied with them, but whenever I hear you I am dissatisfied with myself.” The language of Massillon, though noble, was simple, and always natural and just, without labour and affectation. When he preached for the first time in the church of St. Eustache in Paris his famous sermon on Matthew vii. 14, and had arrived at the peroration, the entire congregation rose from their seats, transported and dismayed. This prosopopœia, which still astonishes in the perusal, has been chosen by Voltaire in the article “Eloquence” in the Encyclopédie as an example presenting “la figure la plus hardie, et l’un des plus beaux traits d’éloquence qu’on puisse lire chez les anciens et les modernes.” His father, who spelt his name Masseilhon, was a notary. The business was continued from father to son in the same house from 1647 to 1834.
Hyères: St. Paul. St. Louis.
Above the “Place” is the church of [St. Paul], 12th cent., on a terrace commanding a view towards the sea. The figures by the side of the altar represent the apostles Peter and Paul. In the clumsy modern addition to the church is an ancient baptismal font.
At the low part of the town, in the Place Royale or de la République, is the church of [St. Louis], built in the 12th cent. in the Byzantine style and restored in 1840. The floor is 11 steps below the entrance. The quadripartite vault is supported on lofty wide-spanned arches. The pulpit, of walnut, is beautifully carved. The 19 stalls display elegance and originality of design in the form and arrangement of the canopies. The confessionals are also tastefully carved, and are set into the wall. Behind the altar, to the right, is a large and remarkable picture representing the landing of St. Louis with his queen and their 3 children on the beach of Hyères (the Plage du Ceinturon) on the 12th of July 1254, when the royal family were the guests of Bertrand de Foz in the castle. The other picture, which is modern, represents St. Louis about to enter Notre Dame of Paris. The statue over the fountain in this square, the Place de la République, represents Charles of Anjou and Provence, 9th son of Louis VIII. of France, and brother of Louis IX. In 1245 Charles married the great heiress the Countess Beatrice, which event closed the independent political life of Provence by uniting it to the house of Anjou. In 1257, on the principle that might is right, he dispossessed Count Foz of the castle and territory of Hyères. At the western end of the town is the Place des Palmiers, with palms planted in 1836. Those which adorn the Boulevard des Palmiers were planted in 1864, and came from Spain. Napoleon I. lodged in the house No. 7 of the Place des Palmiers after the siege of Toulon. Around Hyères are numerous nursery-gardens, and on the plain, down by the Avenue de la Gare, is the “Jardin d’Acclimatation,” where animals, birds, and plants are reared for the Jardin d’Acclimatation of Paris, of which it is a branch. These gardens form a most enjoyable and amusing retreat, are well sheltered, and plants, flowers, and milk are sold in them. Open to the public.
Hyères: Costebelle.
From the railway station to the sea extends a tract called the [Costebelle], about 2½ m. from N.E. to S.W., on the wooded slopes of the Montagnes des Oiseaux. The winter here is exceptionally mild, and some of the villas stand in little hollows clothed with pine and olive trees. Near the southern end of Costebelle, on Hermitage Hill, 320 ft. above the sea, is the chapel of Notre Dame d’Hyères, visited by pilgrims. From this hill are lovely views, not obstructed by trees. In the valley on the western side are old olive trees.