The South of France—East Half

by C. B. Black

“It is impossible to convey in words anything like a correct idea of the splendour of the prospect on a clear day from Monte Bignone; it must be seen to be appreciated; it has been described as one of the finest in Europe. The excursion is one which may be safely undertaken with ordinary precautions, and is within the compass of any person of fair health and strength. An additional charm consists in the number of rare and beautiful wild flowers, which are different from those found at a lower elevation. Amongst the most noticeable of these is the blue Hepatica, Anemone, Hepatica L., a pink variety of which is sometimes met with, the pink cyclamen-like flower, Erythronium Dens Canis L. with its trefoil-like and spotted leaves; in shady places the Primrose, Primula acaulis All.; everywhere over the summit

of the mountain the Cowslip, Primula veris; two species of Gentian, Gentiana verna and G. acaulis L.; Ophrys fusca Link, also a species of Asphodel, Asphodelus albus Willd.; Saxifraga cuneifolia; Sempervivum arachnoideum L.; and lastly, in shady dells, Daphne laureola L. With two or three exceptions, these flowers were found in blossom at the end of April, but they had been so for some weeks previously. On my way up the San Romolo valley I noticed many plants of Helleborus fœtidus L., as also for the first time in flower the large and handsome pink Cistus, C. albidus L.; this is the species so commonly found above the region of the olive trees.” —San Remo and the Western Riviera, by Dr. Hassall.

[San Remo to Taggia], there and back, cab, 1 horse, 8 frs.; 2 horses, 12 frs., with ½ hr. rest; by coach, 2 horses, for the day, 20 frs. Or from San Remo by rail to Arma, whence omnibus to Taggia, 10 sous. Donkey from Taggia to Lampedusa, 2 frs. The best place for refreshments in Taggia is the Albergo d’Italia, formerly the palace of the Marquis Spinola. The stream Taggia or Argentina is crossed by a long curved bridge of unequal arches. From the east end of this bridge a steep road leads up to the town of Castellar, whence a well-kept path ascends to the chapel of the Madonna di Lampedusa. From both places there are charming views. The Taggia road ascends the valley the length of Triora, by the village of Badalucco.

Taggia.

MENTON
GENOA 21½ 79 [TAGGIA], pop. 5000, on the Giabonte, 3 m. from the station. An omnibus awaits passengers (½ fr.) In Taggia it halts at the Locanda d’Italia, at the termination of the Via Curlo; whence commences the road to Castellar, situated upon a hill on the opposite side of the river, and about ½ hour’s walk from Taggia. Castellar is visited on account of the gaudy sanctuary and the view from the hill. Taggia, though a poor dirty town, with steep, narrow, and slippery streets, has two very fair churches. At No. 1 Via Soleri—the principal street in the town—is the habitation of Giovanni Ruffini (Dr. Antonio). To reach it, on entering the town, after having passed through the archway, take the street to the left, the Via Ruffini, then, first left, the Salita Eleonora. On the beach, near the Taggia station, is the little port of Arma, with the ruins of a fort built in the 15th cent. 2 m. farther east by rail is San Stefano, pop. 600, at the foot of Mont Colma, with a climate like that of San Remo.

Porto Maurizio. Oneglia.

MENTON
GENOA 31 69½ [PORTO MAURIZIO], pop. 8000. Hotels: France; Commerce.

[Porto Oneglia], pop. 8000, H. Victoria, on the opposite sides of a small bay. The most important part of San Maurizio is the high town,

containing the principal church, of which the porch consists of a double row of Corinthian columns flanked by two square towers. The interior represents the Roman-Greek style met with in all the churches on this coast, only here the details are more elaborate and more highly finished. The roof, instead of being plain barrel-vaulted, is divided into arches, domes, and semi-domes, resting on massive piers with attached Corinthian pillars. The soffits of the arches and domes are covered with diaper mouldings, with rich friezes and dentils along the edges. The form of the pulpit is graceful, and the staircase nearly hidden. Many of the old houses have handsome cornices over their windows and doorways. A good and much-frequented road, or rather promenade, connects Porto Maurizio with Oneglia, about a mile distant, beautifully situated at the mouth of the Impero. This is the birthplace of Admiral Andrea Doria, 1466. After passing through a long tunnel we reach the Port of Diano Marina. The broad valley inland up the Piètro is covered with fine olive trees. Farther east is Cervo, on an eminence overlooking the station and the sea. Then Laigueglia, with gardens full of orange trees. From Laigueglia a fine smooth beach extends all the way to

Alassio.