[ Fiesole.]
At the east side of the town, by the Via Alfieri or Pinti, is the Protestant cemetery, between the Boulevards Eugenio and Amedeo, the latter leading northwards to the Piazza Cavour with the Porta S. Gallo. From this Porta commences the road to the Etrurian city of Faesula, the modern Fiesole, 3 miles from Florence, and about 600 feet above it, on the summit of a ridge composed of a dark-coloured sandstone. Rail to Fiesole. Carriage there and back, 8 to 10 fr. From the Porta S. Gallo it is an easy walk of about 2½ miles. See the excellent map of the environs (Dintorni) of Florence, published by the “Istituto Topografico Militare,” 1 fr. Beyond the Porta S. Gallo take the road leading up the left or east bank of the Mugnone for about 1 mile, as far as the Villa Palmieri, where, in 1348, Boccaccio wrote his Decameron. From this the road ascends between walls about 1 mile more to the Church and Convent of S. Domenico, in which Beato Angelico was one of the monks. The church contains an Annunciation by Empoli; a Baptism of Christ by Credi; a St. Francis by Cigoli; and in the choir a Virgin with Saints by B. Angelico. Near S. Domenico is the Villa Landore, which was occupied for many years by Walter Savage Landor. The road striking off to the left or towards the Mugnone, leads to the venerable abbey of La Badia di Fiesole, rebuilt in 1462 by Brunelleschi. The road from St. Domenico to Fiesole is rather steep, and passes, at about two-thirds of the way, the beautiful old mansion with terraced gardens called the Villa Mozzi or Spence, once a favourite residence of Lorenzo il Magnifico, and the place in which the Pazzi conspiracy was formed in 1478. A short way beyond, the road enters the Piazza of Fiesole (pop. 11,500. Inns: Locanda
Firenze; Trattoria l’Aurora), famous for views and stone-quarries. One side of the Piazza is occupied by the Cathedral, dedicated to St. Romulus, commenced in 1028, and in form resembling S Miniato. To the right of the high altar is the mausoleum of Bishop Salutati, and a marble tabernacle by Mino da Fiesole in 1465. The frescoes on the ceiling of the chancel are by Ferrucci; and the statue of St. Romulus in a sitting posture by Luca della Robbia or his nephew. In a garden behind the church are the remains of a Roman theatre. The road passing this garden leads to the ruins of the ancient walls, formed of huge uncemented blocks, not parallel, but of different sizes, and some of them indented into each other. Fronting the Cathedral is the commencement of a little stony road leading up to the terrace of a Franciscan convent, commanding a glorious view, and to the church of S. Alessandro, with columns of Cipollino marble.
S. Salvi—Vencigliato—Settignano.
[S. Salvi. Vencigliato. Settignano.]—1¼ mile east from the Porta S. Croce, by the road following the railway, is S. Salvi, containing a Last Supper, by A. del Sarto, in the refectory. From S. Salvi northwards to the Via Settignano, which follow for 1½ mile eastwards, then take the road to the left going northwards, and crossing the Mensola above its union with the Frassinaia, is the [Castle of Vencigliato], founded in the 10th cent., 5 miles north-east from the Porta S. Croce, and situated on the summit of a hill commanding a splendid view. In 1860 it was restored at the expense of an Englishman, Temple Leader. 1¼ mile east from the part of Settignano road, whence the Vencigliato road ramifies, is [Settignano], the birthplace of Michael Angelo.
Straw-plaiting gives employment to numerous females around Florence. The wheat used is sown in March, and is cut before the grain is ripe. The straw is then divided into pieces from 6 to 8 inches long, and exposed for sale in the markets in small bunches. In this state it is bought by the plaiters, who in their turn expose for sale yards of plaited straw to the hatters.
The vin ordinaire given at the restaurants of Florence is principally the Vino Monteferrata, which, when two or three years old, resembles an inferior dry claret. In Savoy and Tuscany large flat cakes are made of ground chestnuts. They are sold hot, have a sweetish taste, and are very nourishing to those who can digest them.
[Excursion to Vallombrosa], Camaldoli, and Alvernia to the east of Florence. (See [Map on page 199].)
To Vallombrosa. Take rail to [Pontassieve], 13 miles east from Florence, pop. 11,000. Inn: Italia; where hire coach for Pelago,
6 miles east. Fare, 6 fr. Pelago (pop. 2000). Inn: Buon Cuore; whence mule, 5 fr., guide, 2 fr., to Vallombrosa, 8 miles south. Or coach as far as Tosi, about 5½ miles from Pelago, and the rest by mule or on foot. At Pontassieve a carriage for two at 12 fr. per day, or for four at 20 fr. per day, may be hired for visiting the three sanctuaries. Having visited Vallombrosa, return to Pelago, and proceed to Bibbiena, 15 miles east, by the Consuma, Borgo alla Collina, and Poppi, 4 miles from Bibbiena. From Bibbiena mules or horses must be hired for Alvernia, 2 hours distant. From Alvernia a fatiguing path leads to Camaldoli, in about 6 hours. The better plan is to go to Camaldoli from Bibbiena, distant 4 miles northwards from Bibbiena.