Pic de Ferrand. Lake Pavin.
3 m. S. from Sancy or 8 from Mont-Dore is Vassivières, a poor hamlet on a tableland, 4266 ft., with a church built in 1595, containing a miracle-working image, discovered while digging for water a little to the W. of the church. It spends four months of the year at Vassivières, and the rest in the church of Besse. It is carried between the two places with all the pomp possible; the iron crosses on the road indicate the resting stations. 2¼ m. E. from Vassivières, or 10¼ m. from Mont-Dore, on the road to Besse, is the [Lac-de-Pavin], 3928 ft. above the sea, in the crater of an extinct volcano, but not full to the brim. It is 2625 ft. long, 2462 ft. wide, and 315 ft. deep, completely surrounded, excepting at the outlet, by vertical cliffs from 300 to 500 ft. high. Boats are let for sailing and fishing on this singular lake. At the S. end rises the Puy Montchal, 4629 ft. At the foot of Montchal, S. side, is the Creux-de-Sancy, a circular cavity 55 ft. deep, at the bottom of which a stream of water is seen, supposed to come from Lake Pavin.
3 m. E., or 13 from Mont-Dore by an excellent road, is Besse-en-Chandesse, 3399 ft., on the slope of a mountain. Inns: Voyageurs; Commerce; pop. 2000, the wealthiest town in the neighbourhood, and excellent headquarters for visiting this region. It contains some 14th and 15th cent. houses and most of its old gates, one having the belfry or Tour du Beffroi built over it. In the centre of the town is
the house Queen Marguerite de Navarre inhabited; now it is converted into shops and dwellings.
Murols.
From Besse go 5¾ m. N. to [Murols], 13 m. E. from Mont-Dore, on the highway between Mont-Dore and Issoire. The road to Murols discloses beautiful views of Limagne as it passes Montredon, Chomeilles, Breuil, St. Victor, and Bessoles. As most of the houses in Murols (Inn: Nierat, pop. 700) have been built of material taken from the castle, many have escutcheons and sculptured stones on their walls. On a cone of basalt, 3186 ft., overlooking the village, are the ruins of a formerly important castle, 12th or 13th cent., and favourite residence of the lords of Murols et d’Estaing. From the top of the repaired tower is a beautiful and extensive view, embracing Besse, St. Victor, Lake Pavin, the Chaudefour valley, Chambon with its lake, Varennes, the Dent-de-Marais, and Tartaret. 13 m. W. from Murols is Mont-Dore, passing on the left the Puy du Tartaret, 2953 ft., Lake Chambon, 2625 ft. above the sea, considered one of the prettiest lakes in Auvergne. A little farther W. is the village of Chambon, 40 ft. higher than the lake, pop. 1000, on the Couze and Surrain at the foot of a granite mountain.
The journey from Mont-Dore to the Pics de Sancy and Ferrand and back is 11 m.; but if it be prolonged round by Vassivières, Besse, and Murols the entire distance is 32 m.
Salon du Capucin. Vallée d’Enfer.
A very pleasant promenade is to the [Salon du Capucin], recommended as well as the Salon de Mirabeau for the breathing of the air from the pine forest. If on foot, cross the suspension bridge, and having reached the Jubilee cross about 600 yards from Mont-Dore, take the road to the left which enters the forest, and after having ascended a few minutes, a stone to the right will be seen bearing the inscription: “Petit Chemin du Capucin,” which take. Shortly after it divides, when take the left. At last the path enters a large open space surrounded by beeches, where several roads meet. The road to the left goes to the Vallée d’Enfer, to the right to the Rigolet, and the road in front to the Salon, which is quite near. The path which divides the Salon into two parts leads up to the top of the Rocher du Capucin, 4807 ft. above the sea, about 2 m. S. from Mont-Dore, commanding a charming view. It owes its name to the detached pinnacle, like a monk’s hood, called the Aiguille du Capucin, which is rather difficult to ascend.
To go to the [Vallée d’Enfer] return to the open glade and take the Enfer path which leads to the valley by the Vallée Lacour, ¾ m. long, near the top of which, at the Rocher de Courlande, 5325 ft., is the opening where those on foot climb over to the Vallée d’Enfer; those on horseback have to pass round by Burens. The Vallée d’Enfer is an arid narrow gorge between naked volcanic cliffs traversed by vertical dykes. From the valley continue southwards to the Pic de Sancy, or return to Mont-Dore, 4¾ m. N.