The South of France—East Half

by C. B. Black

[Sights.]—Notre-Dame-de-Fourvière (see below). Drive in tram car, outside if possible, between the Place Perrache and the Brotteaux railway station, [page 31]. The [Parc de la Tête d’Or], page 40. The galleries in the [Palais des Arts], page 35. The [museum of silk manufacture], page 38.

Lyons is a strongly-fortified city, intersected by two of the largest rivers in France, the Rhône and the Saône, which form as they approach each other the isthmus, 545 ft. above the sea, on which the finest part of the city is built. This portion is traversed by three great streets, the Rue de la République, the R. de l’Hôtel de Ville, and the R. Centrale, and contains the three most important and beautiful squares, the Places Perrache, Bellecour, and Des Terreaux. The Place Perrache, in front of the station, was planted with trees in 1851. In the centre was a bronze statue of Napoleon I. by Nieuwerkerke, which was taken down in 1870 and afterwards destroyed by order of the municipality. In its place is a fountain. The Place Bellecour (Bella-Curia), 339 yards long and 328 yards wide, is also planted with trees. In the centre is an equestrian statue of Louis XIV. by Lemot, which occupies the place of a former one by Desjardins, destroyed in 1793. Trams to all the important parts of the city run through these two squares. The Place des Terreaux, flooded with human blood in 1794, during the reign of terror, has on the south side the Palais des Arts, on the east the Hôtel de Ville, and on the west a block of buildings pierced by an arcade decorated by P. Delorme and Maupin (see page 37).

The Rhône is crossed by 9 bridges, and the Saône by 13. The extent of substantial and spacious quays on both sides of these rivers measures 24 miles. For sailing on the Rhône the best steamers are the Bateaux Parisiens, starting from the quay in front of the Place Tholozan behind the Hôtel de Ville, and plying between Lyons and Avignon. For short sails on the Saône the Bateaux Mouches are very convenient, page 31.

Lyons: Notre-Dame-de-Fourvière. Rope Railway.

The most prominent building in Lyons is the church of [Notre-Dame-de-Fourvière], standing on the site of the forum erected by Trajan, the Forum Vetus or Foro Vetere; whence the term Fourvière is supposed to be derived. It ought to be visited as early as possible, even should there be no time for anything else, on account of the excellent bird’s-eye view of the city obtained from it and its terraces. At the west end of the bridge of Tilsitt across the Saône, at the upper side of

the “Place,” is the [rope railway], which ascends through tunnels the hill of Fourvière, the length of the Place des Minimes about ¾ of the way up the hill. Fare, 5 sous. From the station walk up, right hand, by the broad road, l’Antiquaille. At the highest part of this road is a large ugly edifice, the Hôpital de l’Antiquaille, especially devoted to the treatment of insanity and of cutaneous diseases. It has accommodation for 600 patients, and occupies the site of the Roman palace in which Claudius and Caligula were born. From in front of this hospital commences a narrow steep road called the Montée de Fourvière, lined nearly all the way with little shops stocked with wares for the pilgrims and devotees, such as images, crucifixes, amulets, chaplets, medals, photographs, and books. At the top are restaurants and hotels.

On the summit, 1206 feet above the sea and 410 feet above the Saône, is the chapel of the “miraculous” image of Notre-Dame-de-Fourvière, from which rises a domed tower crowned with a gilt image of Mary 6½ ft. high. This tower is ascended by 200 steps, fee 25 c., and commands a superb view of the city and environs. Lyons and its two great rivers are immediately below, while in the distance, if the weather be clear, Mont Blanc is distinctly seen. As for the sacred image itself, in the church below, it is about the size of a big doll, and the child rather less. The number of worshippers having become so great, the adjoining church, which is more elegant and much more commodious, was constructed in 1884. It stands on the very brow of the hill, and is the most prominent object in Lyons. In shape it is rectangular, with at the eastern termination an octagonal tower 115 ft. high, which forms the chancel. At each of the four corners is a similar tower, and in each of the two sides are three large windows separated by buttresses like square towers. Round the top of the building as well as of the towers extends a balustrade of stiff sculpture resembling acanthus leaves. The large buildings in the neighbourhood are convents. Lyons: Observatoire Gay.
St. Paul. A little eastward is the “[Observatoire Gay],” from which a steep path, the Montée des Carmes Déchaussées, 536 yards long, descends to the city, reaching it by the side of the station of the [Chemin de Fer des Dombes] (page 30). Near this station is the church of [St. Paul], all modern excepting the beautiful N. portal, the handsome octagonal lantern resting on pendentive arches, a few of the windows, and part of the walls which belonged to the original church of the 11th cent. The old walls which remain in all the early churches of Lyons are characterised by the enormous size of the stones of which they are composed. Beyond is the bridge of St. Vincent.

Lyons: St. Irénée.

The Terminus of the rope railway from the Pont Tilsit is at No. 42 Rue Trion, higher and to the N.W. of Fourvière and within a very short distance of the church of [St. Irénée], on the summit of a hill in the suburb of St. Just. On the terrace at the east end of St. Irénée are a Via Crucis and Calvary, commanding a superb view of the plain watered by the Rhône and the Saône. By the N. side of the church is the entrance into the crypt. The first flight consists of 25 steps; and the second, which terminates in the crypt, of eight. On the first arch across the first flight an inscription states: “Cette crypte fut construite par St. Patient evéque de Lyon au V siècle sur l’emplacement du lieu ou St. Pothin et St. Irénée, envoyés a Lyon par Polycarpe disciple de l’apôtre St. Jean, reunissaient les premiers chretiens. De nombreux martyrs y furent ensevelis.” On the second arch another inscription states that in 1562 the Calvinists having injured the crypt and thrown the bones of animals among those of the saints, Grolier, Prior of St. Irénée, restored the building, separated the bones, and placed those of the saints in that small vault to the right, at the foot of the first flight. In the centre of the crypt is a now covered up well, the original resting-place of the martyrs, down which their bodies were thrown till it overflowed with blood, in the reign of Septimius Severus, A.D. 202. To visit the calvary and crypt apply to the concierge, 50 c. The church of St. Irénée has nothing particular. To the west, in the parish of Ste. Foy, are the remains of the Roman aqueduct which brought water to the city from Mont Pilat. It was 52 miles long, and capable of supplying 11,000,000 gallons per day. At present the water-supply of Lyons is obtained from the Rhône.