The South of France—East Half

by C. B. Black

5 m. S. by rail from St. Rambert is St. Vallier, pop. 4000. Inn: Merle. On the junction of the Galaure with the Rhône. In the town is the restored castle of Anne de Poitiers, and up the valley of the Galaure are the pass of the Roche Taillée, the ruins of a château of the Dauphins, and the chapel of N. D. de Vals (see [map, page 46]).

PARIS
MARSEILLES 368 169 [TAIN], pop. 3000. Inns: H. Europe; Midi. A pleasant town on the Rhône, immediately opposite [Tournon] (page 82), and at the foot of the hill, whose vineyards produce the Hermitage wines. The red variety has a fine perfume, and is gratefully stomachic. The white is a luxurious wine, and will keep for a century, but the produce is small. Omnibus at station for Romans, 13 m. on the rail between Valence and Voiron (see [map page 46]), pop. 13,000. Inns: Europe; Midi. Situated at the confluence of the Isère with the Savasse, crossed by a bridge of 4 arches which unites it with Bourg-du-Péage, pop. 5000.

Valence.

PARIS
MARSEILLES 384 153 [VALENCE], pop. 24,000. Hotels: Louvre; Croix d’Or; France. The first the most expensive. Commodious Temple Protestant. Good Protestant schools. Suspension bridge across the Rhône. Omnibus to St. Péray, 2½ m. west. Coaches daily to Ardèche. Valence is a pleasant town on an eminence rising from the Rhône, surrounded by broad boulevards on the site of the old fortifications. The most handsome is the Place Championnet, on the site of the citadel, commenced by François. It commands an excellent view of the river and of the hills beyond. In the distance, to the right, on an arid rock, is the castle of Crussol. In this Place is the statue “au General Championnet, sorti des rangs du peuple. Hommage public de sa ville natale.” Died at Antibes 1800.

To the left of the statue is the cathedral St. Apollinaire, built in 1095, and restored in 1604 and 1730. The west portal and tower were rebuilt in 1880. The other parts of the exterior have a venerable appearance. The buttresses are shallow, and do not reach the eaves. A delicate dentil cornice runs round the building, bending over the round-headed windows and across the buttresses. Within, the church by restoration looks as if it were modern. Tall piers, with attached Corinthian columns and vaulting shafts, run up to the commencement of the arches of the aisles and of the vault of the roof, all of stone. From the semicircular chancel radiate 4 semicircular chapels, one being occupied by the organ. At the right or S. side of the altar is the bust by Canova of Pope Pius VI., who died at Valence in 1799. His remains were removed to Rome.

Outside, opposite the N. transept, is Le Pendentif, a sepulchral chapel (22 ft. square and 25 ft. high) of the Mistral family, built in 1548. On each side is a large round arch, over which rises a remarkably flat dome. Close to the “Place des Clercs” is the Maison des Têtes, built in 1531, covered with mutilated statues and medallions under canopy work. The medallions, bosses, and groining in the passage leading into the court are in a much better state of preservation. The windows in the court are square-headed, but most have lost their transoms. Among the other buildings are a Temple Protestant, 18th cent., and a picture gallery.

Vernoux. Coaches from Valence.

[Rail to Grenoble], 62 m. N.E., and to Chambery, 40 m. farther. Omnibus daily to [St. Péray] (p. 82). Coach by St. Péray to Vernoux, 18 m. W. [Vernoux] 1920 ft. above the sea, pop. 3100. Inns: Nord; Verd. Temple Protestant. One of the nicest towns in Ardèche, situated in the midst of carefully-cultivated mountains and valleys. A large proportion of the inhabitants are Protestants.

[Valence] is one of the most convenient places for entering the Ardèche. Diligences from Valence to St. Laurent-du-Pape, St. Fortunat, Les Ollières, St. Sauveur, St. Pierreville, and [Le Cheilard] (see page 83). The diligences from Valence, Soyons, Charmes, Beauchastel, and La Voulte to St. Pierreville and Le Cheilard meet at St. Laurent-du-Pape; whence the passengers are conveyed in two diligences the length of St. Sauveur, by St. Fortunat and Ollières. At Ollières, H. du Pont, they meet and correspond with the diligence from Privas. From St. Sauveur one diligence runs westward by the Glaire to St. Pierreville and Marcols, the other northwards to Le Cheilard. Valence is 5 hrs. from St. Sauveur. Beauchastel and La Voulte, 4 hrs. St. Sauveur to Pierreville, 2½ hrs.; and to Le Cheilard, 3½ hrs. (see also [pages 93 and 94]). Coach from Valence to La Mastre, 21¼ m. W., passing by Champis, pop. 3380, at the foot of a mountain, which during a part of the day intercepts the rays of the sun.

ARDECHE
its vineyards and Extinct Volcanoes.