Both sexes are good cooks, and no wonder, as from the time they are able properly to run about, until the infirmities of old age creep on they are accustomed to shift for themselves. An English boy would fare very badly if he had to cook his own dinner, and provide for his own wants as early as some of these native children. But education and habit are everything, the latter of course is second nature.
Sunday, August 8th.—At Tasmouri. Beautiful but very warm morning. After breakfast we had Sunday School, at which every member of the village population was present. I was much pleased with the way four or five classes repeated by heart their catechism, and the collect for the week, and answered general questions on the subject. It showed one that school was a serious and important business both with teacher and pupil. We went from the school into church, where we had full Morning Service but without any Sermon. Service over, I was followed by the whole male population to Tasmate. The day was very hot, and we had been obliged to choose the hottest part of it for our walk. However we tumbled over the same creepers, knocked our heads against the same branches, brushed against the same bristly bushes, that the natives of Maewo have done ever since they peopled the island. No one ever thinks of trying to improve his own or his neighbour’s ways, and from being accustomed so long to the present condition of the paths, they are quite content to experience the discomfort for ever and aye, they were good enough for their own forefathers, why should not they be good enough for them. Being head and shoulders taller than most of our natives, I suffered untold agonies mentally and physically, but I submit to the necessity, knowing that unless I commence to improve matters myself, I may expect the same discomforts to the end of the chapter. My helmet on more than one occasion has saved my head very severe concussions, and to be bonnetted is no uncommon occurence. However, on we swung, I being thankful that the road was so level as it was, and at length arrived at Tasmate more fit to be comforted than to think of administering comfort to others. They have built a nice little school here, and by the way they turned up at the subsequent service it was manifest that they knew the use of it. Augmented by the Tasmouri people the little place was crowded to its fullest capabilities, and the heat and flies were not such as one would choose for ordinary enjoyment, but personal comforts with Missionaries are a secondary consideration. We had a nice service, and I gave a somewhat long address in spite of inconveniences, and when it was over I retired to the cool refreshing shade by the sea shore, and all at once everyone began to feel the heat and followed me there. However, our conversation ran in an edifying course, and I hope some were profited by it. The return home was the next consideration, and I must say it seemed formidable for a Sunday afternoon. We reached a place called “Na Seu,” and there I could not resist a bathe in the natural bathing place, under such a deliciously cool shoot of water. We came home by a new route which was said to be much shorter, but it turned out to be quite as long I think, and not nearly so pleasant walking.
At “Uta riki,” where I formerly remember a good population, one man and a small child are the only surviving remnant. The rest are all scattered or dead. We asked him to come to Tasmouri and live there, but he would not consent on the spur of the moment. His son and relations left are mostly there. In matter of wives he has been a regular Blue Beard, and the last of a long list has just died, and left him a widower.
We arrived in due course at Tasmouri, and after dinner all together, which the women had provided in our absence, we had Evensong, a very nice service with a Sermon from me. The women proposed singing afterwards, and this went on till late. At the Evening Service I Baptized the infant daughter of Moses, naming her Anika. Moses, wife, and four children are now a Christian family. His care of, and love for, his children gave me good food for my discourse afterwards, as did the case of ‘Dimeli’ and the remnant of his people migrating from the place where many had died, to a place where all were going to keep well and live, with the result that all have died with the exception of himself. There was no hope of life apart from God.
Monday, August 9th.—Very hot, oppressive day, and I was so ill throughout I did little or nothing. My efforts to get cool were utterly abortive. Great Christening festivities were going on all day. The fatted pig was killed and eaten with much thankfulness and rejoicing in the evening. At Evensong I screwed my courage up to a Sermon which was better listened to than delivered. Afterwards there was a dance.
Tuesday, August 10th.—I saw this morning a beardless youth, who is the tenth husband of a woman in the district. One of her sons is a full-gown man at Tasmouri, himself married many years. There is no accounting for taste, but on which side the love or taste is I do not know. Beauty of face and figure have little weight generally with natives, they think more of utility and position. They seem to me to have no idea of the sublime and beautiful either in woman or in nature according to our ideas, and in a very matter of fact way look to the practical side of the business. Polygamy here is the exception, and there is not so large a percentage of females as is found in some of the islands. However, if they are all as easily satisfied as the youth mentioned above, young girls will be at a premium. There is one man here at Tasmouri who has two wives, and he steadily refuses to divorce one or the other with a view to Baptism, and according to our present practice in the administration of that Holy Rite, we insist on monogamy. Strangely enough the son of this very man had five wives, four of whom he divorced in order to be Baptized. All the four divorced are now married and Baptized at Tasmouri.
It was so intolerably hot in the village, I proposed that we should go to Ron̈onawo, as I was going to Tasmate to sleep and that was about a half-way house. All the population followed me, and there we cooked our dinner and rested. After the meal we had a short service there on the beach which was very quiet and solemn, and then with most of the men I turned my steps towards Tasmate, Samuel and a few others, with the women going back to Tasmouri. There was a great shaking of hands, some profusion of tears among the women, and a great deal of Christian harmony between us all.
Arriving at Tasmate we found another dinner awaiting us, and a hearty welcome. We had Prayers after dinner with a sermon from myself, in which I contrasted the present visit with those they must remember to have known in heathen days. Then the hands were full, but the heart was empty, now the heart was full of love and the hands carried no bow and arrows. We had great Hymn singing afterwards, and the men sat and talked outside about the present and the past. There are a few hearts here I can see being prepared for the good seed which may God sow in His good time, quickly if it may be, and water the plant of grace with the dew of His Holy Spirit.
We were rather late before we thought of retiring, and I was not sorry at length when it was proposed, for without chair or seat, except a native tree, there was no great pleasure in sitting.
Wednesday, August 11th.—Spent a very uncomfortable night at Tasmate. The kind people had done all they could to make me comfortable, but I found the bed very hard, the sleeping quarters very rough, the fleas in large numbers, and the mosquitos very lively. However, I have been more uncomfortable, and I was not unthankful to be brought safely to the beginning of another day. A place was named to me last evening called “Beitabu,” as being a most choice spot for a bathe, and it was said to be near at hand. Having not many toilet requisites with me, I proposed to one “Lulu” a denizen of the place to pilot me there. I was very “breakfasty” and most unrefreshed, but away we started for “Beitabu.” It was a fearful grind to get there, and the distance seemed to me interminable. Of course being well watered there were irrigated taro beds, and I slipped off a bank clean into the mud. Yet when the spot was reached it made up for all difficulties and distresses and proved to be a most marvellous natural bath, a large, clear, deep pool, with water pouring in from a charming little waterfall, and flowing out rapidly over the rocks below. I do not know when I have enjoyed a bath more, or when water had a more invigorating and refreshing effect on me. Fortunately my host had what breakfast there was ready for me when I got back, and in my state of exhaustion it did not much matter what it was. After breakfast we had Morning Prayer with a short address from me instead of school. Not long after “sail oh!” was cried and my boat appeared to bring me back here to Tanrig, and heartily glad am I to be back here again in comparative comfort. We had a pleasant but rather heavy row up the coast, our party on board numbering twenty-eight. Fortunately the sea was very smooth, and not much wind, or probably we should not have fared so well. All my Tasmouri friends came on with me and are spending the night. All were well here and the place looked much as usual. One little baby had died unbaptized during my absence, a matter of great regret to everybody, and very much so to me. I had known of the child’s illness, and it was better before I left. I had therefore postponed its Baptism until I could make it convenient to Baptize three or four more infants now waiting for the Rite.