Wednesday, 14th July.—We were to-day somewhere in the neighbourhood of Walpole Island, a flat, uninhabited island lying by itself in mid ocean, on which myriads of sea birds have their dwelling, and lay their eggs and hatch their young. The weather was somewhat hazy, so we got no sight of the sun although the Captain was anxious to do so, not having been able to see that orb either to-day or yesterday. The ‘dead reckoning’ alone showed him our probable whereabouts, but he was not able to get any definite position laid down. Shoals of fish were seen about the ship to-day, and the boys perched on the bowsprit end succeeded in cleverly catching two fine skipjacks, one of which we had cooked for dinner, and which was pronounced as very good eating. No bait is required for these fish, a line, rod, and hook to which a piece of red rag is attached, are requisite, and the motion of the vessel makes the tempting object skip along the surface of the water, to which the fish rises and swallows hook and all. They are large fish, and peculiarly strong, especially with their tails. At times they breach out of the water to a great height, the motive power being seated in their tails. One of the boys unadvisedly took hold of one of those caught to-day too near the tail, and the fish lashing out struck him on the forefinger, and at first I fancied had sprained it, for the whole hand swelled, and he was in considerable pain for some time. This evening it was very quiet and pleasant, and the moon added to the pleasantness of the occasion. It is wonderful to mark how the days lengthen as we go further North, and how the weather grows warmer. Soon we shall dispense with waistcoats, and bye and bye coats will likewise go, except at meals and at prayers. We saw nothing of Walpole Island, and the Captain got no sight of the sun again to-day.
Thursday, 15th July.—This morning we were well up with Anaiteum, the first of the New Hebrides group, and belonging to the Presbyterians who have been established there a great number of years. Soon after Tanna appeared in view, and later on in the day Eromango. We could not see the volcano at Tanna, so that we cannot speak of its activity or otherwise. We passed close under Eromango, and for some time the water was quite smooth. We had a most beautiful wind all day, the real S.E. Trades, and we were enabled to make good progress towards our first place of call. Everyone on board seems to have sprung into life with the sight of land, and no doubt many see in the islands we are passing the anticipation of their own homes. Most of our passengers are from the New Hebrides and Banks’ groups, of which these three islands are the commencement. It was most beautiful all day and the evening especially enjoyable; the Captain wisely remarked that if it were always so fine, there would be too many sailors, or at least persons who would want to go to sea. Melanesian islands are disappointing as viewed at a distance from the sea, for they are like any other place, but the great beauty of them is seen on nearer inspection and ashore. These three islands and the Loyalty group are not so thickly wooded as some farther North.
Friday, July 16th.—Strong S.E. Trades, and we moved along rapidly all day, doing over two hundred miles. We found ourselves in the evening running through the passage between Ambrym and Pentecost at the South end of which we expected to find Mr. Brittain, who had been left there when the ship went back to Norfolk Island. We stood quite close into the place, but receiving no manner of response from the shore we began to suspect that after all the bird had flown. The vessel stood off and on all the night, and it certainly was more comfortable than usually is the case under the like circumstances. The vessel rode very quietly all night, and on
Saturday, July 17th.—We were early off our place of call, and seeing no signs ashore the boat was lowered and I took the steer oar in a furious wind and a heavy sea. The approach to and departure from this place were as nasty as could be, and I was not sorry to be on board all right again. Mr. Brittain had left some time before, and our visit was futile except that we brought off his things. The people were quiet and well behaved, and Tom (the teacher) was in great form. Tom, having been educated in Sydney, speaks remarkably good English and is evidently held in respect by his people. Their dress and appearance are very like their neighbours of Ambrym, and the women wear the flaxen petticoat also like the Ambrymese. Their language, too, I believe, is akin, the distance separating the two islands not being more than five or six miles. Tom is building a very nice school, and there seems a large population. A big, chiefly looking man was sitting on the beach as we were coming away, and Tom told me that he was the chief of the place. I had brought nothing with me from the ship, and the boys had nothing, so the best I could do for the great man was to give him a tin of sardines which I got out of one of Mr. Brittain’s boxes. I dare say he would have preferred tobacco, but he seemed as satisfied as natives usually appear to be, for they are not generally very demonstrative or profuse in their thanks. The tide was falling fast so we had to beat a hasty retreat and got off with some considerable difficulty.
Poor Tom must find life at home somewhat of a change to the ‘easy life’ he enjoyed in Sydney. I believe he was very much scandalized when he first got home at the outrageously indecent dress of his countrymen. He himself still dons the Sydney costume, but minus boots. Poor boy! I dare say he dreamed in Sydney of the reforms he would endeavour to effect when he got home, but the stern difficulties in the way he now begins to realize. Oh! Missionary work seems easy enough when viewed from an arm chair at a distance of many thousand miles, the difficulties only become apparent when the man is brought into close connection with his work, and has to grapple in a stubborn, persistant hand to hand fight with the Evil one. Poor Tom! I suppose he will try a little at first to stem the tide, and failing in that, will drift along with the stream. To a poor youth like that the difficulties of his position must seem stupendous and insurmountable. Nothing but the grace of God is sufficient for such. I dare say ere now his bright vistas and day dreams are being only too rudely dispelled, for he will have to find out like all other Missionaries that Christians are not made by machinery, or believers made such in a day; it is a long and weary process, but labour is not in vain in the Lord. Once more on board, the boat was hauled up, and on we started for the North end of the island where now we hoped to find Mr. Brittain. We saw a Labour vessel at anchor along the coast, and got to our own anchorage about 4 p.m. Mr. Brittain came off in his boat very sick, and with some difficulty got on board. He has been ill three weeks and was very anxious for the return of the vessel. During the evening he brightened up a good deal and I dare say felt much better for the society of his white brethren. He gave a very sad account of the state of things ashore, great sickness and considerable mortality. We had a very quiet night at anchor, and determined to stay here till Monday. We had some boys to land, and the boats were going forth and back all the evening. The clatter alongside was fearful owing to the large number of canoes that put off to the ship and every occupant speaking at the same time. They used to be a very noisy crowd, but have much improved of late years. It was a most glorious night at anchor and not excessively hot. We consider that we have done very well to be here so soon with the bad start from Norfolk Island. How the boys and girls did enjoy the fruits of their own islands again, especially green cocoanuts and soft sugar cane! And how pleasing was it too, as well as entertaining, as the shades of evening closed in, to watch the coy and shy flirtations of the young married couples on board; one or two were quite oldfashioned at the process, but Charles and Monica especially were somewhat more bashful. The young bridegrooms were most attentive to their respective spouses on the voyage but necessarily lived apart. The boys and men all live together in the schoolroom, and the girls and married women aft. There are as yet no married people’s apartments, we shall look for those when we get a bigger ship.
Sunday, 18th July.—Quiet and peaceful day at Araga. The natives regarded the observance of Sunday so strictly that they troubled us very little with their noisy chatter, indeed very few canoes came off at all to the ship, and we were able to have an uninterrupted day of rest. Our services began at 10 a.m. with English Prayers. We chanted the Venite, read the Te Deum, and sang the Jubilate besides singing the Glorias in the Psalms, and two hymns. We had therefore full Mattins with a short address to which the men paid very good attention. I tried to make the discourse as easy and lively as possible, and interspersed a few anecdotes among my remarks, which I think, being appropriate, were appreciated. The service lasted just three quarters of an hour so that the men were not wearied. It was not a very hot day, but beautifully bright and glorious. Shorewards it looked most lovely, the bright sunshine lighting up the vegetation with a silver sheen, everything seeming to catch the infection from the King of Day, who rejoiced as a giant to run his course. On board a gentle breeze cooled the air, and under the awning and down below alike it was bearably comfortable and refreshing.
At 11 o’clock we had service in Mota, at which we had the attendance of all the Melanesians of both sexes in the ship, and a very hearty, cheering service it was. I reserved my address to them for the evening and before noon our religious duties for the morning were over. We dined at 1 o’clock and in the afternoon Mr. Turnbull and myself went ashore. This was his first experience in these islands and he was duly impressed with the natural beauty everywhere apparent, and the good nature of the people. It was nearly high water when we went in over the reef, and the clearness of the sea, the beauty of the coral bed, the dear little blue and vari-coloured fish which flitted about produced their due effect on him. The white beach, too, with its background of most luxuriant green rising from the base and clothing in marvellous profusion the tops of the hills greatly delighted him. The climb up the hill somewhat dispelled the fancy, but one could well imagine oneself in some semi-fairy land so strangely beautiful as it all looked. We were in a very liquid state when we reached the school about three quarters of a mile up the hill, and green cocoanuts were very acceptable. Here we found in the midst of all the loveliness a poor little child dying amid squalor and destitution. The poor young mother was sitting over it and crying her heart out. Her son had been buried the day before and there seemed not a particle of hope for the elder sister. I said what I could to comfort the mother, but it was too late to do anything for the child. The father with a third child was walking up and down disconsolately outside. The sight had its effect on me, for the father bears the honoured name of my great friend Bishop Key of Kaffraria, the mother bears my wife’s name, and the little dying one the name of my own daughter, the boy too who died the day before was called “Bailey” a cognomen revered by all Augustinians as the name of its late Warden.
Poor things! May God give them all the comfort of His grace, the only balm for a troubled and afflicted soul.
We walked about the village for a time and everything being utterly new and strange to Mr. Turnbull he was very much charmed. We visited old Sarawia who was once, and I dare say now is, the chief man in the place. He still looks much the same as ever but professed himself to be failing in health, and suffering from a sort of paralysis in his left leg. It does not seem however as if he intended to die just yet for he has lately taken two or three additional wives. We also saw the great wind and rain maker, but he said he had given up the trade now, and came to school regularly. Formerly he used to derive a good income from it I believe.
The houses and gamals (men’s quarters) here are most squalid and wretched, but the people seem content, and don’t trouble themselves much about their habitations, but what they shall eat or drink is a prominent consideration in all their minds. Their great treasures here are pigs and mats, and a man’s wealth and standing is measured by his possession in these. After proceeding through various grades if a man can kill one hundred pigs at a feast he is looked upon as a man of importance and his name is handed down to posterity as a great man, and I believe by that means his fare is prepaid to the realms of the Blest. The reverse I believe obtains with those who possess no treasures and kill no pigs. Everyone therefore in the interval between his advent into this world and his departure from it, endeavours to slaughter according to custom one pig or more, or the consequences will be terrible if not here at least hereafter.