Fine French Pomades (Flower Pomades).—In France, especially in the southern part, where the cultivation of the various flowers, such as roses, violets, mignonette, héliotrope, etc., is carried on on an extensive scale, the fine pomades are prepared by the method previously mentioned (see [p. 58] et seq.).
The maceration or extraction of the flowers is effected as follows: The fat, generally consisting of 3 parts lard and 1 part beef-tallow, is melted in an enamelled vessel over the steam or water-bath. The flowers in a clean linen bag are suspended in the fat, and after covering the vessel the fat is kept, according to the strength of the perfume of the respective variety of flower, for a day or two more at a temperature of from 133° to 145° F. The extracted and exhausted flowers are then taken out, slightly pressed out, and thrown away. The same operation with always the same quantities of fresh flowers is then repeated ten to twelve times with the same fat, until it is sufficiently perfumed. The pomade thus obtained, to which some white vaseline is frequently added, is then stirred until cold.
Receipts for some flower pomades are here given:—
Pommade à la rose.—Extract, in the manner above given, with 6 lbs. of lard and 2 lbs. of beef-tallow, both thoroughly purified, 8 lbs. of fresh rose leaves. Treat the fat ten to twelve times in the same manner with an equal quantity of fresh rose leaves.
Pommade à l'acacia.—Extract 6 lbs. of fresh acacia flowers with 20 lbs. of fat, and repeat the operation ten times with a like quantity of fresh flowers.
Pommade à la fleur d'orange.—Extract 8 lbs. of fresh orange flowers with 8 lbs. of fat, and repeat the operation eight times with a like quantity of fresh flowers.
Pommade à l'héliotrope.—Extract 8 lbs. of fresh héliotrope flowers with 8 lbs. of fat, and repeat the operation eight to ten times with an equal quantity of fresh flowers.
All simple French pomades, for which flowers furnish the perfume, are prepared in a similar manner. For pomades are chiefly used the flowers of the geranium, jasmine, mignonette, hyacinth, tuberose, narcissus, lily, etc., the pomades as a rule receiving the name of the perfume imparted to them.
Pomades according to the German Method. Most of the pomades consumed in Germany are prepared from fresh, purified lard and beef-tallow, though sometimes additions of wax, spermaceti, stearin, castor-oil, cocoanut oil, etc., are made, or the pomade is entirely composed of the latter fats. For inferior qualities of pomades, borax is much used, since it not only possesses the property of combining a quantity of water with the fat, but also makes the pomade more durable. Soap dissolved in hot water is also often added to the fat, whereby not only considerable water is fixed in the pomade, but the latter also becomes very white and pliant. In regard to pomades containing borax, it may be mentioned that safranin has proved a durable substance for coloring the pomades red, while alkannin suffers alterations.