Convert the carmine to a fine powder and thoroughly triturate it with the Pomm. Rose in a porcelain mortar until no more specks of carmine are perceptible. By this trituration the salve becomes very soft and delicate, so that it can be conveniently pressed into the small boxes. A pleasing lustre is then imparted to the surface of the salve by carefully moving each box to and fro over the flame of an alcohol lamp. It may here be remarked that carmine nacarat is the best coloring matter for lip-salve, it being far more resistant than, for instance, alkannin, which, in contact with the skin, readily acquires a bluish coloration.
If lip-salve of a more solid consistency is desired, the object may be attained by the addition of a few drachms of white beeswax. However, in this case, the pomade must be melted in a water-bath, or the pomade and wax melted together. Then add the carmine, stir until cold, fill into boxes and make the surface lustrous over an alcohol flame.
Lip-salve No. 2.—Pomm. Rose No. 6 or 12, 10½ ozs., Huile antique rose No. 6 or 12, 14 drachms, white beeswax 5½ drachms, carmine nacarat 2¾ drachms.
Melt the wax in a porcelain or enamelled vessel, then add, first, the oil, combine it with the wax, then add the pomade and finally the carmine. When all this is intimately mixed, stir it until cold. The further process is the same as given for No. 1.
Paints.—The object of paints is to hide blemishes of the skin and to impart to it a different color—as a rule a youthful one—from that bestowed by nature, though under certain conditions, especially in the case of actors, they are also employed for the purpose of changing the expression of the face. A distinction is made between pulverulent, solid, liquid and fat paints.
Pulverulent Paints (Powders).—The simplest powder is wheat starch. It forms a dull white powder with a bluish lustre, and is perfectly harmless. Powdered talc, prepared in the manner previously described (p. 330), is also much used for powder. By mixing 100 parts of prepared talc, while still moist, with 12 parts of spermaceti, previously rubbed to a moist powder with some rectified alcohol, and drying at a moderate heat, a product known in commerce as "Blanc fard," or "Blanc français," is obtained.
Talc by itself not furnishing a beautiful white, it is mixed, according to circumstances, with subnitrate of bismuth (flake-white), magnesia, chalk or zinc-white. White lead, though frequently used, cannot be recommended, it being injurious to health. Subnitrate of bismuth furnishes the best white; it has, however, the disadvantage of turning brown in air containing sulphuretted hydrogen. Zinc-white does not have this defect, but lacks the lustre and pure white color.
Customary mixtures for powders are as follows:—
I. Carbonate of magnesia and wheat starch each 5 parts, prepared talc 15, zinc-white 10.
II. Carbonate of magnesia and chalk each 5 parts, prepared talc 15, subnitrate of bismuth 20.