Extrait musc.—Extracts No. 1 from Pomm. Orange, Pomm. Héliotrope, and Pomm. Cassie each 50 drachms; clove oil 4, cassia oil 2, tinctures of abelmosk and musk-root each 10, opopanax tincture 4, musk tincture 30, civet tincture 5, orris-root tincture 50.
Extrait new-mown hay.—Extracts No. 1 from Pomm. Réséda 200 drachms, Pomm. Rose 40, Pomm. Cassie 80, Pomm. Acacia 40; French rose geranium oil 4, bergamot oil 10, myrrh oil 5, tonka-bean extract 30, vitivert tincture 10, musk-root tincture 16, benzoin tincture 4.
Extrait chypre.—Extracts No. 1 from Pomm. Orange 60 drachms, Pomm. Jasmin 40, Pomm. Cassie 110, Pomm. Héliotrope 40; French rose geranium oil 6, bergamot oil 2, cedar oil 3/5, benzoin tincture 4, orris-root tincture 30, musk tincture 5, civet tincture 4, abelmosk tincture 10.
Extrait maréchal.—Extracts No. 1 from Pomm. Héliotrope and Pomm. Orange each 200 drachms, from Pomm. Jasmin 75; oils of sandal wood and cloves each 5, Portugal oil 10, cedar oil 1, rose-oil tincture from Turkish rose oil 100, orris-root tincture 75, vitivert tincture 25, civet tincture 10, musk tincture 20, bitter almond oil tincture 1½.
Extrait mousseline.—Extracts No. 1 from Pomm. Jasmin 250 drachms, Pomm. Rose 150, and Pomm. Jonquille, Pomm. Héliotrope, and Pomm. Cassie, each 125; French rose geranium oil 12½, oil of cloves 10, cassia oil 5, wintergreen oil 1, orris-root tincture 125, rose-oil tincture from Turkish rose oil 100, musk tincture 12½, civet tincture 10, vitivert tincture 37½, abelmosk tincture 25.
In compiling the abundant choice of receipts for Extraits d'Odeurs given above, the golden mean has been chosen in regard to the quality of these odors, they, when carefully prepared, giving, at a moderate cost of manufacture, a product which in most cases will satisfy the demands of lovers of perfumes. To enable the perfumer, however, to satisfy the highest demands attention is called to, and a brief explanation given of, the so-called "Extraits triple concentrés."
For the preparation of these stronger products, the employment of a stronger foundation, i. e., of more highly saturated extracts from French flower pomades, is required. For this purpose the French perfumers prepare, under No. 30, flower pomades of all odors which are exclusively used for concentrated Extraits. They are, of course, correspondingly higher in price than those prepared from No. 18, which have previously been treated of.
The method of preparing the extracts from these pomades, No. 30, is the same as previously described, the proportion of pomade to alcohol being also the same; hence for 2 lbs. of pomade 1¾ quarts of alcohol are to be used.
The proportions of volatile oils and tinctures given in the above receipts are also to be retained. The stronger extracts from the flower pomades are the only measure in the preparation of the Extraits triple concentrés, and such must be the case since the object of the concentration of the Extraits is thus completely attained by the greater prominence of the flower odors from the Extraits d'Odeurs.
For the preparation of Extraits d'Odeurs, the French perfumers also manufacture a concentrated flower extract of the various odors. This extract is simply dissolved in alcohol, the solution being effected immediately, so that this method of preparing Extraits d'Odeurs is the simplest imaginable. However, the price of such extract (1000 francs = $200 and more per kilogramme = 2.2 lb.) is a considerable item, so that most perfumers will prefer the extracts from the flower pomades as previously described.