The Assault on Mount Everest, 1922

by C. G. Bruce

INDEX

• Abruzzi, Duke of, the, [115]
• Acclimatisation, [77]–[78], [126]–[240], [288]–[289], [299]–[308]
• Altitude, zones of, [262] ff.;
  • effects of, [305].
  • See [Acclimatisation]
• Ammu Chu valley, [29]
• Army and Navy Stores, [21]
• Arun river, [39], [43], [82]–[87], [97];
  • gorges of, explored, [98]–[102]
• Avalanche on Mount Everest, [69], [282]–[285]
• Base Camp, the, [49]–[51], [124]
• Bhong Chu, river, (= Arun, [q.v.])
• Bride Peak (Baltistan), [115]
• Brown, Mr., [21]
• Bruce, Captain J. G., [8], [20], [33], [130], [325];
  • in second attempt on Mount Everest, [61]–[62], [116]–[117], [236]–[249], [254]–[257];
  • leaves Base Camp for Kharta, [65], [80], [85], [89]–[90], [95]
• Bruce, General C. G., [4]–[6], [8], [19]–[20];
  • author of the Narrative of the Expedition, [17]–[118], [130], [143]
• Bullock, Mr. G., [139], [156], [162]
• Camp IV (on North Col.), [57];
  • route to, from E. Rongbuk glacier, [125], [153]–[159], [173]–[175];
  • from main Rongbuk glacier, [259]
• Camp V (above North Col), [288]
• Camps, problem of, [141], [258], [287], [291]–[292]
• Camps I, II, and III on E. Rongbuk glacier, [52], [54]–[56], [145]–[152], [231]
• Chang La (= North Col, [q.v.]), [289], [329]
• Changtse, mountain, [158]
• Chey La, [105]
• Chiu, camp, [108]
• Cho Uyo, mountain, [72], [158], [209], [246]
• Chobu village, [104]
• Chodzong, camp, [43], [79]
• Chog La, [89]–[90]
• Chokarbo, camp, [89]–[90]
• Chomolhari, mountain, [28]
• Chomolonzo, mountain, [91]
• Chomolungmo (= Mount Everest), [123]
• Chongay, tent-mender, [21], [31], [92]–[94], [103]
• Chongay La, agent of the Shekar Dzongpen, [42], [53], [57]
• Chongray, Tibetan deity, [45]
• Chotromo, camp, [98]
• Chumbi valley, [27], [29]–[30], [38], [105], [111], [326]–[327]
• Chushar, [329]
• Cigarette-smoking, effects of, [266]–[267]
• Clothing, [186]–[188], [262], [307].
  • See [Wind-proof clothing]
• Cooks, [23], [56]
• Crampons. See [Foot-gear]
• Crawford, Mr. C. G., [8], [20], [22], [38], [227]–[228];
  • at Camp III, [168]–[169];
  • in third attempt on Mount Everest, [275], [280]–[284];
  • return to Darjeeling, [96]–[97], [114]
• Dalai Lama, the, [85], [118]
• Damtang, village, [92], [103]
• Darjeeling, [20], [22], [114]
• Dasno, Mallory’s porter, [153], [159]
• Donka La, [32], [111]
• Doya La, [66], [81]–[82]
• Dra, village, [105]
• Dreyer, Professor G., [253], [279]
• Dzakar Chu, river, [43], [81], [104]
• East Rongbuk glacier, [51], etc.
  • See [Camps I, II, III]
• Everest, Mount, [18], [114], [125];
  • compared with Mont Blanc, [231]–[233];
  • first attempt on, [58]–[60], [182]–[224], [253]–[254], [256];
  • second attempt, [61]–[62], [227]–[250], [254]–[257];
  • third attempt, [66]–[70], [273]–[286];
  • weather conditions, [18], [170]–[171], [233]–[234], [275], [292]
• Farrar, Captain J. P., [8]–[10]
• Father William, [84], [104]
• Finch, Captain George, [6], [10], [20], [22];
  • joins main body at Kamba Dzong, [38], [227]–[228]; [39], [58], [59];
  • to site of Camp I, [230]–[231];
  • at Base Camp, [231] ff.,
  • to Camp III, [234]–[235];
  • second attempt on Mount Everest, [61]–[62], [116]–[117], [237]–[250], [254]–[257];
  • starts on third attempt, but returns, [66]–[67], [251]–[252];
  • return to Darjeeling, [67], [252].
  • Author of Chapters [VII], [VIII], and [IX]
• Food, [177]–[180]
• Foot-gear, [197], [268], [293]
• Fuel, [51], [52], [93]
• Gembu (= headman), [100]
• Gnatong, bungalow, [26], [27], [112], [130]
• Gurkhas, [5], [20]
• Gyachang Kang, mountain, [72], [158], [209]
• Gyaljen, sardar, [32]–[33], [63]
• Gyamda, pony, [29], [80], [82]
• Gyang’ka-nangpa, camp, [39], [133], [136]–[137]
• Gyantse, town, [29], [110]
• Hats, Homburg, as gifts, [42], [85]
• Head-gear, [263], [268]
• Howard-Bury, Colonel, [3], [4], [8], [17], [32], [39]
• Hung Zungtrak, camp, [36]
• Hurké Gurung, naik, [32]
• Jelep La, [27], [38], [112], [131], [227]
• Jelep valley, [29]
• Jykhiop, camp, [107]
• Kalimpong, [21], [22], [27], [227]
• Kama valley, [88]–[89], [93], [171], [331]
• Kanchenjunga, [112], [114]
• Karma Paul, interpreter, [24], [45], [47], [63], [79]
• Kehar Sing, cook, [80], [92]
• Kellas, Dr., [38]
• Khamba Dzong, [32], [37], [39], [109], [228]
• Kharta valley, [65], [83]
• Kharta Shika, [83], [87]–[89]
• Khartaphu, mountain, [158]
• Khombu La, [54]
• Kosi river, [97]
• Kyamathang, village, [97], [99]–[100]
• Kyishong, camp, [106]
• Laden La, Mr., [27]
• Lal Sing Gurung, lance-naik, [32]
• Leeches, [113]
• Lhakpa La, [158]
• Lhakpa Tsering, boy, [38]
• Lhotse, [126]
• Longstaff, Dr. T. G., [19], [130];
  • first reconnaissance to site of camp III, [51]–[53], [64];
  • return to Darjeeling, [65], [252].
  • Author of Chapter [XV]
• Lumeh Camp, [104]
• Lungdo, village, [100]
• Lungtung, village, [26], [113]
• Macdonald, Mr. John, [29]–[30], [63], [72], [106], [111], [113]
• Makalu, mountain, [152], [171], [312]
• Mallory, Mr. G. L., [4], [6], [9], [19], [130];
  • attempt on Sangkar Ri, [39], [133]–[137];
  • ascends 21,000 ft. peak near Base camp, [140];
  • to Camp I, [144];
  • Camp II, [146];
  • Camp III, [148];
  • to North Col and back, [57], [152]–[160], [301];
  • at Camp III, [160]–[168];
  • establishes Camp IV, [169]–[174], [300];
  • first attempt on Mount Everest, [56]–[59], [175]–[224];
  • third attempt, [273]–[286], [308];
  • return to Darjeeling, [96]–97.
  • Author of Chapters [IV]–[VI], [X] and [XI]
• Monsoon, the, [18], [50], [58], [68], [70], [275]–[276], [292]
• Morris, Captain C. G., [8], [20], [21], [33];
  • establishes Camp I, [52];
  • meets party of second attempt on Everest at Camp III, [223];
  • conducts evacuation of Camps I–III, [66]–[71];
  • explores the Arun gorges, [95], [98]–[102]
• Morshead, Major, [4], [8], [20], [130];
  • on first reconnaissance to site of Camp III, [51]–[52];
  • arrives at Camp III, [168];
  • establishes Camp IV, [169]–[175];
  • to 25,000 ft. camp on first attempt on Mount Everest, [56]–[59], [175]–[203], [211]–[224];
  • return to Darjeeling, [64]–[65], [252]
• Mules, [27], [31], [34]
• Nepal, Maharajah of, [75], [96], [103]
• Nepalese language, [33];
  • sheep, [91]
• Ngangba La, [54]
• Noel, Captain J. B., [8], [20], [23], [85], [130];
  • at Base Camp, [50], [73]–[74];
  • to North Col with the party of second attempt on Everest, [237];
  • spends three nights there, [249], [289], [329];
  • explores the Arun gorges, [95], [98]–[102] (his own account);
  • leaves the main body and goes to Gyantse, [110]
• North Col, [55];
  • camp on, [57].
  • See [Camp IV]
• Norton, Major E. F., [6]–[7], [19], [24], [130], [131];
  • to site of Camp I, [230]–[231];
  • on first reconnaissance, [51]–[52];
  • first attempt on Mount Everest, [58]–[59], [173]–[224];
  • leaves Base camp for Kharta valley, [65], [84], [86];
  • joins the main body, [87], [89], [95];
  • botanical and zoological work, [321]–[322], [326], etc.
• Oxygen, [9]–[10], [52], [60], [69], [115]–[117], [231], [235]–[237], [243], [252]–[259], [263]–[266], [291], [294], [303]–[305]
• Pang La, [43], [334]
• Pangli, camp, [105]
• Pawhunri, mountain, [36]
• Phari Dzong, [30]–[31], [33], [111], [131]
• Pharmogoddra La, [108]
• Popti La, [92], [103]
• Porters, [5], [63], [94], [117], [286], etc.
• Pou, a cook, [151]
• Primus stoves, [151], [176]
• Pumori, mountain, [158], [247]
• Rapiu La, [152], [168], [171], [236]
• Rawlinson, Lord, [20]
• Richengong, Camp, [29]
• Rongbuk monastery, [43], [73]
• Rongbuk Lama, [45]–[47], [74]–[75], [78], [275]
• Rongli Chu, [26], [112], [114]
• Rumoo collector of plants, [322]
• Sakiathang, Camp, [89]–[91]
• Sakia Chu, [102]
• Samchang La, [89]
• Sangkar Ri, mountain, [39], [133]–[137]
• Sarabjit Thapa, lance-naik, [32]
• Sedongchen, Camp, [113]
• Serpo La, [331]
• Shekar Dzong, [39]–[41], [105]
• Sherpas, [33], [54], [63]
• Shika. See [Kharta Shika]
• Shiling, plain, [107], [136]
• Shing (= fuel), [52]
• Sikkim, [25]–[28], [110], [113], [309]–[310]
• Snow-glasses, [263]
• Somervell, Dr., [7], [10], [19], [130], [167];
  • attempt on Sangkar Ri, [39], [133]–[137];
  • ascends a [21],000 ft. peak near Base camp, [140];
  • first attempt on Mount Everest (see [Mallory]), [56]–[59], [144]–[224], [301]–[302];
  • third attempt, [273]–[286], [308];
  • return to Darjeeling, [96]–[97], [114].
  • Author of Chapters [XII] to [XIV]
• Strutt, Colonel E. L., [6], [19];
  • fixes site of Camp I, [230]–[231];
  • leader of first reconnaissance, [51]–[53];
  • returns to Camp III and visits North Col, [56]–[58];
  • return to Darjeeling, [65], [252]
• Tang La, [32], [34]
• Tashilumpo, Lama of, [85], [118]
• Tatsang, village, [39], [110];
  • nunnery, [37]
• Tea, [177], [223];
  • Tibetan tea, [46], [78]
• Tejbir Bura, lance-naik, [20], [32], [58];
  • in second attempt on Everest, [62], [234]–[244], [248], [254]–[256], [78], [81], [85]
• Teng, village and camp, [82]–[85], [96]–[97]
• Tibet, [228], [323]
• Tibetan architecture, [313]–[314];
  • atmosphere, [79]–[80], [311];
  • colour, Chap. [XIII];
  • coolies, [53]–[54], [63];
  • fauna, Chap. [XV];
  • food, [44];
  • music, [230], [315]–[318];
  • painting, [314];
  • wind, [165], [228], [332]–[333];
  • weather, [170]
• Tinki Dzong, [39], [107]–[108];
  • pass, [107], [132], [310]
• Training, [39], [118], [130].
  • See [Acclimatisation]
• Trangso Chumbab, camp, [329]
• Transport, [143], [168]
• Trateza, camp, [82]
• Tsanga, waterfall, [100]
• Tzampa (= flour), [100]
• Unna, Mr. P. J. H., [10]
• Wakefield, Dr., [7], [19], [39], [130];
  • meets the party of the first attempt on Everest, [223], [236];
  • to Camp III with party of third attempt [70], [252], [275], [280]
• Weatherall, Mr., [20]–[21]
• Wheeler, Captain E. O., [4], [147]
• Wind, [165], [172], [186].
  • See [Everest, Tibet]
• Wind-proof clothing, [59], [62], [117], [255], [259], [264], [266]–[267]
• Wollaston, Dr. A. F. R., [322], [326], etc.
• Yaru, river, [39], [107], [138]
• Yatung, [29], [131], [326]
• Yulok La, [102]

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Uniform with “Mount Everest: The Assault.”

MOUNT EVEREST.

The Reconnaissance, 1921.

By Lieut.-Colonel C. K. HOWARD-BURY, D.S.O.,

And other Members of the Expedition.

With 33 full-page illustrations and maps. Medium 8vo.

25s. net.