Fig. 38.—Chipping Knife.

Fig. 39.—(A) Strap Split and Bent in Alternate Directions. (B) Bevel End of Strap.

It is rather a difficult task for some men to cut heavy lead straight. This is easily accomplished by first marking a chalk line on the lead where it is desired to cut it off; then, taking the hammer and chipping knife, as shown in Fig. 38, dip the blade of the knife in water, lay the blade square on the line and strike the back of the blade lightly with the hammer. Mark the sheet the whole length in this manner. Then go over it again and repeat the operation, making sure that the knife is held straight. The blade of the knife must be kept wet or it will stick in the lead and cause it to glance off sideways. After it is cut any uneven spots can be planed off smooth with a small smoothing plane, set so as to take off a very light chip. The lead should now be placed in position and dressed smoothly by using a piece of pine, or other soft board, as a dresser. This must be laid on any uneven spots and then pounded down smooth with a heavy wooden mallet, after which the seams should be shaved and burned at once; or if the seams are short and it is desired to put in enough work one day to keep the burner busy the next, strips of paper 6 inches wide should be pasted over the seams to keep the dust out. Only the edges of the paper should be pasted, so that when ready to burn all that will be necessary is to take hold of one end of the paper and strip it off, leaving the seam clean and free from dust and paste and ready to shave and burn.

Fig. 40.—Roll of Lead in Position.

After the bottom is finished the sides must be put in, in such a manner as to have as few seams in an upright position as possible, as it saves considerable time to burn them when horizontal. On small chambers or tanks not over 10 feet deep the carpenter should make a staging wide enough to receive two sheets of lead and as long as the tank is deep. The bottom of the chamber should then be covered with boards, so as to prevent damage to the lead. The staging is then brought in and set up on horses, and the sheets of lead are cut off and laid on the staging. The seams are lapped, shaved and burned, after which the lead tacks or straps are cut and burned on, to support the lead when in position.

There are different ways of putting on these straps. For side lead I use strips of the lead itself about 3 inches wide and long enough to lap well onto the studding. My way is to split this strip about ½ inch deep and bend the ends in alternate directions. The edges are then cut off, as shown at A, Fig. 39, after which they are burned in place. These straps should be spaced not more than 15 inches apart, and should be placed in such a manner as to come on the upper side of the studding.