Fig. 50.—Using the Torch on a Flat Seam.
A screw and cap with a seat, such as is used on brass lamps, is obtained, and a hole punched in the cap c just large enough to receive the tube B. The screw is soldered into the opening of the can at D. The wick, which is formed of many strands of candle wicking rolled tightly together, is pulled through the tube by means of a wire hook, and left sufficiently long to lie in the space a, so that it will always lie in the alcohol. This tube is placed through the hole at D, and allowed to project about ¾ inch outside of the can. Wicking is then wound around the tube and forced into the socket formed in the screw D. The cap is then slipped over the tube at c, and screwed down tight on the wicking, which will make a tight joint at D, and will hold the tube firmly in place.
When necessary to fill the torch the tube can easily be removed and the torch filled. A separate filling screw can be used if desired. Even with this form of torch an excess of alcohol will occasionally get into the wick when used in a horizontal position and increase the size of the blaze. But when this happens the torch can be brought to an upright position for a moment, which will drain the wick and bring the blaze to its proper size.
The blow pipe for this torch is made from a piece of very small copper or brass tubing. The end intended for the tip should be bent to the angle required, as shown at f, Fig. 49. It should be fastened to the torch by means of a clamp, g, soldered to the flaring side of the torch. This clamp should be so arranged that the blow pipe can be adjusted to the requirements of the blaze. This clamp consists of a short piece of brass. A hole is drilled in one end to allow the blow pipe to pass through, while the other end is filed to fit the bevel of the can to which it is soldered. The blow pipe can be held in position with a wedge, or a hole can be drilled and tapped and a small screw inserted which will hold the blow pipe firmly in place. The tip of the blow pipe should not be larger than 1-32 inch. The rubber tube can then be attached to the projecting end of the blow pipe at h, which is then ready for use.
Fig. 51.—Cutting Metal for a Butler's Pantry Sink.
Owing to the Britannia metal melting at such a low temperature, it would be well for the beginner to practice on pieces of 2-pound sheet lead. Seams on this class of work are made by butting the edges of the metal, as these seams are not supposed to show. The seams are prepared by truing the edges and then beveling the edges with the shave hook so that when brought together a V-shaped groove is formed. This is then fluxed with a small amount of powdered rosin. A drop of the quick melting solder is then melted from the strip and allowed to drop on the seam. The flame is then applied to the sheets, and as the solder flows the flame must be kept slightly in advance of it, Fig. 50. Care must be taken to heat the sheets only enough to cause the solder to flow. Otherwise the seam will not appear full. The beginner should experience no trouble in soldering these lead seams, and when perfect control of the torch and flame is had, pieces of Britannia metal should be substituted for the lead. These seams are prepared and fluxed just as for lead.
Britannia metal is fast becoming the favorite lining for splash and drip boards on butler's pantry sinks, as also for lining the work benches in saloons. It is soft enough to allow the most delicate china to be laid on it without danger of chipping, and is also very easy to keep clean. It takes a high polish and always looks well. The method of cutting the metal for a butler's pantry sink is shown in Fig. 51, the dotted lines showing the actual dimensions of the article to be covered, while the full lines show the laps required to cover the edges of the board. This metal is harder than lead, and will not dress smooth with the dresser. Any uneven spots must be pressed down with a hot flatiron. The method of turning the edges is shown at a. The bending iron is heated and rubbed over the edge, gradually turning the edges until they are at their proper position. The iron must be constantly heated to insure the best results, and if properly done no wrinkles will appear. A lined work bench is also shown in Fig. 52, which shows the method of putting in the bar washer. The sheet metal must be cut and fitted to its place and all the seams possible should be soldered before placing the metal in position. The edges should be tacked on the under side of the work, when practicable, with copper tacks.
