On my asking the fellow if he called himself a Mussulman, he grinned, and helped at once.
April 23rd.—Started at seven for Kasvin. Lovely day, no wind, but after the first hour a good deal of sun. After three long farsakhs, came in sight of Kasvin; another farsakh, arrived at one P.M. People well-to-do. Heard that there is an hotel (!) here, but distrusted it.
Went to a fine new caravanserai, where we got a courtyard to ourselves.
Our muleteer says our beasts cannot go on, so we must perforce halt a day.
We have a grand clothes-washing and child-bathing to-day.
Settle our trunks for the sea voyage.
In the afternoon I go to see the hotel. I find what I expected, a very fine house, with bare walls, enormous charges, and impudent and dishonest servants. I should be very sorry indeed to put up there. I thrashed one fellow as it was for putting out his tongue; the rest at once became polite.
They say that the steamer goes twice a week—Sunday and Thursday.
I shall inspect the hotel again to-morrow.
There is a big tiled shrine, in which is the tomb of the son of Imām Riza. It seems in good repair, but not in good taste; also a Musjid-i Juma (big mosque), much ruined.