[14] Here are four tombs, cut in the face of the solid rock, those of Darius, Xerxes I., Artaxerxes I., and Darius II. A detailed description is to be found in Usher’s book. (See illustration.)
[15] Russian subjects are well protected in Persia, and no injury or insult to them is allowed to pass by their embassy.
[16] The present comparative dearness of provisions, such as bread, milk, eggs, etc., is compensated for by a corresponding cheapness in the price of sugar, candles, etc., which formerly were more expensive. I append a list of prices in Ispahan in 1882:—
| Kerans. | s. | d. | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Rice (per maund, 14 lbs.) | 2 | 1 | 6 | |
| Mutton ” ” | 2 | 1 | 6 | |
| Beef ” ” | 1½ | 1 | 1½ | |
| Fowls (each) | ¾ to 1 | 7d., 8d. and | 0 | 9 |
| Small chickens (each) | ⅓ | 0 | 3 | |
| Pigeons ” | 0 | 2 | ||
| Partridges ” | ½ | 0 | 4½ | |
| Eggs (40 to 60) | 1 | 0 | 9 | |
| Butter (14 lbs.) | 5 | 3 | 9 | |
| Clarified butter or ghee for cooking (14 lbs.) | 5 to 7 | 4s. to | 5 | 0 |
| Coffee, Mocha (per lb.) | 1 | 9d. to | 0 | 10 |
| Tobacco (14 lbs.) | 4 to 12 | 3s. to | 10 | 0 |
| Potatoes ” | ½ to 2 | 4½d. to | 1 | 6 |
| Wood for firing (280 lbs.) | 2½ | 1 | 9 | |
| ” broken, in small quantities (280 lbs.) | 5 | 3 | 9 | |
| Loaf-sugar, English (per lb.) | ¾ to 1 | 6d. to | 0 | 9 |
| Charcoal, sifted (14 lbs.) | ½ to 1 | 4½d. to | 0 | 9 |
| ” unsifted ” | ¼ to ½ | 2d. to | 0 | 4½ |
| Grapes ” | 7/20 to 15/20 | 3d. to | 0 | 7 |
| Dip candles ” | 4 | 3 | 0 | |
| Commonest oil for servants (14 lbs.) | 1½ | 1 | 1½ | |
| Bread (14 lbs.) | 1 to 1½ | 9d. to | 1 | 1 |
The cost of horse-keep, including grooms’ wages, shoeing, etc., is from 9d. to 1s. a day; this is supposing several are kept.
[17] I use this word for want of a better.
[18] On March 30th I left Erzeroum at nine A.M., reached Hassan Kaleh, twenty-four miles, at three P.M.; started again at four P.M. (all snow), reached Balakoohi, where a storm compelled us to halt at seven P.M. Slept there.
March 31st.—Started at five A.M. for Kharassan, twenty-five miles; arrived at half-past nine; made a detour of ten miles on account of water. Started at half-past eleven on same horses; stopped at a village twenty-four miles off, name unknown; horses dead beat; road—water, mud, and thawing snow—twenty-four miles.
April 1st.—Started at five A.M.; arrived at Moollah Suleiman, eighteen miles (same sort of road), at ten A.M.; left at half-past eleven for Kadikeesa, twenty miles; arrived at five P.M.; went on through snow till nine P.M. to a village, twelve miles only; halted. Slept in a sheep-shed full of tics.
April 2nd.—Started at six A.M.; arrived at three P.M. at Desardūn, thirty-six miles. Here I saw Mount Ararat. Road very bad, from melting snow. Arrived at Kizzil Deeza, twenty-four miles (a wretched hole), at eight P.M.