|Length of lead traces.| The length of the leader’s traces should depend on the length of the horses and also on their action. They should be as short as possible, but not so short as to make the wheeler appear to be stepping on the leader. Three feet from nose to croup seems to be about the right distance when the leader is in draught.
|Hooking up lead traces.| While on the subject of the leader’s traces it may be well to point out that the best way to hook them up, when putting to or taking out the leader, is to pass the end of the trace from outside under and over itself just in front of the bearing-strap, and then fasten the hook to the ring of the hames.
|How to fasten up lead reins.| As regards the fastening up of the lead reins, it is usual to take a loop in the end of the rein and pass it through the terrets of both pad and hames, so adjusting it that no spare end hangs down by itself. The loop will be about the right length if the end of the rein is brought up to the terret on the pad, the end of the loop thus made being then put through the terrets as described above.
|Driving bits.| The best bits for all-round work are either the Liverpool or the elbow-bits, |Wheeler’s bit.| but the wheeler’s should be made with a light bar across the bottom of the cheek pieces. This prevents the wheeler from catching the lead rein under the end of the cheek piece, which constantly happens if he is inclined to shake his head about, and has the effect of pulling the leader sharply to one side. |Bit catching in rein.| It is, moreover, very difficult to get the rein free when caught in this way without getting down. I think, as a rule, it is a good plan to pass the lead reins through the loops of the bearing-rein of the wheeler, instead of through D’s fixed on his |Lead reins through bearing-rein loops.| head-collar or throat-lash. The loops should hang down about four inches, and be quite loose, so that the wheeler can toss his head to a considerable extent without violently jerking the leader in the mouth. It is unnecessary to pass the reins through the terrets on the hames, as bringing them straight back to those on the pad gives a better lead.
Of course, if the wheeler habitually shakes his head about very much, either up or down, or both, then a martingale and a bearing-rein must be put on, which will effectually stop his little game.
|Lead reins never to be buckled.| Never drive with the lead reins buckled, as, if the leader breaks either the traces, or the bar (if he has one), by kicking or falling, the reins will run through the terrets, and the horse can then get clear away, and a worse accident be avoided. |Leader’s tail over rein.| Should the leader get his tail over a rein, a good way of getting it clear is to pull the wheeler well across to the side on which the rein is fast, and the leader rather over to the opposite side, slacking at the same time the fixed rein as much as possible. By this manœuvre the rein will often come loose. If it does not, try hitting the leader on the quarter with the whip, when he will probably swish his tail and allow the rein to drop.
|Tandem whip.| The whip is generally a rather lighter and shorter one than that used for four horses, though the same can perfectly well be used. The usual lengths of stick and lash are about five and ten feet respectively. As to the correct method of holding and handling it the reader must kindly refer to a former chapter, where it is fully discussed. The principles are obviously exactly the same.
FIG. 39.—LONGEING WITH LONG REINS.