Excursions in the mountains of Ronda and Granada, with characteristic sketches of the inhabitants of southern Spain, vol. 1/2

by C. Rochfort‏ Scott

The road down the side of the mountain (in its windings upwards of a mile) is far from good, and it is only tolerable after gaining the plain, until it passes by a ford to the left bank of the Guadaljorce, when it becomes practicable for carriages all the way to Malaga.

The course of this river (Guada al jars—River of the Guard) is most eccentric. It rises considerably to the eastward of the city of Antequera, almost, it may be said, on the margin of the Genil, and running, during the early part of its course, nearly parallel to that river, seems, like it, to be directing itself to the Guadalquivír. But, after following this westerly course for upwards of thirty miles, it turns abruptly from the level country, in a southerly direction; pierces its way through a most intricate country to Alora; washes the base of the rock on which that ancient city is perched; and then, entering the vale of Malaga, winds round to the eastward, fertilizing that spacious plain; and discharges itself into the Mediterranean:—thus, from its source to its mouth, describing a perfect semicircle.

In the centre of the extensive vale of Malaga, the volume of the Guadaljorce is increased by the junction of the Rio Grande—a far less considerable stream, which comes down from the mountains encircling Toloz, Monda, and other Roman-Moorish fortresses, that guard the passes on the western side of the plain.

Carter, describing this latter river from its source to its embouchure, states it to be the Sigila of the Romans. Should this be the case, (though it seems probable that the larger stream of the two would have carried its name to the sea) we have yet to learn by what name the Guadaljorce was known in former days.—I mention this, as I shall hereafter refer to the subject in speaking of the Salsus, which, it strikes me forcibly, was the name given formerly to the upper portion of the Guadaljorce—i. e. before it was lost in the rocky defiles to the north of Alora.

The Guadaljorce—jore—joz—and—quivirejo, (for it is equally known by all those names) runs in a wide, pebbly bed, and is readily enough forded at all seasons, excepting when heavy rains happen to have caused it to overflow its banks. Under any circumstances, however, Malaga may be reached by making a détour to the westward; crossing the Rio Grande at Casa Palma, and from thence, following the road by Cartama, down the right bank of the Guadaljorce, until arrived abreast of the village of Aljaurinejo, where a bridge presents itself.

The direct Road from Casarabonela crosses the River, previous to its confluence with the Rio Grande; and about a mile beyond the ford, reaches the Venta de Cartáma. This is often made the resting-place between Ronda and Malaga. Now, as I write with the view of tempting others to ride after me, I feel called upon, despite the poor accommodation of Casarabonela, to advise future travellers to put up with it; for certainly a more wretched hovel than the Venta of Cartáma I never looked into. A single glance produces an irritation of the skin, and a sympathetic restlessness of the fingers.

Proceeding onwards, a view of the town of Cartáma is obtained on the right. It lies somewhat removed from the bank of the Guadaljorce, upon the north side of the Sierra Gibalgalía. The harvest of statues, pavements, coins, &c. gathered amongst the ruins of this ancient Roman city, has been very abundant. A few years back it possessed a Forum, Porticoes, and Temples, in a very perfect state. But, though the Spaniards talk much of their antiquities, they trouble themselves but little about their preservation; and Cartáma contains now scarcely any thing worthy of note.

From the Venta de Cartáma to Malaga the road is practicable for carriages to an extent of thirteen miles and a half; making the total distance from Casarabonela twenty-five miles;—from Ronda, forty-five.

CHAPTER IX.

UNPREPOSSESSING APPEARANCE OF MALAGA—DREAD OF YELLOW FEVER—THE ALAMEDA—DERIVATION OF THE CITY’S NAME, AND SKETCH OF ITS HISTORY—THE GIBRALFARO AND ALCAZABA—CATHEDRAL—CIGAR MANUFACTORY—CALCULATION OF THE SUPPLY AND CONSUMPTION OF CIGARS IN SPAIN—MALAGA FIGURES—POPULATION—TRADE—WINE—HARBOUR—SOCIETY—VISIT TO EL RETIRO—THE FANDANGO AND CACHUCHA.