Excursions in the mountains of Ronda and Granada, with characteristic sketches of the inhabitants of southern Spain, vol. 1/2

by C. Rochfort‏ Scott

Most of the leading men of the city have country houses, to which they retire with their families during the heat of summer. One of the most delightful of these sin cuidados,[127] is “El Retiro de San Tomas,” situated at the foot of the mountain range that bounds the vale of Malaga to the west, and distant about eight miles from the city. This charming retreat is said to occupy the site of a villa built by one of the Moslem sovereigns of Malaga, and destroyed by the Spaniards in one of the devastating inroads made upon the fertile valley of the Guadaljorce, in the time of Ferdinand and Isabella. The present edifice, erected shortly after the kingdom of Granada was annexed to the crown of Spain, was also a royal seat, and so continued to be until the time of Philip V., who bestowed it upon an illegitimate son, then bishop of the diocese; from whom, he being of the order of San Domingo, it received its present name, El Retiro de San Tomas. At his death it went to the Dominican convent, of which he was a member, but has since passed into other hands, and, at the period of which I write, was occupied by Mr. Roose, the consulgeneral of Prussia, who, in favour of a letter of introduction with which I had been furnished, gave my friends and self a most courteous reception.

The Retiro is celebrated for the rare productions and luxuriance of its gardens, the fragrance of its orange and citron groves, the splendour of its jets d’eau, and the beauty of the scenery it commands in all directions.

After seeing all the external sights of the place, we were introduced to one of a much more novel character in Spain, viz., a large circle of ladies, assembled round a steaming urn, in the fragrant enjoyment of a “cup of tea.” We needed but little pressing to join in the imbibition of the refreshing beverage, at all times acceptable, but especially in this country, where, excepting in an apothecary’s shop, the cherished leaves of the invaluable shrub are seldom to be seen. From the salon we were conducted to a secluded part of the grounds, where another agreeable surprise awaited us, the peasantry of the neighbourhood, decked out in their holiday suits, having been assembled there, to do honour to the patron saint of the village, by belabouring the gazon vert with an interminable fandango.

The natives of the south of Spain are passionately fond of this dance, which, like a Scotch reel, is usually kept up as long as fingers or lungs can be found to mark time for the exhibitors. A few notes thrummed on the guitar are quite sufficient to set a fandango on foot; or, in default of that instrument, a monotonous ditty chaunted by one of the bystanders answers the purpose.

Sometimes, when the vocalist is a gracioso,[128] his part of the performance is by far the most entertaining, as he will improvise couplets on the various gymnasts, who, from time to time, relieve each other at the laborious amusement, seasoning his verses plentifully with Andalusian wit.

This dance is certainly of Oriental parentage. It is the same, in fact, as that of the Ghawazies of Egypt, but clothed with South of Europe decency. The balancing movements of the arms are precisely the same in both, and the contortions of the body differ but slightly, though the Spanish dancers have more regard for decorum than the tattoued-faced jezebels of the East. In the Fandango also, the co-operation of the feet is at times much more active, affording a wide field for the display of personal activity, if offering but small opportunity for the exhibition of grace. In the end it becomes a most fatiguing affair, either to witness or take part in; and no one, without personal experience, can form an idea of the serious engagement he enters into, by inviting a fair Malagueña to stand up to un poquito de Fandango; the Caballero exposing himself to much badinage should he be forced to give in before the lady.

The Cachucha is a refined species of Fandango; but it is seldom witnessed in Spain, except on the stage. It is doubtless a very graceful dance, but, as performed in its native land, tant soit peu libre.

CHAPTER X.

CHOICE OF ROUTES BETWEEN MALAGA AND GRANADA—ROAD TO VELEZ MALAGA—OBSERVATIONS ON THAT TOWN—CONTINUATION OF JOURNEY TO GRANADA—FERTILE VALLEY OF THE RIVER VELEZ—VENTA OF ALCAUCIN—ZAFARAYA MOUNTAINS—ALHAMA—DESCRIPTION OF THAT PLACE AND OF ITS THERMAL BATHS—CACIN—VENTA OF HUELMA—SALT-PANS OF LA MALA—FIRST VIEW OF GRANADA AND ITS VEGA—SITUATION OF THE CITY—ITS SALUBRITY—ANCIENT NAMES—BECOMES THE CAPITAL OF THE LAST MOSLEM KINGDOM OF SPAIN—FINE APPROACH TO THE MODERN CITY—IT IS THE MOST PURELY MOORISH TOWN IN SPAIN—CAUSE OF THE DECADENCE OF THE ARTS UNDER THE MOORS OF GRANADA, AND OF THE EASY CONQUEST OF THE CITY—DESTRUCTION OF THE MOORISH LITERATURE ON THE CAPTURE OF THE CITY BY THE SPANIARDS.

SEVERAL roads present themselves between Malaga and Granada, each (as the Dover-packet skippers of the olden time were wont to say of their vessels) possessing a peculiar claim to the traveller’s preference.