FIG 3
FIG 4
The top and bottom cylinder-covers, with the stuffing-box, come next. Screw a piece of hard wood on the end of your lathe mandrel, turn it down to about a quarter of an inch less in diameter than the flanges of your cylinder, make a small hole for the stuffing-box to be driven in, as in [Fig. 3]. You can now turn the edge and side—that next the cylinder. The projecting part A is to be the exact size of the diameter of cylinder. When this is done, take it out and place it in another chuck, and drill and turn the stuffing-box out, and screw it to receive the gland ([Fig. 4]).
Now chuck the top cover and turn it down to size. The piston is a casting, and has to be turned in the lathe to fit the cylinder, and a groove run round it to hold the greased cotton to make it steam-tight. Whilst in the lathe drill a hole in the centre, and tap it to receive the piston-rod, which you can make out of steel wire. Then pass one end through the stuffing-box on cylinder-cover and screw it on the cross-head J ([Fig. 1]), having first filed it up quite square and true and finished it off with emery. Now take the standards B ([Fig. 1]), and finish them up with a file in the same way, and be careful that the insides forming the guides for cross-heads are quite true. We can now make the lagging for cylinder. Get a piece of mahogany the length of the outside circumference of cylinder and the width of the distance between flanges of same. Then plane it down to about an eighth of an inch and score it with a penknife every eighth of an inch down its width; it will then bend round the cylinder, and you can fasten it on by a couple of brass bands, screwing the ends down near the slide-valve case.
We will next tackle the steam-ports in the cylinder B ([Fig. 2]). They are simply two holes drilled side by side until they reach the openings C C ([Fig. 2]) in the casting; they must not be drilled any farther.
FIG 5
FIG 6